Announcement

**Anonymous** · 02-01-2005, 11:44 AM

Well, I replied in the other painting thread, but I will get it again here, too.

Questions:
1. The fender is NO problem it will be easy. Do I use Gloss paint?
2. How many coats of paint?
3. How long do I have to wait between paint and clear coating?

1) Gloss or not doesn't matter. If it is a base coat / clear coat system the color will likely be a very flat finish until the clear is applied. If it is not specifically a base/clear system the color may have some gloss. The end result is what's important, not how you get there.
2) Minimum 2-3. I might do more depending on the coverage and how much wet samding you do between coats. Keep the coats thin.
3) Follow the instructions from the paint manufacturer. Also, make sure you use products all from one maker if possible to ensure compatability.

1. Decals. The website that is posted in several threads here doesn't have the decals for my bike. Are there any Generic decals I can use? This is what's holding me back on the side panels. The tank will have to wait, as I don't have the time to strip all that down. But I will need decals for that someday too. Has anyone ever used the Newer Suzuki Decals?
2. Clear coat over the decals or not?
3. Anyone who has ever used different decals - any Pics?

1) Almost any sign shop will cut vinyl decals for you. If you have not destroyed the originals yet, or you have pics of what you want or even a drawing many shops will do the art work and custom cut decals for pretty reasonable prices. Especially compared to OEM prices for decals. Did I mention that Kawasaki wanted $95 EACH for the "Ninja" stickers on my ZX-9. Yeesh. Anyway, maybe check with some of the decal suppliers on E-bay as well. They often have extensive catalogs of graphics you can choose from for cheap. I ended up replacing my ZX-9 decals for $10 for the pair from an E-bay seller. If you want, I can dig out the seller ID and pass it on.

2) Clear over them. Be careful to test the clear on scrap decal bits first to ensure the solvents in the clear do not attack the decal material.

3) No pics, but there is certainly no magic to decals. Use what you like and go to it.

This may sound dumb, but if it's the fender and side panels - and everything has dried for a couple days, can you still ride the bike? Or do you have to let them sit in the Garage?

I would let it sit. Until it has fully dried the paint is more subsceptible to scratches and chips and it will get dirty while riding. That dirt can be a bear to get off before the polishing stage and the paint may get damaged. If you have gone to the trouble of painting, wait the extra day or two and do it right. You will be happier if you wait. If it is only the side panels, just leave them off and ride it. Even the fender if you don't expect rain. It will look a bit rough but you will be riding.

Mark

**DMPLATT** · 02-01-2005, 12:19 PM

Thanks a lot for all the info. That helps a lot.
So, according to the garage section paint section, once the 2-3 coats of paint dry on the side panel, then the decal, then the clear coats. Sound right?

Do you really have to wait 5 days before the polishing task?

**rodcwer** · 02-03-2005, 08:28 PM

Dave, depends on what kind of paint you use.Some harden quicker than others.If your shooting it out of a rattle can i would give it a few days.If your shooting out of a paint gun ask questions at the paint store they will usually fill you in on anything you ask.I had'nt done any painting since the mid 80'sand found a lot of changes in paint technology when I did my bike.but the lady at the paint store brought me up to date and made the proper suggestions on what I needed after she found out what I was doing, and you've seen how it turned out first hand.

**Anonymous** · 02-04-2005, 11:35 AM

paint and decals

I would let it sit for a week after you paint. If you're using a urethane, it takes longer to cure. Like you noticed, if the old paint comes off that easily, it probably wasn't that good anyway. Why not start clean, strip everything, prep well. You'll be happier and everyone will think you're a pro! Make sure you get any contaminants off before painting. I wear latex gloves so I don't leave greasy fingerprints that the paint won't stick too. Make sure you paint where no one has been using WD40 or other other silicones. That will help you avoid "fish eyes".

If you are doing basecoat-clearcoat, make sure the clear is compatable with the basecoat. Good clear will dissolve inferior basecoat. If you have any doubt, do a test panel. If you can use the same company's products together, since they are usually compatable. You will have to scuff everything between coats, if you wait for it to dry. You can spray your clear after the basecoat has flashed if you want to. Then there is no scuffing needed. It will stick to the tacky base. You may want to apply several basecoats over the primer, scuffing lightly between coats (when dry) and removing any dust with a tack rag.

Mark has the right idea about the sign shop. I never order decals from a dealer, I have a place custom make whatever I want, even if it is a stock type decal. It will take several clear coats to bury the decals, then you can wet sand and buff, or leave as is if it looks smooth.

**DMPLATT** · 02-05-2005, 03:16 PM

Thanks for all the info. It'll be a few weeks, but I'll try the fender and side panels and see how they turn out. If all is well, then I'll tackle the tank.
The local auto store has paint and clear from Duplicolor. That should be compatible.

Announcement

Plastic Painting

Plastic Painting

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment