Engine bolt kits? Frame bolt kits?

[gsrick]

Hey guys and gals. I may be restoring an '80 850G for a customer that wants it back to original or maybe modded just a touch. Actually he has two bikes I may be restoring, the 850G and an '80 1000E. He seems to be willing to put the money into them, so I'll be tearing into the 850 first. The question for now is replacement bolts. Does anyone know of a company that offers a complete stock engine bolt kit. The over all bike doesn't look too bad and he has already had the bodywork painted, which i didn't see. The problem is all the bolt heads on this bike are rusted, from the engine to driveshaft nuts. I'm going to try and give him a roundabout estimate and I figure if I can get most of the bolts and nuts needed in kit form it would cut the cost down significantly from going through a Suzuki parts fiche. I know there are some Allen engine bolt kits for the covers, but I need all the other ones too. Thanks in advance and I hope this is the right section for this question. Please provide links to source if possible.

Also for anyone that has replace every bolt on their cases with factory, why are there two part numbers listed in the diagram pointing at the same bolt. For example look a the diagram in the upper left, you see #28 and #12 pointing to the same bolt. In the parts list it shows that for the #12 you will need 9, but if you scroll down the list to #28, it say 8 are needed. So are 8 needed, 9 needed or 17 needed?

12

.BOLT (6x35)
01517-06358 01550-06357

$2.95




28

.BOLT (6x35)
01517-06358 01550-06357

$2.95

[roeme]

I'll have a look whether I have the original parts fiche for that bike in my stack. If so, maybe the resolution is better and/or there is some explanation.

[Steve]

Is that fiche for multiple years? There might have been a change in the number of bolts between '80/'81, for example.

.

[gsrick]

I was looking at Babbits fiche, but it is the same one as the '81 and the same one on Partsoutlaw. It interesting looking at the prices between the two. Going down the list the first two bolts listed #3 and #4, Partsoutlaws price is $.15 more per bolt, but #5-#8 is $.45 cheaper per bolt. I hate to have to buy from multiple sources, but to get the best price, I may have to do that. I need to find a cheaper source though for a complete kit if possible. Just the case bolts, without including the engine mount bolts, nut and washers and cover screws, carb screws..........my cart is already at $231.01.

I've never done this for a customer before, so I'm finding it hard to come up with an estimate for labor on something like this, especially not knowing what condition the engine is in. I'm not sure if I'll need to tear into the engine or not until I get the frozen carbs cleaned and check the valves and see what's up after that. In our initial meeting I said as a guesstimate somewhere between 1-2k for labor. That's stripping the bike down to it's individual components, cleaning and repainting the frame and polishing the shiny stuff. Also rebuilding the forks and cleaning and repairing the wiring harness. This will be hard and a long haul job if I don't have my shop going and just an hour or so a day after 10 hours at work. I can see this winding up around 4k easy after it's all said and done. As I said I don't have to do the body work, but 5k+ for restoring an 850G? I mentioned that the '80 850G wasn't high on the collectors list so he and his (brother/friend?) mentioned cafe?

I'm not sure what he does. The guy that passed my name to him, says it's something to do with Mercedes, but what that is I don't know. The unit he uses for storage, where he also has a big block '68 Cobra GT and a late '60s Lincoln Conti, convertible says something about Collections on the entrance door. Him and his family show up to meet me in their Land Rover.

[GregT]

On this side of the world, we find it easier to replate the case bolts than replace.
Sidecovers are easy - stainless are readily available and pretty cheap.

[pete]

Rick, I just went through the process of figuring out generic replacements for my Kat motor's crankcase bolts.

In short, it's actually easier and cheaper to buy genuine ones for me. There were a couple of sizes that are hard to get, and the genuine bolts from the dealer we like to use over here ended up about $4 cheaper in total. In addition, to get close in price I had to price up the black coated bolts instead of zinc coated, and going by the few I already have on the Kat, the black coating doesn't last long at all... I've got half a dozen I'm now going to replace because they've started to corrode already and it's just been sitting...

[gsrick]

On this side of the world, we find it easier to replate the case bolts than replace.
Sidecovers are easy - stainless are readily available and pretty cheap.

I've found a company that offers multiple plating. http://www.pmforlando.com/index.html Are the factory bolts clear zinc plated? I guess I can soak them in Evaporust then have them replated. I'll have to contact the customer and see what he wants to do about the bolts.

[Fjbj40]

You 1-2k for labour is not enough!

I did a KZ1000 last year, engine tear down, complete blast, clean and repaint of engine with Gunkote. Frame blast and repaint, carbs rebuilt, tank derusted coated and all body parts based/cleared. Wiring harness gone through and repaired as required for a 37 year old bike, modern Blue Sea blade fuse box installed, harness rewrapped with dry vinyl tape. All new bearings and all rebuilt calipers and masters with SS brake lines, forks rebuilt without new springs. All OEM parts inside engine.

He spent $7000 total, I put in roughly 275 hrs, give or take. Let's just say he got a smokin deal.

[GregT]

I've found a company that offers multiple plating. http://www.pmforlando.com/index.html Are the factory bolts clear zinc plated? I guess I can soak them in Evaporust then have them replated. I'll have to contact the customer and see what he wants to do about the bolts.

Our platers call it bright zinc. There are passivating solution finishes available also to give colours - usually a gold.
I usually wire buff them before handing them in for plating.