Draining fuel and carbs for winter

[Suzukian]

Any gas in the float bowls will evaporate during storage. That's why it's a good idea to dump it out, or maybe run the bike until it stops, then dump out the remnants. Filling the crankcase with oil, up to the filler, is mentioned in the owners manual. I'd fog the cylinders too. What I would NEVER do is put oil in the brake system. NO, NO, NO. Change the brake fluid if you are worried, to get any water out of the system. But never add anything other than brake fluid to that system.

I was referring to very long term storage, like multi year. I have helped pickled a couple of 300SL Gullwing Mercedes Benz's, and vintage aircraft. This is the norm. The mineral oil preserves the rubber, does not absorb moisture like brake fluid does. Again, very long term storage, not seasonal. Brake Fluid will absorb moisture right through the rubber lines for long term storage and deteriorate the rubber. Why do you think those Rubber lines close up on the inside sometimes? Mineral Oil is Neutral. It does not absorb moisture, will do nothing negative to anything in or on your bike, in terms on storage, but again, I emphasized LONG TERM STORAGE. I prefaced my remark with that. Read the whole posts in context, please.

Mineral is sprayed on all aircraft that are sitting on the Runway tarmac as part of the corrosion maintenance. The whole motor, wires,everything, is sprayed with a mist of mineral oil. the pan has a cut out for the front wheel on tricycle landing gear models and capturing the run off, but that oil hits everything and protects it. Flush brake fluid through a brake line that has been preserved with mineral oil, flushing till all you have is Brake Fluid, and you will have a very smooth running system. Again, this is for multi year storage, O.K.?

I prepare my bikes with a mixture of SeaFoam and Stabil for the tank. I will fog the motor, that's a good point to bring up. I don't empty the float bowls, as they are treated with Stabil, Bone dry float bowls are not a good idea and I don't park the bikes for more than 5 or 6 months. When I am ready to go, I empty the float bowls, put it on prime to refill. and start my bikes. I have never had a failure in starting a bike I prepared in the over 45 years I've been riding. I don't know how or why your float bowls evaporate fluid, I have not run across that problem. That is dead air space, with a vent tube, and like I stated, I don't have any idea where you float bowls are emptying out too. I have taken carbs apart where the gas has turned into a dark shellac type fluid. If they are dry, they were drained. I have seen many Jets with the tops of their nuts sitting in the bottom of the float bow, lucky the threads come out, as there is no pressure on them. The electrolysis rotting the jet heads off.

My experience is not limited to motorcycles, it includes sailboats, motorboats, aircraft, electronics (I repair to component level) and I am a Master Machinist and have programmed 4, 5 and 8 axis CNC machines. I did 3D printing back in 1983 when it was top secret. Just so you know. I don't intellectualize in posts, I only post from experience.

[bwringer]

I recommend using fuel stabilizer in the gas, and filling the tank to the top. Run the engine long enough to get stabilized fuel though the carbs. You can then drain the carbs and not worry about any small amount of remnant fuel in them.

The Suzuki Owners Manual for each bike specifies a storage method. Can't hurt to follow the procedure laid out by the boss.

This is The Way.

Do NOT start it up every month or whatever; you'll do a lot more harm than good.

[rphillips]

Interesting, bwringer... I'm always interested in learning. Always have thought it was good, though I don't always do it, to start eng. and let them run enough to circulate oil through eng., just to be sure bearings don't kind'f get dry, and fuel through carbs. just so fuel doesn't sit long enough to start developing deposits. Wondering the harm that may be from starting every now and then. I've always heard when we start a bike, to let it run long enough to dry the condensation out of the exhaust so the moisture doesn't sit in there and let rust get started from the inside.

[93Bandit]

This is The Way.

Do NOT start it up every month or whatever; you'll do a lot more harm than good.

I'm curious what your reasoning is? Seems to me if starting it once a month was hard on it, you wouldn't be able to ride it...

If you keep the tank topped off with fresh fuel, what's the harm?

[trevor]

I'm curious what your reasoning is? Seems to me if starting it once a month was hard on it, you wouldn't be able to ride it...

If you keep the tank topped off with fresh fuel, what's the harm?

Yes, I'd like to hear why it's "bad" too...

[Nessism]

Condensation forms from the cold and hot cycles. Unless the bike can be ridden long enough to fully dry out the exhaust, for example, running the bike can cause rusting issues.

[Cipher]

Condensation forms from the cold and hot cycles. Unless the bike can be ridden long enough to fully dry out the exhaust, for example, running the bike can cause rusting issues.

Winter air hereabouts is dry. I use stabil and start my bike running it long enough to replenish the battery and fully heat the engine and exhaust.
40 plus years no rust or rot. As for exhausts they pack enough combustion byproducts that they are constantly being eaten by acids.

[Suzukian]

If you put a piece of wood under the side, or center stand, it will prevent the battery from draining as much (if you haven't disconnected it) If you have it on a tender check the fluid level as sometimes the tenders cause the fluid to evaporate out. If you start the bike once a month, in a dry garage, till the motor is hot, with a few revs, it will dry any condensation in the exhaust, and once it's off, and still hot, you could plug the exhaust to prevent moisture from getting any moisture, or critters in there. I just pull the battery out,, keep in on a tender on and off in the back room,, check the battery with a hydrometer (specific gravity tester) and top it off with distilled water if it needs it. I'm maintaining 3 batteries now, I get about 5 years out of a battery. Moisture in the exhausts acts like a catalysts to make all those acids do their evil deed even quicker.

[allojohn]

If you put a piece of wood under the side, or center stand, it will prevent the battery from draining as much)

???? What jiggery pokery is this!

[rphillips]

You said Whaaaaat???

[Cipher]

???? What jiggery pokery is this!

Charles Hawtery, Carry on again Doctor 1969

[bill_face]

Thanks for the input everyone. So it seems from the responses that filling the tank with zero ethanol, fuel stabilised petrol is a good move. Float bowls should be drained either when putting into storage or before starting back up after storage.

Seafoam additive question: I gather this is a cleaner and as it takes a while to get delivered to me I'm thinking I could add this when I return and run it through when i start riding again in the spring.
It seems to work wonders with the carbs and I have been building myself up to do a thorough carb cleaning owing to long-term poor starting and more recent loss of power. With a bit of luck the Seafoam might save me the bother

[Suzukian]

???? What jiggery pokery is this!

Batteries drain out of the negative side of the battery terminal when sitting a long time. Where do you think electrons come from?. The potential of Earth ground is far stronger than the Positive Potential. A charged battery are electrons pulled up from ground to fill the positive potential (nature abhors a vacuum) of positively charged plates in the battery. If the charged periodically, those electrons will go back to ground and your battery will be dead. Did you think they evaporated or something? If you do not understand electronics, fine, but that is fact. Rubber sheets work even better. The ground of your battery is connected to the frame, and the kickstand is connected to the frame, this is where the drain occurs. If you disconnect both leads, new battery plastic does not conduct like old ones did, so a battery tender will be more efficient with the terminals disconnected. If you leave the terminals connected, make sure you check your electrolyte level, as that will lower, evaporating out through the battery drain port from the heat the charger creates.

Honestly, I don't really give a crap what you do with your motorcycle, put the side stand with some Borax, in a stainless steel pot. Dumbing down on this forum is tiring.

[rphillips]

Thanks Suzukian. I 'm always skeptical of things I've never heard in my 68 yrs., 69 as of tomorrow. I'd never heard this discharge through the Neg. side thing. A quick click on Google showed me bunches of places stating exactly what you said. I love learning, just hope I don't forget it, forgetting has gotten a lot easier to do, these past few yrs.

[Suzukian]

I turned 65 last November. My head is full of all these things, and just want to pass some of it on, because I feel the sand running out. I like to help people when I can. I enjoy learning even more.

A very HAPPY BIRTHDAY to you!!