Back for more help *eye roll*

[JonathanPD812]

You ain't kidding, my brother does deserve a beating now

* The choke plunger functions fine, moves freely... I will admit one of my choke plungers doesn't have the rubber boot at the top.. the first time I cleaned the carbs I had lost it... Would that do it? I hadn't thought of that until now...
* The additional fuel filter was because the one in the tank was getting plugged up quickly with rust flakes, but a good flow of fuel is still being delivered to the carbs..
* I'll check the intake boots that's in interesting thing I hadn't thought of..
lastly.. * the pipes both get warm and both cylinders are firing...

I swear if I did this to myself over that little choke plunger boot idk what I'll do lol

[Gorminrider]

Your bike seems to idle fine..and anyways Boots on choke plunger shouldn't bother it too much but you can pack some grease around them temporarily to see if they are letting massive amounts of air in when they are closed(choke off) but I doubt it.

Got it home, the pin in the carb was stuck in the venturi part so I took apart the carbs. They were gross.. cleaned them (ultrasonic in carb cleaner) re assembled with new rubber.

"pin stuck in venturi" doesn't sound good...and that would ring my bell...but
Your symptoms seem to centre around that period between idle and "lifting" the jet needle from the high speed jet for higher speed. It could be several things per the carbs- the actual idle jets always come to mind because they're most important from low to midrange whereafter the mainjet dominates. You have to entirely remove them(lowspeed and highspeed jets) from carbs to clean them. I hope you did.
if you are finding particles of rust in the fuel, these are going to dirty the tiny holes in the idle jets and it might take cleaning more than once...If adjusting the idlemix screws isn't having any effect, the idle jet is a suspect beyond the screw itself with its tiny hole, rubber o-ring ,washer and spring.
.....When you are thinking about the idle and choke circuits on these CV carbs at startup, the throttle plate isn't open but the pistons/valves are sucking very hard. IE: high intake manifold vacuum. That's why these circuits have such teeny holes when they put mix into the intake side of the engine...lots of suction at the intake. Up to here, your bike seems ok...but ideally now that the motor is spinning, as you open the throttle plate, more air is allowed to flow over the other jets in the carb bore allowing more gas into this airstream so the engine goes faster and maintains a fast flow of air...you can sort of feel this when you blip the throttle and there's a hesitation as the vacuum drops.. .especially when idling a cold bike and even worse with choke on when it ruins the idle with too much air/vacuum reduction...(somewhat explains why not to use the throttle on start-up on these...)

That's just the carbs. It doesn't mean it can't be something else. The ignition was the starting point of the thread and I expect it's ok by now because the bike runs at low and high rpm. But a real ride test when real torque and power is needed is always the final arbiter.

[JonathanPD812]

So what I meant in the earlier post is the Needle jet (pin) had lifted from it's seat in the emulsion tube (I think) and missed when it came down.. it happens when I flip the carbs upsidedown, is that not normal..?