Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

DA paint buffer advice

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16

    All the bits I've gotten done so far.





    Not a paint job up to nvr2old standards but I'm not Larry either.I just take all the advice I can and do my best.

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by nvr2old View Post
      It's really as simple as the heat "melts" the finish to a point that it smooths out and shines.
      This I didn't know. I thought that polishing compounds smoothed the surface until it was smooth enough to reflect light, and that it was wax that melts with heat, fills pores and surface imperfections then came to a shine.

      What type of paint responds to heat by melting and shining up? I've always been confused about the difference between 'compounding' and 'polishing'.

      Thanks,

      S.

      Comment


        #18
        Urethanes are what respond to heat. Lacquers and enamels do the same but not quite as efficiently as the urethanes. Compounding is a much more course application with a wool pad. Polishing is bringing up the final shine with a fine compound then a soft pad and a swirl remover, followed by wax..which shouldn't be applied to fresh paint for at least 90 days. There are finishes designed to take the place of wax for that amount of time and don't contain any silicons that would trap air, thus, not allowing the paint to breathe and cure properly.
        1979 GS1000S,

        1982 Honda CX500 Turbo, 1982 Honda MB5 w/CR80 motor, 1977 Honda "nekid" Goldwing, 1976 Honda CB550F cafe', 1972 Honda XL250 cafe'

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by nvr2old View Post
          Polishing is bringing up the final shine with a fine compound then a soft pad and a swirl remover, followed by wax..which shouldn't be applied to fresh paint for at least 90 days. There are finishes designed to take the place of wax for that amount of time and don't contain any silicons that would trap air, thus, not allowing the paint to breathe and cure properly.
          Said by an expert!!
          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1352313915
          1979 GS1000

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by SVSooke View Post
            All the bits I've gotten done so far.

            Not a paint job up to nvr2old standards but I'm not Larry either.I just take all the advice I can and do my best.
            Those parts look WAY better now. Nicely done. Might hit em with the yellow pad and fine compound a little more, followed by the swirl remover and black pad again, and then you should be good to go. I'm proud of you for sticking to it, man..way to go
            1979 GS1000S,

            1982 Honda CX500 Turbo, 1982 Honda MB5 w/CR80 motor, 1977 Honda "nekid" Goldwing, 1976 Honda CB550F cafe', 1972 Honda XL250 cafe'

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by nvr2old View Post
              Those parts look WAY better now. Nicely done. Might hit em with the yellow pad and fine compound a little more, followed by the swirl remover and black pad again, and then you should be good to go. I'm proud of you for sticking to it, man..way to go
              Awwww shucks,I stick to it because I have no choice.A few bits need to be resanded.Look better in pics than in life.Need a new drill,my old Craftsman tore up it's rear bearing.Bought it cheap used so I don't feel to bad.

              Comment

              Working...
              X