Question about 2k clearcoat

[tkent02]

My 2 cents...fwiw...the dupli-color paint is "supposed" to be used on autos, which "should" render it gas friendly when dry...

No, it comes off quickly with the first little splash of gasoline, has no resistance at all. The 2K is a true two part urethane paint and it resists chemicals like gasoline very well.

[loud et]

A tip on gaiters, as u can see in the picture they are a bit collapsed on themselves. If they are a tight fit, the air can't escape so you need to cut a small v notch in one of the pleats to let air in and out. I just haven't done so yet.

[loud et]

Right on, that's what I have always heard. I will most likely do as Ed said....a couple light tack coats with sufficient set time and lay on some medium coats.

[loud et]

I like the black out rear shocks...but that rear brake caliper looks like a nightmare to bleed

I had visions of an underslung caliper, lol.....it's just mocked up....the jury is still out. I am ordering new brake likes soon so I will decide soon.
I plan on leaving some slack in the line so I can rotate the caliper to the rear and get the bleeders higher up. That's if I go with this setup. I want to mount the exhaust first and see how it all looks.

[80GS850GBob]

I had visions of an underslung caliper, lol.....it's just mocked up....the jury is still out. I am ordering new brake likes soon so I will decide soon.
I plan on leaving some slack in the line so I can rotate the caliper to the rear and get the bleeders higher up. That's if I go with this setup. I want to mount the exhaust first and see how it all looks.

Don't get me wrong...I like the look, hard part is keeping just enough line slack on it for when you do bleed it so the screws are up...not too much...then mount.
Exhaust- straight back or up swept?

[80GS850GBob]

No, it comes off quickly with the first little splash of gasoline, has no resistance at all. The 2K is a true two part urethane paint and it resists chemicals like gasoline very well.

Well, I have a spare DP painted side panel {slightly warped but now replaced with a straight one}...I'll have to try it and see what it does. Still have time till spring to get it right if it lifts...

[80GS850GBob]

The ignition is a stock cover. It had that 3/4" hole in the center (don't know whyou they did that) so I filled it with quick steel, the ground the cover smooth. It's actually convex just a tiny bit. If you remember that Craftsman 3D sander??....It sanded it nice and even and left a slight arc to it. I like it.

- Thanks.......
Neat idea, and it looks great when painted

[WolfworksCustoms]

I didnt read the last 3 pages, but if yer talkin about the German made "Spraymax 2k" its incredible and definitely stands up to gas, isopropanol, acetone.....it costs a bunch....but one can did 4 coats on my tank and 3 coats on my fenders....the MAIN thing though, is NOT to be in a hurry.....spray on a coat and let it cure properly....if ya put a second coat over one that isnt dry, could cause bubbles....but the stuff is awesome.....

I got mine direct from Eastwood Chemical which is their main US distributor.....

[nvr2old]

Looks to me that you lucked out with the silver. Most times if you sand the metallic directly, it'll upset the way the metallic lays down, and you'll end up with a blotchy finish. Seems pretty good to me the way it is. I also agree with Ed. You have to have a catalyzed clear to protect the paint from gas. It'll destroy the Duplicolor with the first drop of gas otherwise. Same with the engine paint. Also don't forget to run a thin swipe of JB Weld over the paint line at the filler neck, or sure as sh-t, it'll start to peel back at that point from the fumes when you put gas in the tank.

[loud et]

Looks to me that you lucked out with the silver. Most times if you sand the metallic directly, it'll upset the way the metallic lays down, and you'll end up with a blotchy finish. Seems pretty good to me the way it is. I also agree with Ed. You have to have a catalyzed clear to protect the paint from gas. It'll destroy the Duplicolor with the first drop of gas otherwise. Same with the engine paint. Also don't forget to run a thin swipe of JB Weld over the paint line at the filler neck, or sure as sh-t, it'll start to peel back at that point from the fumes when you put gas in the tank.

Larry the swipe of JB weld sounds like a genius trick. during this paint job I wondered from time to time how the neck gets finished but never read up on it. I will certainly do that after I scuff this up and 2k it.
Thanks for all the input fellas....I didn't think duplicolor was very resistant. I tell ya what tho, you learn a lot during the course of your first paint job.

[loud et]

It was good to go through the process of tank prep and repair, primer, base, clear and to see the effect of wet sanding orange peel and buffing with a rubbing compound. (I did all that on the fender, haven't sanded or rubbed the tank yet because of the issue of 2k needs laid down now)
But now I see I can do some moderate body work and finish work and get some fair results.
In was just playing with the lines and like the way it came out. I could have taken more time on them, there are some lines that don't intersect very well.
Will do better on the next one from the experience.

[wymple]

Not a painter, so this stuff is all over my head, but I really like your whole project. The paint looks great!

[80GS850GBob]

FWIW- I've searched about 5 different cycle and car sites...I used "can 2K be painted over Duplicolor paint".
From what I've seen and read...and till shown different {non-condescending tone here}...I see we can lay 2K over duplicolor with no problem. The only thing one guy said was the 2K ran over his old paint....but he admitted he didn't scuff the surface prior to spraying so the fresh paint had little to grab onto and ran.
Pricey stuff, but it has great reviews.....

I'd say prep and spray the backside of a side cover as you did the rest of the bikes paint and then seal with 2K...easily ignored if for some reason it doesn't work.

[growler]

That bike looks great! You should have a build thread complete with lots of photos.

[Grimly]

A tip on gaiters, as u can see in the picture they are a bit collapsed on themselves. If they are a tight fit, the air can't escape so you need to cut a small v notch in one of the pleats to let air in and out. I just haven't done so yet.

I made the mistake of ebay gaiters from what I thought was a reputable source. Turns out they're utter rubbish. I put them on the rebuilt forks months ago and when I fitted the forks recently I was really hacked off to see they were cracking severely despite not even having been in use. Excellent quality Chinese rubber - not.
Fortunately I found another source just after buying them, and stocked up on enough gaiters for the rest of my riding life - NOS Volvo 440/ 460 /480 steering boots. They're ten times better (at least) and will last for years.
It further hacks me off to have to remove the forks again to replace the rubbish new gaiters. Jeez, even the cheap ones that were on it the last time lasted for at least a decade before they started giving up.
The Volvo boots...



The wider end is a perfect fit for the tops of the GS fork lowers and the narrow, while a couple of mm larger than the stanchions, is easily tie-wrapped around the top reach of the leg if needed. I would say these would easily accomodate the fatter fork stanchions fitted to the GK, for example.
I fitted a pair of these to the XJ months ago with no trouble at all.