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I read the " Make it brighter " entry... But I think my problem is a little deeper. I just returned from a trip to Hollister and found that my half moon plugs for the cams were leaking. The oil leaked onto the fins of the engine and burned on. I was able to get it off with engine de-greaser, a brush and a Dremel. BUT some of the de-greaser dripped onto the aluminum engine covers. I now have, what looks like, etched stains ( oxidation ) on the covers. I tried polishing over the stains and the covers shine great. The problem is that I now have shiny stains also. Any suggestions on how to remove the stains?
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Try 1000, 1500, 2000 grit sandpaper. The oxidation is probably not very deep. -
there are a number of different metal polishes on the market. Tarn-x, noxon, mothers, just to mention a few. While most don't recommend using them on aluminum, I usually do anyway with good results. I figured that as bad as my covers were, they couldn't possibly hurt. You will need to rub untill you have no fingerprints left, and then you're about half way there. Lots of hard rubbin', but the stains will come out. My covers had so much oxidation they looked like roadmaps of georgia, now they look like chrome, but I have lots of blisters, and very few fingerprints left!! hope this helps, Dominick.........Comment
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Thanks. I'll give both ideas a try and see which works best.Comment
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If you can get to a bench grinder use a polishing wheel and rouge. Thats what I did and while you may stand there a while polishing them out the shine will last longer because they will be alot smoother and it will save your fingers.Comment
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TIN FOIL BUNCHED UP INA BALL....HEY IT WORKS!!!Comment
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I know I am new to all this, but believe it or not I bought some high temperature chrome (that's right I said chrome) spray paint. I removed the covers and painted them. It actually comes out a perfect shiny aluminum look. And the high temperature paint withstands the heat of the engine. It looks like brand new. Takes forever to dry, but well worth it honestly. The look is more of a powdercoated silver look. Very nice. I can take some pics if anybody wants to see.Comment
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Put a shop light close to that paint and it will dry faster. That stuff likes to have a very warm surface when it goes on seems to dry better. If you take the 2000 degree (I think thats what it is) an paint your engine with it and then cover it with the clear coat you get almost exactly the original motor color when new. Going to strip and repaint mine when riding season is over.Comment
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Soooooooooooooooooooo......JayB, just WHEN is riding season over?
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Well for me here in Colorado it's ususlly around the end of October when SKI Season starts.Comment
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Update...
NOTHING WORKED!!!! I still had shiny stains. Until I felt I had nothing to loose. I started with a good cleaning and 600 grit sand paper. Viola! The stains are gone. But so is that mirror shine. Oh well, that will be my winter project. I'll hit those covers with 1500 grit sandpaper (maybe even go to 2500) then use the polishing compounds. I'll use that chrome paint idea on my case guards. The guy that painted those things knew what he was doing and didn't want that paint to come off. And it won't without going through the staining problems on those also.Comment
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I talked to the previous owner of my bike about the case guard paint. He said that he used an epoxy type paint. That stuff is bullet proof. Unless some one has any ideas of how to get this stuff off, I'm going to paint over it. The black case guards stand out way too much against the, now shiny, aluminum.Comment
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Something that I have found that works really well is using #000000 (6 awt) wire wool with Mothers chrome polish. It takes a while but it has taken just about every stain I have ever had right out of the metal. Just continue doing it over and over, and gradually the stain should fade away. Another thing you could try, at your own risk, is paint thinner.
I read an article just yesterday about polishing and refinishing aluminum cases on bikes. It suggested using paint thinner to the extent that it starts to bubble the clear coat then wipe off with warm soap and water. Don't want to leave on long enough to eat through the clear coat and then into the aluminum itself.
Here is a link you can check out: http://cbx.iperweb.com./mcy84-1.html
Hope this helps.Comment
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I'd like to see photosOriginally posted by Flamedtempter
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Jay, you mention removing the cover and I have a couple of questions for you if you don't mind. If I take the clutch cable off and get the screws out what's next? Does the clutch axle hook to anything or just up against something? Are there any parts which will want to come loose and fall out? Am I going to need to order gaskets ahead of time or do the covers usually come off easily?Originally posted by Jay B
I have a high speed buffer which I have used on mostly jewelry polishing so this sounds like the easiest way to get the best results. The pads are about 7 inches. It has a variety of fine wire brush wheels also.
I also have various buffing wheels for a drill. My drill tops out at about 1400 rpm. I have the rouge already for either. Would the use of one of the wire brushes in either the high speed buffer or the drill give be an advantage over the initial sanding, or would the sanding be needed at all?
My final question is, What do you know about brite dip? My son works at a metal plating company here in town. Actually, H. D. is one of their bigger customers in the chroming department. Anyway, he says he can strip the pieces and brite dip them for me for free. I had him strip a couple pieces for a 1976 Suzuki TS400 and they looked fresh out of the mold and ready for painting. He works the aluminum line. Will brite dipping them look pretty near to original or will it stand out too much. I know, a lot of questions, but doing it once is the ultimate challenge.Comment
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