Prepping and paining bike

[Guest]

Hi guys,
I am planning to give my 86 gsx 400 a respray but I'm unsure where to start.
I am planning to re spray the tank, fairings, exhaust, front shocks and rear springs (I don't have a spring compressor to remove them). I also want to paint my engine as much as possible without disassembling it completely.
It's a big list and I want the bike nice and shiny for the summer.

I plan to do the fairings, exhaust and suspension myself with paint cans. I'll leave the tank to someone with a paint gun.
What are my steps?
What grit sand papers should I buy?
What kind of can paints do I buy for the plastics?

The colours are black and red, hopefully the link works.

http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Gallery%20C/Suzuki%20GS400S%2085%20%201.jpg

Ive found info online but I wanted your guys' opinion.

Thanks
Andrew

[Deuce]

It's all in the prep work. If you're just sanding (roughing) the finish to make the paint adhere, I'd start with 240 grit and work your way up. 320, then 400, then 600 or 800 grit. All wet/dry paper as it cuts the best. If you have dents or chips, you will need some bondo and/or spot putty. I don't know how good you are with rattle cans, but you can turn out some pretty good paint jobs with them. However, they won't be very durable in the weather if you keep it outside and gas or other solvents will eat in to it as well. If you can get an HVLP gun from like Harbor Freight or Northern Tools, you can do it yourself with automotive paint from O'Reilly's or Advance Auto Parts. A smaller compressor will work with one of these guns. I think the auto parts stores sell mainly acrylic lacquer, so that stuff can be very forgiving if you get runs. Wait about 2 hours, sand the run out, and respray. You may not be able to get some of the paints I can get in my neck of the woods, though. Also, just look up some videos on beginner paint jobs. Anything is possible! Several years ago, I read a Hot Rod magazine where they were experimenting with different paints, and they rolled on Rustoleum on an old Falcon. They sanded it between coats and buffed it afterwards. They mentioned it was a lot of work, but it came out pretty decent. You won't find a bunch of different plastic specific paints, but Krylon should work as well as Rustoleum. I found that Rustoleum clear is a little more durable and shiny than Krylon clear. Let them dry thoroughly and depending on boo-boos in the paint, you can either wet sand with like 800 or 1000 grit or if it came out shiny enough, just use a Meguiar's liquid rubbing compound, then a polishing compound, then a sealer/wax. Let the paint cure for a bit after you polish it before you wax it.

As far as the engine and exhaust goes, you can paint the exhaust with a high heat header paint, but it is somewhat delicate and prone to scratching. On the engine, degrease the crap out of it and use a high heat engine paint.

Good luck!

[JamesWhut?]

A six pack of beer and an equal number of cans of cheap flat black spray paint is how most seem to do it.

[loud et]

A six pack of beer and an equal number of cans of cheap flat black spray paint is how most seem to do it.

Then they put it on CL for 2500 with no title.

[tkent02]

You can get real two part urethane clear in a rattle can, 2K is one brand. It will make the paint job resist gasoline no matter what you shoot it over.
Spray can, Harbor fright cheapo gun or a masters expensive tools, it's the care in the preparation and the skill of the painter that determines what it looks like.

There was a thread a few years ago with a lot of our home done paint jobs, some of them looked pretty good.

Here's a coupe of mine:

[Gorminrider]

I don't have a spring compressor to remove them

you don't need one. I learned here on the forum to use those ratchet-strp thingies and someone here recently posted using a tourniguet method which is really clever that I will try next time. (speaking of "clever", that (Tkent)painted on knee pad is pretty cool!)

as an aside I seem to be having better luck painting headers with Brake Caliper paint than just Header paint. It keeps a bit of semi-gloss longer too. It does chip off eventually like any paint (especially on chrome without a proper prep) but is easy to touch up if you are not fussy).

I suggest getting a decent paint mask, especially if you are doing this in an enclosed place. Really. Top of your list.

[60ratrod]

with the plastics, using an adhesion promoter or self-etching primer will help the paint stick better as they etch the surface, giving the paint more tooth to stick.

[JTGS850GL]

with the plastics, using an adhesion promoter or self-etching primer will help the paint stick better as they etch the surface, giving the paint more tooth to stick.

I would not use self etching primer on plastics. Etching primers are designed to chemically bond with bare metal surfaces. On plastics they tend to sink and have no more bonding ability then any other primer. Scuff the entire surface of the plastic pieces with a green scotch bright pad or 600 grit sand paper. Clean the entire surface with an appropriate cleaner/de-greaser. The scuffing should be deep enough to promote good mechanical adhesion. I tend to like products like PPG DPLF-50 which is an epoxy primer. The stuff sticks to anything and is a very strong base for a sandable primer if needed.

[jbird7262]

If your plastic parts already have a factory paint on them then don't bother with paints for plastics, paint for plastic is designed to be sprayed on plastic. Factory finish is baked and fully cured, you can just sand the existing paint down with 400 wet paper and spray your color, I would go with a base/clear from any autobody supply store and they will have everything you need, reducer, clear, hardener, thinner for cleaning your gun. If your going to try the farings then you might well spray the tins too, only way to learn. If you go with rattle cans you will never be happy and there will "0" durability, at least with the quality refinish products its also easier to repair your f*k ups. Get a cheap gravity feed gun from H/F usually under 45.00, you'll need air supply as well. minimum 20gal. tank, If you have dings then you will get a crash course in bodywork too. There are plenty of members that have been in the refinish trade for many years. I have over 35yrs. There are endless questions to be asked and just as many problems that will appear along the way, as for exhaust I would powder coat just for durability. Watch some youtube vids to get a idea of what to expect during your journey.