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JB Weld and filler neck sealing- looking for a photo

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    #16
    Originally posted by nvr2old View Post
    Actually, that would defeat the purpose..you'd then have another exposed paint edge for the fumes to get under. It's not to fill the seam as much as it is to seal the raw paint edge. That's why it's the very last step. I always tried to make it look as unobtrusive as possible and with the gas cap on, it's totally invisible.
    I see, you are using the JB weld over paint and clear to protect the entire transition to the bare metal of the filler neck. Interesting

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      #17
      Originally posted by posplayr View Post
      I see, you are using the JB weld over paint and clear to protect the entire transition to the bare metal of the filler neck. Interesting
      Yes, that's the reason I'm looking to do the same. As beautiful as the paint job is, there is an exposed edge where the filler neck rolls over. I think it'll be okay to leave it as is, but a little insurance goes a long way.
      '83 GS650G
      '83 GS550es (didn't like the colours in the 80's, but they've grown on me)

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        #18
        Originally posted by BigD_83 View Post
        Yes, that's the reason I'm looking to do the same. As beautiful as the paint job is, there is an exposed edge where the filler neck rolls over. I think it'll be okay to leave it as is, but a little insurance goes a long way.
        I can pretty much guarantee that if you don't seal that paint edge off, below the top of the bare metal neck, the fumes will soften and then bubble up the paint all around and beyond the filler, then it's an expensive re-do paint job. This method is a very easy, and very inexpensive bit of insurance. Believe me, I learned the hard way..
        1979 GS1000S,

        1982 Honda CX500 Turbo, 1982 Honda MB5 w/CR80 motor, 1977 Honda "nekid" Goldwing, 1976 Honda CB550F cafe', 1972 Honda XL250 cafe'

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          #19
          Originally posted by nvr2old View Post
          I can pretty much guarantee that if you don't seal that paint edge off, below the top of the bare metal neck, the fumes will soften and then bubble up the paint all around and beyond the filler, then it's an expensive re-do paint job. This method is a very easy, and very inexpensive bit of insurance. Believe me, I learned the hard way..
          Not sure that is absolutely true. You can see from the picture of my filler neck that there is no evidence of lifting and that paint job is going on 3 years. I did make a point to retape the neck for my clear coat so that there was plenty of clear over the edge of the color coat. My guess is that at least PPG has a strong adhesion to the roughed up filler neck sufficient to block gas liquid or fumes formed getting under and to the paint

          My first step was to tape off above the seam but well below the top of the filler neck , then after color coats removed the tape and reapplied it almost all the way to the top of the neck. I think I left the top bare so that any scuffing from the filler cap would be against metal rather than the clear.
          Last edited by posplayr; 07-17-2013, 12:22 PM.

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            #20
            Originally posted by nvr2old View Post
            I can pretty much guarantee that if you don't seal that paint edge off, below the top of the bare metal neck, the fumes will soften and then bubble up the paint all around and beyond the filler, then it's an expensive re-do paint job. This method is a very easy, and very inexpensive bit of insurance. Believe me, I learned the hard way..
            Not sure that is absolutely true. You can see from the picture of my filler neck that there is no evidence of lifting and that paint job is going on 3 years. I did make a point to retape the neck for my clear coat so that there was plenty of clear over the edge of the color coat. My guess is that at least PPG has a strong adhesion to the roughed up filler neck sufficient to block gas liquid or fumes formed getting under and to the paint.

            Equally as important here is to make sure your filler neck vent hole is not plugged. For those that don't know it is a small hole inside the neck.

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              #21
              You're right. You've been fortunate to be one of the few that've had no problems, but so many that re-paint, have. Just saying it's a good thing to do to help insure that the problem doesn't happen. The ones that do experience the lifting seem to have painted the entire neck and that's where the problems usually happen. If you leave the paint line at the bottom of the bare neck, it may be OK, but..
              1979 GS1000S,

              1982 Honda CX500 Turbo, 1982 Honda MB5 w/CR80 motor, 1977 Honda "nekid" Goldwing, 1976 Honda CB550F cafe', 1972 Honda XL250 cafe'

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by nvr2old View Post
                You're right. You've been fortunate to be one of the few that've had no problems, but so many that re-paint, have. Just saying it's a good thing to do to help insure that the problem doesn't happen. The ones that do experience the lifting seem to have painted the entire neck and that's where the problems usually happen. If you leave the paint line at the bottom of the bare neck, it may be OK, but..
                This is what I am afraid of. I didn't post an image of it yet, but the filler hole was taped off across the top and not at the bottom of the neck, so I think I need to sand it back a bit, then apply the sealer.
                '83 GS650G
                '83 GS550es (didn't like the colours in the 80's, but they've grown on me)

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