A question that has been nagging me since I did my carb rebuild. There was a small ball that came out of the side of one of the carbs that looked like it was plugging a hole in the side of the carb. Seems like it was put in at the factory but I'm not sure. It is midway up the inside of the carb. I think, where two carbs come together on either side of the set, there is a rubber crossover now. I think (probably wrong) that the hole plugged was on this same axis, except on the inner carbs where the throttle cable, adjustment screw and spring merge into the carb set, thus having no rubber tube cross over. Does that make any sense? Was that little ball (I lost it when it popped out) sealing an unused air passage? If I had any hair left I would be pulling it out... thanks for any advice you all can give me on this.
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Can't get her to idle without choke
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Ok, I need to pull the carbs and redo everything I guess. No luck so far.
A question that has been nagging me since I did my carb rebuild. There was a small ball that came out of the side of one of the carbs that looked like it was plugging a hole in the side of the carb. Seems like it was put in at the factory but I'm not sure. It is midway up the inside of the carb. I think, where two carbs come together on either side of the set, there is a rubber crossover now. I think (probably wrong) that the hole plugged was on this same axis, except on the inner carbs where the throttle cable, adjustment screw and spring merge into the carb set, thus having no rubber tube cross over. Does that make any sense? Was that little ball (I lost it when it popped out) sealing an unused air passage? If I had any hair left I would be pulling it out... thanks for any advice you all can give me on this.
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I see no one has directed you to the VM carb cleaning tutorial.
Gsarchive.bwringer.com1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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Knowing you lost a part puts you in the position that you know you carbs aren't assembled correctly. Not seeing the Ball, or having rebuild these carbs, the link given to you should help you out a lot. When you take the carbs apart, do so in a big plastic tub (I do it this way as I too have had the odd part fall out, and learned from my experience), so if anything falls out, you'll at least have if. If it did plug a hole.
Before cleaning the bodies, see if you can, with a strong light, look into all the holes and try to find any ring or mark that may indicate where the ball resided.
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Ok, I have cleaned the carbs and blasted them with my new air compressor. They are all assembled and mounted on the mounting plate, ready to put back on the bike. I have a question regarding the middle carbs. Both carbs seem to have open holes in the middle facing the tension spring for the throttle. I am pretty sure this isn't supposed to be. The holes seem to be at the same level as the air cross connection tubes that merge the outer carbs (the small black rubber hoses that connect 1-2 and 3-4 carbs. Why are there air holes between 2 and 3?? Nothing can link these because of the very large spring between the two... Do I just plug those with caps? Thanks guys.
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Blowing air through them would tell you much.
On syncing your carbs, if 2 and 3 exhausts are connected at the exhaust, you will have to look at the manual, Suzuki used this weird vacuum machine and on bikes where 2 and 3 are connected, the syncing requires that they bee a "11/2" ball lower that 1 and 4 carbs. This is due to the scavenging done by the exhaust. If they are each connected to 1 and 4, 1 and 2 then 2 and 4, then you sync in the normal all equal manner.
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Old post but I'll add this. If you have a 2 screw carb. Air metering in the back and fuel metering in front underneath look at this. If you touched the front screw, make sure you start at 1/2 turn out and then add more if needed. You'll need more for sure as this meters the idle fuel mixture going into the engine. If you have a pilot jet thats to large 17.5 for example, you'll turn this screw in. In my case, I had them almost shut off. Then I switched back to a 15 pilot and now I have them 3/4 turn out and needing more.
FYI - with the big bore kit, you might start looking for VM28/9 or bigger.Current:
1993 ZX11 - 2nd build in progress
1977 GS750 (710 is getting closer)
1998 Kawasaki Voyager - selling
1998 Chevy C2500
1999 Rav4
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I have it idling... whoopee. I can get it to idle now without choke after disassembling the carbs again and blowing everything out with a compressor. I am now trying to get it to idle smoother. I don't have the baffle chamber or the airbox on yet which I am sure is screwing up things. I have all the stock airbox parts but am using a K&N filter in the box. As far as checking the timing, I have added a dynajet electronic ignition so is the timing check scenario the same?
I have also noticed that my right side exhaust is smoking. Not dense smoke but noticeable (white color). Is this a fuel screw setting or something more expensive (I did a total top end rebuild with a big bore kit - 1100 cc now).
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