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  • mrbill5491
    replied
    Okay, gonna tackle the paint problem this weekend. Hopefully I can sort this out.

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  • mrbill5491
    replied
    Okay, think I found some. Is this the scotch brite we be discussing?

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  • nvr2old
    replied
    Originally posted by mrbill5491 View Post
    Couldn't find the gray scotchbrite mentioned so I was lightly block wet sanding with 2000 finishing grit and the roughness is coming out pretty good. I'm a bit gun shy about getting too aggressive with it.
    As mentioned, 2000 grit is too fine. That grit is specifically for finish sanding before the polishing step. You need some tooth for the new clear coats to adhere to. 800 at the very least. 600 would be better. Use the sandpaper wet, and it'll prep your surface nicely. Stay away from the pinstripes for the most part..just scuff them a bit.

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    Originally posted by mrbill5491 View Post
    I've checked O'Riley's, Auto zone, Napa, and Pep boys, they don't have the grey scotch brite. Even the local auto paint store didn't have it, the guy didn't even know what I was talking about.

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  • mrbill5491
    replied
    Originally posted by Nessism View Post
    2000 is too fine to prep for a recoat. That stuff is to knock down dust nibs and flatten orange peel before buffing. You need that gray scotchbrite, or 600/800 grit or so to prep for the next clear layer.
    I've checked O'Riley's, Auto zone, Napa, and Pep boys, they don't have the grey scotch brite. Even the local auto paint store didn't have it, the guy didn't even know what I was talking about. All I found was the 3M sanding sponge 320 grit.

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  • Nessism
    replied
    2000 is too fine to prep for a recoat. That stuff is to knock down dust nibs and flatten orange peel before buffing. You need that gray scotchbrite, or 600/800 grit or so to prep for the next clear layer.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrbill5491
    replied
    Couldn't find the gray scotchbrite mentioned so I was lightly block wet sanding with 2000 finishing grit and the roughness is coming out pretty good. I'm a bit gun shy about getting too aggressive with it.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrbill5491
    replied
    Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
    Nothing in the TDS on recoat times.


    So I'm thinking after 3~4 days... You should be good.
    Not really, just says to apply two medium coats at first and to wait 5-7 minutes between coats of which I did or thought I did. Then let sit overnight or longer and do it again. That's when our dust storms got in the way. We tacked the parts down before we did anything else. Doesn't help when there is a lumber yard is next door and has a dirt lot and up wind to the shop
    Last edited by mrbill5491; 04-30-2013, 03:01 PM.

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    Originally posted by mrbill5491 View Post
    3-4 days for the clear.

    , Clear coat selectclear 2K 498-00 and the activator 2K 483-78 mid-temp, multi panel and overall clear
    Nothing in the TDS on recoat times.


    So I'm thinking after 3~4 days... You should be good.

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  • mrbill5491
    replied
    Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
    How much time has elapsed since you painted these pieces and what is the product number of the clear you used?
    About two weeks for the paint and 3-4 days for the clear.
    Painted on two weekends, had to wait because of some high winds and dust here. Clear coat was mid week and this weekend. Again wind and dust. Temps were 70s to high 70s, humidity never went over 12%.

    Dupont Nason Base Coat type IF, Reducer Ful-Base 441-21 medium reducer, Clear coat selectclear 2K 498-00 and the activator 2K 483-78 mid-temp, multi panel and overall clear

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    How much time has elapsed since you painted these pieces and what is the product number of the clear you used?

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  • mrbill5491
    replied
    Originally posted by Nessism View Post
    There is NO NEED to start over. Gently scuff with scotchbrite, keeping off edges so you don't cut through, and respray the clear. Hose on one light coat, followed by two medium-heavy coats. Worst case is you color sand the clear and polish, and/or respray one last time to lay down a nice smooth finished layer.
    Okay, so use a scotchbrite and gently work it out. Probably will try this later this afternoon after work.

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  • Nessism
    replied
    There is NO NEED to start over. Gently scuff with scotchbrite, keeping off edges so you don't cut through, and respray the clear. Hose on one light coat, followed by two medium-heavy coats. Worst case is you color sand the clear and polish, and/or respray one last time to lay down a nice smooth finished layer. I did the later on this tank: after two coats of clear the tank was rubbed smooth with gray scotchbrite, followed by pinstripes, and the final layers of clear. Didn't touch it afterwards.

    Last edited by Nessism; 04-30-2013, 11:53 AM.

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  • mrbill5491
    replied
    Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
    http://www.hotrodders.com/articles/spraygun.html

    Read what the man (Brian) has to say about tuning a gun...
    Well, lesson learned I suppose. Being this was my first time painting, was dreading it to begin with, guess I had the wrong mind set for it. I'll feel bad if I need to regroup, resand and start over. My girl friend did a great job on the pin stripping. Took her about 4 hours to to do it. She wanted it to come out as perfect as she could.

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    Originally posted by mrbill5491 View Post
    3-4 inches on the clear coat hmmmm.
    IT ALL DEPENDS ON THE GUN!
    Don't go at it willy-nilly.

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