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82 1100e project running finally, idle needs some help

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    #1

    82 1100e project running finally, idle needs some help

    i finally got my 1100 put back together, it starts right up and runs strong, but definitely has an erratic idle.

    warmed up with choke, then choke off and set idle to just above 1k. it will slowly start to climb, so i rechecked all my seals and boots, everything is tight and seems to be oriented correctly. definitely had some spots where carb cleaner made a direct increase in rpm. thinking of getting some aftermarket hose clamps instead of the pinch point clamps. little more info.....

    1. full carb dip/cleaning and jet verification. everything is stock but i do have aftermarket 4-1 exhaust (cant afford stock 4-2 rn)
    2. brand new seals/boots from airbox to engine as well as pinch clamps.
    3. i did vacuum synch the carbs but never had it running long enough to notice the idle rise (avoiding overheat)
    4. adjusted fuel/air mixture to best throttle response, not highest rpm. i got it as lean as possible with best throttle response possible. (i forget how many turns im sittting at tbh. started at 2.5 and worked my way lean from there to minimize backfiring.)
    5. It does sound a little backfire-y/poppy but keep in mind the bike hasnt been rode in at least 2 years if not more. so im hoping the italian tuneup will help her knock the dust off a bit.

    Any tips/info would be appreciated, would love to stop spending 80 bucks to fill up my truck every week lol

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    #2
    Originally posted by wilsonsandy07 View Post
    ...some spots where carb cleaner made a direct increase in rpm...
    I think that's your only clue right now, so follow that.

    I also have an 11EZ, and it's a thing of beauty. Starts quickly, idles beautifully and pulls to redline like a bat out of hell (has pods and 4-into-1). So don't give up.
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

    2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.
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      #3
      Definitely will be chasing air leaks like crazy, cant wait to have it running smoothly man. i do still have pretty loud clutch rattle or possible starter bolt rattle under 1k rpm but im sending it for now. cant afford the HD clutch set up at the moment and im never really under 1k anyways so oh well.

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        #4
        Strongly agree with Rob S. If you confirmed that you have air leaks via some carb spray (I personally like to use an un-lit butane/propane torch to "sniff" around the carbs and boots), that is where you should focus your efforts. Only once you've sorted that out 100% should you be looking at anything else.
        Previous GS fleet: '78 1000C, '79 750E, '81 650G, '82 1100G, '81 1100E
        Other rides: '77 XS500C, '78 XS1100E

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          #5
          Alright update

          got rid of all the air leak. Much steadier idle but for some reason it wants to keep returning to 2k rpm. I keep setting it just above 1k and after a few minutes or after blipping the throttle it’ll come back down to 2k.

          another thing I noticed during carb Synch it didnt seem like I had enough vacuum. The write up bikecliffs site has about 24 cmHG I was only at about 14

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            #6
            The main thing is that it matches on each carb not the ultimate figure.... The Morgan Carbtune is a better tool than the gauges.

            If you keep returning to 2k I suspect you still have airleaks or you need to open the idle screws. I've never worked on one that didn't need richer settings than the manual calls for... (but I'm at sea level). The popping would also suggest that too.

            Could be your enrichment circuit is being held open (choke) or maybe the enrichment plungers are leaking fuel.... (there is a guy on here who refurbs them) but I would expect that to be pretty stable not climbing.

            The seal to carbs is important (as is the seal to the head) but the one to airbox is also important as well as checking that your airbox itself isn't leaking air at all the seams. What filter do you have? Is it foam? Is it oiled properly?
            1980 GS1000G - Sold
            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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              #7
              Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
              If you keep returning to 2k I suspect you still have airleaks...
              Agreed...........
              1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

              2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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                #8
                no air leaks detectable with carb cleaner anymore. gunna try the unlit butane to pinpoint. carbs were a huge bitch to put it and definitely possible not all my boots lined up perfect. Also suspect im running lean so may turn in my screws 1/4-1/2 turn and see what happens if theres for sure no leaks

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
                  The main thing is that it matches on each carb not the ultimate figure.... The Morgan Carbtune is a better tool than the gauges.

                  If you keep returning to 2k I suspect you still have airleaks or you need to open the idle screws. I've never worked on one that didn't need richer settings than the manual calls for... (but I'm at sea level). The popping would also suggest that too.

                  Could be your enrichment circuit is being held open (choke) or maybe the enrichment plungers are leaking fuel.... (there is a guy on here who refurbs them) but I would expect that to be pretty stable not climbing.

                  The seal to carbs is important (as is the seal to the head) but the one to airbox is also important as well as checking that your airbox itself isn't leaking air at all the seams. What filter do you have? Is it foam? Is it oiled properly?
                  i sealed the airbox with weater stripping, all new boots as well and running paper filter

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Try opening the screws to 3.5 turns... Check vacuum hoses for leaks. Check float height. Only other thing I can think of is the igniter box is shot & you have a weird advance number but I would still bet on an air leak. Good luck
                    1980 GS1000G - Sold
                    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
                    • Likes 1

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                      #11
                      Maybe 47.5 pilot jets
                      GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES
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                        #12
                        Vacuum "hoses", is there more than one?
                        1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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