Unfortunately, another pod post

[KiwiAlfa156]

As Zed1015 said with VM carbs air corrector jets are the solution.

Except the VMs fitted to Suzukis have air screws that control the air entering the pilot circuit, so air correction it by way of a flat bladed screwdriver. They also have a fuel (mixture) screw. From memory Kwaka fitted VMs had an air jet in the bell mouth with adjustment provided by only a fuel screw. The Suzuki VMs are a combination of both pilot systems shown below.

[zed1015]

Except the VMs fitted to Suzukis have air screws that control the air entering the pilot circuit, so air correction it by way of a flat bladed screwdriver. From memory Kwaka fitted VMs had an air jet in the bell mouth

The Kawasaki VM's have either just an air screw on the side or just a fuel screw underneath depending on year and model to adjust the pilot circuit with the VM26's having either and the vm28's solely only an air screw and never a fuel screw.
The Suzuki VM's whether vm22,24,26 or 28mm have both air and fuel screws present and they both control the pilot and pilot bypass circuit respectively.
All Suzuki and Kawasaki VM's have a pressed in main air jet in the mouth of the carb to supply air to the needle jet tube.
Air correctors do not adjust the pilot circuit but the main air supply to the needle jet tube when threaded and installed ahead of the pressed in main air jet and work in both Kawasaki and Suzuki VM.s as well as some Suzuki, Kawasaki and Yamaha CV's.

[KiwiAlfa156]

The Kawasaki VM's have either just an air screw on the side or just a fuel screw underneath to adjust the pilot circuit.
The Suzuki VM's have both fuel and air screws present and they both control the pilot and pilot bypass circuit.
All Suzuki and Kawasaki VM's have a pressed in main air jet in the mouth of the carb.
Air correctors do not adjust the pilot circuit but the main air supply to the needle jet tube when threaded and installed ahead of the pressed in main air jet and work in both Kawasaki and Suzuki VM.s.

Ah, thank you. I stand corrected. Air correction is for the main air bleed for the emulsion tube.

[zed1015]

Ah, thank you. I stand corrected. Air correction is for the main air bleed for the emulsion tube.

Yes! Correct.
The air correctors allow the same adjustabilty to the air bleed passage as is present on the VM smoothbore versions which are designed to operate without an airbox .

[Suzukian]

Posts # 31 thru # 34 were very educational. Very well explained. Thank You zed1015

[Rijko]

Posts # 31 thru # 34 were very educational. Very well explained. Thank You zed1015

second that

[unfocused]

Not sure how this got to this point however, let me explain. I custom built my filter housing based off of a FACTORY housing. I pulled out the center plate (the divider plate the the factory air filter installed on), built a new one with x3 2 1/8 exhaust pipe and 60mm pod filters. The bottom/rear was removed because the original opening is less than optimal.

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[unfocused]

This pic shows what was removed

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[unfocused]

The main reason I wanted to do this - The factory air box has factory velocity stacks. These are tuned into the original engine and I purchased new ones.
These assist with the hesitation noted when switching from factory air filter set up to pod filters.
The clean air chamber is fully sealed so I can ride in the rain ( hello, I live in Florida ).
3 pod filters are cheaper that a factory filter or replacement and these are washable - like I'll ever need to wash them...
As mentioned, this fits in the factory location with NO modifications needed to anything else. I also removed the engine breather tube and relocated it as shown.

The only noted issue is I'll need to protect the left side pod from the chain slinging all it's good stuff all over the place.
If it restricts the performance, I'll go a different direction. No one's getting hurt and it's not a waste of time to research your options. Especially when you can...

Not sure where others get off stating that it'll never work or it's a waste of time. It's not yours. You didn't research, do the needed work and you didn't install it.
Also, if my mechanical ability (40+ years of throwing wrenches at stupid people) isn't up to your expertise, then so be it, but keep your poor attitude to yourself.
This is a community and sharing is part of it even if you don't like it !!!

This is MY GS750 - bored out to an 844 and has several other goodies.
Then I have a GS710 in process - my build - my bike - going racing.
Let's not forget about the GS550 bobber that parts are being gathered up for.
Amazing how one can sit here and chastise others for doing what they're not doing...

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[unfocused]

Also, FTW - this is what I purchased in February of 2023.
I was riding it in May 2023
Thank You


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[zed1015]

Also, FTW - this is what I purchased in February of 2023.
I was riding it in May 2023
Thank You


Resized_20230216_174203.jpg

Most of mine started out like that and sometimes less
No unknown surprises from the previous owners efforts when you build from the ground up and you already know every inch if something does happen to cause trouble.
More than likely those three pods have much more surface area than the stock filter and you'd probably easily get away with just the two if you had to.
Sadly most folks round here are too inept to figure out there's only one induction event happening at a time and can't comprehend that you don't need the equivalent area of all four inlets when employing a shared air box.

[Suzukian]

That was nice of you to write this up. My 1975 had 4 rubber Velocity stacks built into the air box. When I converted that bike into a Kazio Yoshima Stage III 458cc racer, I used those velocity stacks without the air box. Why not, perfect fit. You've done what you've done, but I (and this is just my 2 cents worth of opinion) had made a foam box, dipped in oil (then wring out) filter block to fit into that opening and kept the velocity stacks, you would have had a better vacuum chamber for the carbs to take in the air. Essentially making the bike breathe better, and all the air coming from that inside of the foam box.

The problem with the kind of filters you have now is that if you don't oil them religiously, they will let in particulates and over the years, and will take a lot of life off of your rings. I have rebuilt many engines and is why I stopped using K&N filters, or any filter you have to lube. My stock '83 GS750ES recommends that you soak the foam filer in oil and wring all the oil out of it. That oil filters and it stays oily for many years. Neat idea though, keep those Air Filters nice, oiled and Red and you should be fine. There may be one event happening at a time, but the speed of the events increase and you end up needing a much larger volume to keep up with the vacuum generated. (IMHO)

[unfocused]

Someone always needs the last word to prove there worth...

[Suzukian]

Someone always needs the last word to prove there worth...

"it's their", not "there". speak English Hector.

[Cipher]

Someone always needs the last word to prove there worth...

Yup so whaddidAhWhin?