sandblasted cases

[SqDancerLynn1]

If you do that make sure to wash it very good when you think it is clean wash it again thr blasting media gets everywhere

[Hoomgar]

I was told last night that with the type of blasting we did to my engine there is no further action required. I am not sure what the differences are but this is coming from someone who has been doing this to hundreds of engines for over twenty years so it is defacto. All Joe said I need to do is use an engine brightener on it fromt time to time when I wash the bike and there will be no problems. I would only have a problem if I never washed or cleaned my bike. Maybe that is the missing element.

[Anonymous]

If you do that make sure to wash it very good when you think it is clean wash it again thr blasting media gets everywhere

Good advice. I have blasted 2 stroke cylinders that I KNOW were completely taped up and sealed, because I did it myself. After blasting, there was media inside the cylinders anyway...

we've missed something then.

Some of it depends on where you live and your climate. If you live in a humid climate or near an ocean (salt air corrodes aluminum fantastically well) you WILL have problems with corrosion. If you live in Arizona, it will probably be fine for a long time. YMMV

All Joe said I need to do is use an engine brightener on it fromt time to time when I wash the bike and there will be no problems.

Any info on the brightener? It sounds like what I was looking for a while back to clean up my head and cylinder block.


Mark

[Hoomgar]

All Joe said I need to do is use an engine brightener on it fromt time to time when I wash the bike and there will be no problems.

Any info on the brightener? It sounds like what I was looking for a while back to clean up my head and cylinder block.


Mark

I hear that S100 Engine Brightener does a good job. I haven't used it yet but some of the guys on here have and had good things to say about it. Here is the thread where they reviewed it:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=27307

[Anonymous]

hear that S100 Engine Brightener does a good job. I haven't used it yet but some of the guys on here have and had good things to say about it. Here is the thread where they reviewed it:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ic.php?t=27307

Thanks, Mark. I will look into it locally here.


Mark

[Anonymous]

I glass bead blasted an aluminum pistol scope a few years ago so it would match my bead blasted handgun. That gave it a grey mat finish that held up very well w/o any further treatment even though the anodized finish had been removed. As for your engine cases, I dunno.....

[feelergaugephil]

Covers

DONT, I REPEAT< DONT SANDBLAST< It's far too abrasive,GLASSBEADS ONLY. I did my rear shaft with Sand and F........d it, I ended getting another one very cheap and beadblasted that, then polished it to mirror finish. heeeeeeed! the above warning, ONLY Sandblast frames/swinging arms.

[Anonymous]

heeeeeeed! the above warning, ONLY Sandblast frames/swinging arms.

Sand is only good for steel parts and thicker stuff at that. Do NOT sandblast sheet metal components as the blasting will distort the panels and they will not come back straight. Sand is far too aggressive for aluminum. If you want to keep the aluminum, that is.

Glass beads are acceptable for aluminum or steel parts.

Some plastic medias are also OK for aluminum, but you need to talk to the blaster about your parts and find out the specifics of what they are using.

Some of the slag medias are also OK for aluminum, but most are too aggressive.

Ground walnut shells are the least aggressive and will leave a nice semi gloss finish on most aluminum pieces. It also doesn't remove serious corrosion very well. And costs a fortune.

For all around aluminum/bike parts use, galss beads are the hands-down winner.


Mark

[feelergaugephil]

in reply

AHA! A man with knowledge! Nice reply to mine. Phil.