How to polish engine case on my GS

[Nessism]

It does look really good. Are you happy with the Glisten Clear as far as how it holds up.?

So far so good but that bike is not ridden regularly. The paint is pretty brittle. I think clear powder coat may be worth exploring.

[mikerophone]

I think clear powder coat may be worth exploring.

Subbed. I do a lot of work with a local powder coater and get a decent price, but they are weeks out and also like to have the ability to do my own stuff.

Are there other clear coats that have been recommended?

Steve - do you just re-buff annually, as needed or do you clear coat yours? I

wonder if the less smooth surfaces/more matte like factory type finish like Ed's (without a clear coat would hold up better in the long run or if the mirror like finish would?

Here's mine from last year and I rode the bike yesterday (59 degrees who-hoo!!!) and it doesn't look as good as it did then:

[IMG][/IMG]

Here's a Roloc type wheel only with a once over on my VC, still needs polishing, but similar to the engine in the background it was DINGY and crusty:
[IMG][/IMG]

[Steve]

Steve - do you just re-buff annually, as needed or do you clear coat yours?

No clear coat, just a little elbow grease now and then.

.

[trevor]

Yes, don't clear coat! It will eventually do the same thing (yellow, chipping and fading) again. Once the parts are done it takes very little effort to keep them looking nice.

[Big T]

Hello out there I am new to this forum just looking for a little help. I have a 1981 GS750e it is a really great bike but it has some oxidation on the engine covers. I think it still has that original factory coating that came on it.I was looking for a way to polish that up a bit and make it look nicer. A friend of mine was thinking very fine steel wool but was not that sure.If anyone has a product in mind or a process please let me know. thanks Much Brian

While all the information above is correct, you need to chemically strip the part first and see what you actually have as a surface. The factory coating can appear really bad until you strip it. Use aircraft aluminum stripper, which is available at most auto parts stores in a big blue spray can.

Once you can see what the aluminum actually looks like, you can take it from there. I've had parts where the aluminum just needed the sisal wheel and black after getting stripped, others needed bead blasting to start.

[1948man]

Subbed. I do a lot of work with a local powder coater and get a decent price, but they are weeks out and also like to have the ability to do my own stuff.

Are there other clear coats that have been recommended?

Steve - do you just re-buff annually, as needed or do you clear coat yours? I

wonder if the less smooth surfaces/more matte like factory type finish like Ed's (without a clear coat would hold up better in the long run or if the mirror like finish would?

Here's mine from last year and I rode the bike yesterday (59 degrees who-hoo!!!) and it doesn't look as good as it did then:

[IMG][/IMG]

Here's a Roloc type wheel only with a once over on my VC, still needs polishing, but similar to the engine in the background it was DINGY and crusty:
[IMG][/IMG]

http://www.eastwood.com/exoarmour.html

Here's a new clear coat. Haven't been able to find a review of it anywhere. From everything I've been able to learn, doing without the clear coat is probably best for now.

[mikerophone]

If the consensus is to not re-clearcoat then that's what I'll be doing. A little re-buff now and then isn't a big deal I was just curious of people had success with a clear lasting for years and years.

[btwilson123]

Thanks for your help I will give it a whirl. Brian

[GS1000S]

I came across a video on u-tube about stripping clear off of aluminum and thought I'd give it a try and it worked great on my fork tubes. Wrap the part in an old towel and soak with lacquer thinner and seal up in a garbage or compactor bag. I left it in for 24 hrs. or so and all the clearcoat had lifted and just pretty much fell off the tubes.

Pat

[limeex2]

Lots of good info! Ok,so no clear coat seems to be the consensus,but what are peoples ideas on cleaning up crankcases?Covers that are removable are fairly easy to clean up and maintain,but how would I go about cleaning up crusty,oil soaked crankcase,cyl and head and keep it looking good?

[azr]

I did these covers with the sisal wheel and black cutting compound. Followed with POR-15 Glisten clear. Came pretty close to replicating the factory look.

I have to redo some of mine this season, think I'll do this. Really like the look and it's less work to touch up. You're doing the forks the same aren't you?

[Vloukole]

That engine looks great.

Maybe a stupid question, but when I remove the engine covers on the left and right side, will any oil come pouring out?
I know that on the one side is the stator but what is on the other side? Gears?
The thing is that I just change the oil...

[Allie]

Steve, I tried to search up your last few steps with the buffer as far as rouge, wheels etc but couldn't find anything. I have a mid range buffer (Harbor Freight) and am doing pretty good but not nearly the results you get. i don't suppose you could share some secrets or methodology???

I do mine the Ichiban way.

[JTGS850GL]

If you lean the bike onto the opposite side it will keep the oil from leaking out. You can put it up on the center stand and place a 2x4 under one side to lean it over enough. You could also drain the oil into a pan and then pour it back in when done.

[TooManyToys]

I do mine the Ichiban way.

Obviously there's a lack of power tool fetish here ......