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My first all rattle can paint job

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    My first all rattle can paint job

    If you read my earlier thread about masking decals and types of mask you'll see I changed my paint scheme completely. This is my first side cover done all with rattle cans. Just needs the top pinstripe touched up and the clear coat still. (chrome isn't attached just resting there to see how it would look)
    colours are
    General Motors Quasar Blue Metallic
    Nissan Motors Frost Silver Metallic
    Universal Black Metallic.

    Thoughts?




    #2
    More importantly. WHY IS THIS HAPPENING!!!

    I've sanded it down and it keeps happening. Whats going on? Its only around the edges of wherever I sand back down to the original base plastic.

    Comment


      #3
      What did you clean the part with before you sanded it? Did you sand all the old paint off or did you prime over the old paint?

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        #4
        Is that a reaction between laquer and paint? Not sure. We have some real good painters on here, they will know.

        That blue piece will look nice when you finish it up.
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

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          #5
          Originally posted by mdunn View Post
          What did you clean the part with before you sanded it? Did you sand all the old paint off or did you prime over the old paint?
          It was bare plastic when I got it. I sanded the plastic down with 80 and then 400 to give it some tooth and then primer. Wiped it with a tack cloth before I shot the first coat of primer. Then later I painted a stencil on and didn't like it. Sanded it off and reshot the primer for the paint I decided on and this happened to the primer. It's getting less and less now. I think it will be gone tomorrow. But took me 4 or 5 coats of primer to get it to lessen.

          Comment


            #6
            The solvents in the paint are getting under the old paint. You need a sealer over the old paint before applying the new. Sometimes you can dust on several really light (dry) layers in an attempt to bury the old paint, but that doesn't always work. Another option is sanding off all the old paint of course.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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              #7
              Maybe a base layer of krylon fusion then go crazy over that?

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                #8
                Sounds like the edge of the old paint is reacting with the solvent in the primer. Wipe down with wax and grease remover (acetone works too). Then sand with 400. Then wipe again with wax and grease remover. Then spray sealer. Then primer. The sealer will keep solvents from migrating. Also, epoxy primer is a better barrier so some painters don't feel the need to use sealer when using epoxy primer. If you don't want the extra expense, you could try a few light dry coats of primer before the wet coat. Let us know if you solve your problem.

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                  #9
                  The plastic is covered in very fine scratches, allowing the solvents to run under the edges of the finish. More cure time between coats, much lighter coats, and don't break through anymore!

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by MatBirch View Post
                    The plastic is covered in very fine scratches, allowing the solvents to run under the edges of the finish. More cure time between coats, much lighter coats, and don't break through anymore!
                    Thanks for your and others advice. I tried the super light coats approach and managed to make it all disappear.

                    Steep learning curve with this painting stuff. Its more work than I ever thought. But so rewarding when you see the finished product.

                    I have both side covers done and ready for clearcoat. The tank and helmet are both primed.

                    Quick question again. The tank has two very small dents in the top. Because of the finished high gloss I know they will be really visible. I'm planning on just filling them with some JB-Weld and sanding it down smooth. Is this advisable or am I going to regret it? Is there a better method?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      JB Weld???
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment


                        #12
                        There are plenty of good fillers made expressly for this purpose. JB Weld isn't one of them.
                        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                        Life is too short to ride an L.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                          There are plenty of good fillers made expressly for this purpose. JB Weld isn't one of them.
                          Do you suggest bondo?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            yes bondo, same as what is used on cars or any other metal requireing fill in....

                            .

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by StubbornDutchman View Post
                              Do you suggest bondo?
                              It's one of them, there are others better but anything would work. Bondo is fine for little dents.
                              With JB Weld I don't think you would ever get it to smooth out, and if you decided to remove it and start over, well good luck with that.
                              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                              Life is too short to ride an L.

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