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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35665
- Torrance, CA
I'm unaware of any high gloss black header paint. I think there is a reason for that...Ed
To measure is to know.
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I've tried various high-heat flat black exhaust paints and they don't last.
However, I've not tried high-heat ceramic coatings - maybe they do last.
I eventually gave up on that and bought another set of downpipes.---- Dave
Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window
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Originally posted by Grimly View PostI've tried various high-heat flat black exhaust paints and they don't last.
However, I've not tried high-heat ceramic coatings - maybe they do last.
I eventually gave up on that and bought another set of downpipes.
Never seen gloss paint for the headers.1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red
2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.
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The reason I want gloss is because I'm putting my stock exhaust back on. They have sat in storage for decades and have gotten a little surface rust. I'm thinking that because of dual wall head pipes the outer pipe would be cool enough for a good high temp paint. Anyone ever heat gun a set just to see?
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Originally posted by red1100 View PostDoes anyone know of a very high temp gloss black not flat available for header paint?
oh yeh there is no black gloss.
i cannot stress enough that the paint must be completely dry between coats and again before curing or it will bubble
Last edited by fastbysuzuki; 07-20-2021, 04:14 PM.The big guy up there rides a Suzuki (this I know)
1981 gs850gx
1999 RF900
past bikes. RF900
TL1000s
Hayabusa
gsx 750f x2
197cc Francis Barnett
various British nails
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Originally posted by fastbysuzuki View PostI used flame proof vht paint on my RF900 headers I say header as the first 4" from the cylinder head are stainless steel so I did not paint those from stainless it's mild steel until it exits from under the bike its then stainless. so all the mild steel was painted. The stuff I used in the link below says it has silicone and ceramic you do need to use the primer then the finish coat following the instruction carefully, preparation is key. I have been very happy with the results. I did ask the supplier about the curing process the reply was you can prime let compleatly dry then finish coat again compleatly dry then do the curing as both primer and finish cure at the same rate. The link is to a supplier in the uk but if I remember correctly the product is made in the USA.
oh yeh there is no black gloss.
i cannot stress enough that the paint must be completely dry between coats and again before curing or it will bubble
https://www.frost.co.uk/vht-very-hig...-312g-aerosol/
When you say "the paint must be completely dry between coats" Would you want to allow each coat to cure 7 days ?
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Originally posted by grcamna2 View PostWhen you say "the paint must be completely dry between coats" Would you want to allow each coat to cure 7 days ?The big guy up there rides a Suzuki (this I know)
1981 gs850gx
1999 RF900
past bikes. RF900
TL1000s
Hayabusa
gsx 750f x2
197cc Francis Barnett
various British nails
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IMG_20210722_073226.jpgI used Duplicolor caliper enamel paint with ceramic in gloss black at Autozone. Good for 500 degrees F. They sat in the sun and baked for about 6 hours.
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VHT"Flameproof" series has a "Clear" (and FYI, a primer...).that goes on top of the primer-> flat black*... but it's semi-gloss, really ...
So, the process is primer,flat,clear as per the microscopic font given as instructions on the can.
Be very very careful trying to follow instructions. If you get stuck between coats,(I ran out of black so be sure to get two cans where going over chrome+primer) it's a very good idea to LEAVE IT at least a week before continuing coats...as the instructions say.
Sometimes I succeed, sometimes not-I've developed several superstitions...LEAVING IT ALONE beyond a week in warm weather also helps to cure it but do many short startups too, to cure. Ideally, stop the engine BEFORE it smokes and at the first whiff of hot paint. An IR thermometer may help, but not necessary. Maybe its real use is as something to keep your attention on the criticality of the process...
The most vulnerable to "curing failure" is the closest to engine and around the bend...
*There's also an "aluminum" silver and a bronzy-looking "steel" colour.Last edited by Gorminrider; 07-25-2021, 11:47 AM.
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