polishing aluminum - is there a OEM clear coat?

[eil]

Does mag/aluminum polish do any kind of decent job at protecting bare aluminum?

[Sandman900ss]

Dang. Those look great, Sandman. I wish I didn't live in the land of envirofreaks, where PC costs the same as my kid's first semester in college.

Thank you, sir. I do lots of similar sets for other people, too bad the shipping costs back and forth between us would be prohibitive. Here's a Suzuki GT250 two stroke set (and lower fork legs) I refinished. I have fork legs I restored with final clear powder coat 8 years ago, that still look exactly the same. You do have to make sure your fuel system is leak free, as powder coat will be "clouded" or discolored by prolonged exposure to fuel.

eil: bare aluminum with polish can last a while and will keep looking good depending on storage conditions and how well you keep up with it, but tight areas you can't get to will be an issue long term.

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[bobgroger]

Does mag/aluminum polish do any kind of decent job at protecting bare aluminum?

SVSooke has a clandestine powder coat business, maybe he can help....

[Kiwi Canuck]

I do powder coating myself, and recently refinished my '81 GS650 covers. I shoot Columbia Coatings gloss clear, never a corrosion issue long term because my preparation is extensive. I did not over polish the covers as I don't care for the "blingy" look- satin brushed finish is more subtle and under stated.
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Wow very nice, I love the satin finish too.

Did you replace the emblems or are they original, reason I ask is I need some for my 1981 GS650 E and want to know if that is what Suzuki is still selling.

[Gorminrider]

I like the idea of something renewable. The Wizards Power Seal is something I'd try but it isn't available in Canada. Anything else as good?

Powdercoating looks great! so do other coverings recommended in earlier threads but I'm afraid either will get chips out of it and then I'm back where I started with the original compromised coating...The forks seem to get the most punishment. (but It's all 80-130 kph highway speeds to go anywhere here)
probably what demonstrably does work without a coating is to wash the bike thoroughly after every use (like Trevor does). I put on a barrier oil too (Fluid film) but I am not so diligent as Trevor. excuses: water hose is shut off in winter so it's hard to get a real good wash, doesn't dry quickly so no barrier reapplied etc etc.)

[SVSooke]

SVSooke has a clandestine powder coat business, maybe he can help....

LOL how clandestine is it if you know about itPC is the way to finish off polished stuff,wish I'd bought my set up long before I did!

[Sandman900ss]

Wow very nice, I love the satin finish too.

Did you replace the emblems or are they original, reason I ask is I need some for my 1981 GS650 E and want to know if that is what Suzuki is still selling.

I replaced the emblems, they're available at around $20 each. I also replaced the phillips fasteners, and the oil level sight glass rubber seal (powder coat cures at 385 degrees).

[londonboards]

That is factory finish and perfect. Well done.

[Sandman900ss]

This is what my stator cover looked like before I refinished it. A little advice: you must get underneath all corrosion before the final clear powder coat, or it'll pop up eventually ruining the finish. Sometimes the aluminum is actually darkened or stained inside. Experience has taught me how to work the progressive abrasive levels- it's a judgment call on how aggressive you have to be, without causing more work for yourself. Do it incorrectly and you can also ruin the work piece.
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[Joe Garfield]

I'm having similar issue - recently polished engine covers starting to oxidize or collect something. If I was serious about it, I'd look at Cerakote (high temp ceramic coating). There are colors that look like polished aluminum, and I think there is a clear.

For now, the polished aluminum I have is still easier to clean up than the old, yellow clear coat.

[Whim Pickens]

This is what my stator cover looked like before I refinished it. A little advice: you must get underneath all corrosion before the final clear powder coat, or it'll pop up eventually ruining the finish. Sometimes the aluminum is actually darkened or stained inside. Experience has taught me how to work the progressive abrasive levels- it's a judgment call on how aggressive you have to be, without causing more work for yourself. Do it incorrectly and you can also ruin the work piece.
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My 82 650GL is corroded the same way. Been rubbing on it with Scotch Brite, Turtlewax and Marvel Mystery Oil with some success, but progress has ended.

Can you run down the process, especially how to remove the staining and mistakes to avoid?

Thanks.

[limeex2]

Does mag/aluminum polish do any kind of decent job at protecting bare aluminum?

I removed the clearcoat, used red scotchbrite and wd-40 to get the look that a couple others here enjoy, more like brushed?. I like that look also. Protect it with ACF-50. Good aircraft quality stuff. I'll see what happens over winter, sharing the garage with my car in MN. If it gets a little corroded it will be easy to touch up

[Gorminrider]

I am concluding that the Root problem is that the factory anodising is getting sanded off in the "polishing".

Any fluid "protectant" I've tried gets blasted off by rain on its first ride. Rain at high speeds is pretty solid stuff... Epoxies under various names might work but I expect they will need patching as they get worn and chipped..so the effect will be the same as the original (sigh) . I fear of the nuisance of having to take it off...and so I just "keep after them".

If I thought spar varnish would stick I would go thataway. just on the forks being not hot.

But in the end, I expect it'll be zinc chromate primer and some Hi-Heat Black.