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Rubbing compound or wet sanding to fix paint B4 I clear it?

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    Rubbing compound or wet sanding to fix paint B4 I clear it?

    Well, I painted my bike this weekend after what seems like an eternity of bodywork, bondo and sanding. It came out pretty good. Not perfect but 100% better than what I used to have. I learned a lot in the process. Now I need some advice.........

    I have not done the clear coat yet since I need to fix the paint a little 1st and wanted it to thoroughly dry as per the instructions on my blue metal flake spray cans.

    It seems that the increasing humidity got the best of me towards the end of my paint job yesterday. The parts took a very long time to dry and now look to have some sort of oxidation or drying pattern now in the finish. A real bummer. Day started out relativly dry and the humidity crept up as its been for the last month or so....... :x

    What I want to do is either wet sand the parts with 1000 - 2000 and then use rubbing compound to get the shine and eliminate the dull cloudiness. Or I can just use the rubbing compound by itself. Not sure what to do? The GSR paint guide says that the parts need at least a week or more before doing any sort of rubbing compound. Remember, I need to do this now before I do the clearcoat. Once I do the clear, I plan on sanding and rubbing as per the instructions. Just thought I could work the metal flake paint till its glossy via sanding/rubbing before I clear it over, then I'll wetsand and compound again after spraying the clear. Make sense? Ideas or suggestions?

    Is it OK to wetsand with 1000 - 2000/rubbing compound a metal flake type of paint?

    #2
    I'm not gonna help you because you made fun of the Lakers losing. :twisted: Ok, I'm just kidding.
    I don't know much about painting but I've read that typical spray can paints take about 45 days to fully cure (?). I would think you can't go rubbing or sanding on it until it's fully cured. But like I said, I don't know much about the subject.
    Sounds like you've put a lot of effort into it. You don't want to be impatient and ruin things. I'd contact the maker of your paint to find out the info you need.
    And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
    Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

    Comment


      #3
      Clear coating

      Hello
      DO NOT USE RUBBING COMPOUND BEFORE THE CLEAR COAT.

      What has happend is the humidity was high and caused moisture to be trapped in the paint.

      If u try to fix it now u will alter the way the flake is laying on the surface and it will need to b painted again.

      Follow my instructions below.

      What u must do now is to wet sand the paint with 600 to 1000 grit paper and then mist / dust a coat of color onto the parts, what u must remember is that in BASE / CLEAR finishes the color is only a dye! that offers no protection from the eliments,ie: weather , ultra violet light etc.

      So now wet sand with 6 - 1000 grit paper with a few drops of dish soap in the water ( makes the paper glide over the paint to make it silky smooth)

      Then wash the parts well with clean water and a clean rag then remove the exces H2O with air if u have it available .

      Now u can wash the parts with grease and wax remover. REMEMBER UR HANDS HAVE NATURAL OILS U CAN NOT ELIMINATE UNLESS U WASH THE PARTS.

      Now mist on a few coats to cover the parts to the desired look, remember that it will not shine and will not be silky smooth its only a basecoat.

      Let the parts dry for 20-30 minutes.

      Now use the TACK RAG to go over the parts lightly.

      Now u can clearcoat the parts, this will give the parts there shine and smooth finish.

      Finally, if u must sand out any flaws in the clear water sand the clear / BE CARFUL NOT TO GO THROUHGH THE CLEAR COAT with 2000 grit paper and soapy water let dry and use rubbing compound to get ur shine back. REMEMBER THE COMPOUNDS COME IN MANY GRITS FROM FINE TO COURSE, THEN WAX UR NEW FINISH.

      REMEMBER THESE INSTRUCTIONS R ONLY A GUIDE U MUST USE UR BEST JUDGMENT AS U R PAINTING.

      Best of luck, Archie Painter in disguise!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSE
        I'm not gonna help you because you made fun of the Lakers losing. :twisted: Ok, I'm just kidding.
        I don't know much about painting but I've read that typical spray can paints take about 45 days to fully cure (?). I would think you can't go rubbing or sanding on it until it's fully cured. But like I said, I don't know much about the subject.
        Sounds like you've put a lot of effort into it. You don't want to be impatient and ruin things. I'd contact the maker of your paint to find out the info you need.
        8O .......... Come on Keith, I was just kidding! (OK, I HAD to jab at the Lakers since my team....Bulls..... have been a disgrace since the breakup and LA has totally dominated everybody!)

        I've heard about the 45 day curing period on some paints. I will investigate, I used Duplicolor. Just need to figure out the wetsanding and/or rubbing compound issue.

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Clear coating

          Thanks for the detailed info Archie. I ran out of spray paint so I'll have to go and get some more. OK, so I got it!

          - Rubbing compound is the final step

          - clear coating will bring the shine and gloss

          - use my best judgement (oh....great! )

          Originally posted by ARCHIE ANDERSON
          Hello
          DO NOT USE RUBBING COMPOUND BEFORE THE CLEAR COAT.

          What has happend is the humidity was high and caused moisture to be trapped in the paint.

          If u try to fix it now u will alter the way the flake is laying on the surface and it will need to b painted again.

          Follow my instructions below.

          What u must do now is to wet sand the paint with 600 to 1000 grit paper and then mist / dust a coat of color onto the parts, what u must remember is that in BASE / CLEAR finishes the color is only a dye! that offers no protection from the eliments,ie: weather , ultra violet light etc.

          So now wet sand with 6 - 1000 grit paper with a few drops of dish soap in the water ( makes the paper glide over the paint to make it silky smooth)

          Then wash the parts well with clean water and a clean rag then remove the exces H2O with air if u have it available .

          Now u can wash the parts with grease and wax remover. REMEMBER UR HANDS HAVE NATURAL OILS U CAN NOT ELIMINATE UNLESS U WASH THE PARTS.

          Now mist on a few coats to cover the parts to the desired look, remember that it will not shine and will not be silky smooth its only a basecoat.

          Let the parts dry for 20-30 minutes.

          Now use the TACK RAG to go over the parts lightly.

          Now u can clearcoat the parts, this will give the parts there shine and smooth finish.

          Finally, if u must sand out any flaws in the clear water sand the clear / BE CARFUL NOT TO GO THROUHGH THE CLEAR COAT with 2000 grit paper and soapy water let dry and use rubbing compound to get ur shine back. REMEMBER THE COMPOUNDS COME IN MANY GRITS FROM FINE TO COURSE, THEN WAX UR NEW FINISH.

          REMEMBER THESE INSTRUCTIONS R ONLY A GUIDE U MUST USE UR BEST JUDGMENT AS U R PAINTING.

          Best of luck, Archie Painter in disguise!

          Comment

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