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    Eastwood products

    I guess this is appropriate for the Appearance Forum.

    I'll be painting my frame this winter and have some rust in areas that are inaccessible to emery cloth or electric means like welds. I've been looking at Eastwood gel rust products here in Canada (www.maidstonecoatings.com). There are 2 choices, a rust remover and a rust encapsulator. For what I'm using it for, which one did you find worked better?

    Paul Jones
    Gofast Innovations
    80 gs1100 16-v ported & polished, 1 mm oversize intake valves, 1150 carbs w/Dynojet stage 3, plus Bandit/gsxr upgrades

    #2
    Naval Jelly from Home Depot or Lowes. Wash it off with laquer thinner or acetone and prime immediately....done. Spot prime as your wiping the jelly off and then do a full frame prime after the rest is stripped down.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
      Naval Jelly from Home Depot or Lowes. Wash it off with laquer thinner or acetone and prime immediately....done. Spot prime as your wiping the jelly off and then do a full frame prime after the rest is stripped down.
      Chuck, Navel Jelly is a phosphate product. It needs to be washed off with water.

      The only way to truly clean a frame properly involves media blasting. Everything else is a compromise. If you refuse to media blast then I'd try to remove as much rust off as possible, including possibly using Naval Jelly as chuck recommends. It won't get all the rust off though, and because of that I recommend an encapsulation product like Por-15 paint after you give up. This paint is just a primer though so plan to top coat per the instructions.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #4
        Water will promote rust almost instantly. Ive used Acetone to remove it and it not only removes it, it also leaves a grease and film free surface thats instantly ready for a quick shot of primer from the rattle can in my other hand as I clean it off. More than one way to skin the cat as they say.
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

        Comment


          #5
          p38259.jpg
          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
          Chuck, Navel Jelly is a phosphate product. It needs to be washed off with water.

          The only way to truly clean a frame properly involves media blasting. Everything else is a compromise. If you refuse to media blast then I'd try to remove as much rust off as possible, including possibly using Naval Jelly as chuck recommends. It won't get all the rust off though, and because of that I recommend an encapsulation product like Por-15 paint after you give up. This paint is just a primer though so plan to top coat per the instructions.
          Well, Eastwood makes an encapsulation product too.
          80 gs1100 16-v ported & polished, 1 mm oversize intake valves, 1150 carbs w/Dynojet stage 3, plus Bandit/gsxr upgrades

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