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GS 1000 G - It mumbles from 3000 to 4000 rpm

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    #16
    Thanks everyone for the suggestions.
    I wouldn't trust resin too much, even if the products are excellent now, I'll try laser welding, I've seen some pictures and it's spectacular.
    As they say, one has to bang one's head to fully understand.
    Can anyone give me advice where to find the Horse L+R tube air cleaner outlet 1388145050000 + 1388245050000. It seems that they are impossible to find in Europe​
    Alex
    Mazda MX5 NB FLI
    Yamaha RD 350 YPVS
    Suzuki GS 550E
    Suzuki GS 1000G​

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      #17
      Alexander, note that this thread had been moved into the carbs/fuel/exhaust forum. The redirect from General Discussion will expire in one week.
      Believe in truth. To abandon fact is to abandon freedom.

      Nature bats last.

      80 GS850G / 2010 Yamaha Majesty / 81 GS850G

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        #18
        Greetings to everyone,
        There have been a lot of updates lately and one is worth mentioning.
        The broken carburetor led me to consider purchasing another set.
        I dive into eBay, I see two apparently perfect groups in Germany, they claim to be clean and in the photos they actually look perfect, complete with a tag containing a brief assessment of the condition, in short, an opportunity. First rip-off! the item will actually be shipped by a dishonest English company, I will pay the duties due to Brexit.
        They arrive, I pay, I open it and I see that the carburettors are not those in the photos but others, not as beautiful as I expected, with missing pieces, a broken jet inside.
        I sent him an angry message and he is sorry and offers me a partial refund, we're not there! and I ask him for a return with a refund, the chicken accepts.
        Before I put it off I'll plunder what I can and luckily the carburettor I needed is perfect! seen and taken! The imbeciles to remove the cap that covers the shaft of the butterfly cracked the seat, but nothing compromising, it's two-component.
        My carburetor with the column split and glued with the Attak, looks identical and I put it back INSIDE, what a pleasure!!!.
        Shipped and initial cost recovered, while customs unfortunately NO. This is state robbery, in fact there is no refund for taxes paid for non-EU purchases, on non-compliant or damaged items returned to the sender.
        So after all I returned to the initial state, with a few euros less.
        I order the float shafts, caps, float needle and gaskets, fuel mixing screw, clean all the jets and reassemble.
        In the meantime I find the filter box on ebay, mine was in bad shape and crooked, it arrives and is perfect as new with all the connectors as new and the clamps also perfect.
        In my opinion, the Jappo engineer who designed the filter box that day must have taken some mushrooms, making reassembling the filter box an odyssey.
        I turn it on and it drowns a bit, I adjust the idle and unscrew the fuel screws two and a half turns, I go for a test ride and still at half throttle it struggles and then it goes like the wind.
        I unscrew another half turn and it improves, I unscrew one more turn and it remains accelerated, at the moment I bring the screw back to three and a half, this seems to be the limit.
        Result, in acceleration if I give full throttle brutally it is perfect, if instead I accelerate in a constant and calm way, it always seems to have a gap around 3-4000 rpm, a little better than how it was initially as soon as it started, but we are always there, halfway gas feels like having a vacuum.
        At this point I have to think that the problem cannot be attributed only to the carburettor.
        I will look for a guru of these bikes to ask for advice and possibly optimal tuning​
        Alex
        Mazda MX5 NB FLI
        Yamaha RD 350 YPVS
        Suzuki GS 550E
        Suzuki GS 1000G​

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by Alexander View Post
          ...if I give full throttle brutally it is perfect, if instead I accelerate in a constant and calm way, it always seems to have a gap around 3-4000 rpm, a little better than how it was initially as soon as it started, but we are always there, halfway gas feels like having a vacuum...
          The 1982 (July?) Cycle World that reviewed the 11EZ mentions a similar problem with steady state throttle. I think they said it was a lean condition to comply with emissions. Solution: wide open throttle!
          1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

          2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

          Comment


            #20
            Isn't the mumble what happens when the airbox loses its snorkel?
            1978 GS 1000 (since new)
            1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
            1978 GS 1000 (parts)
            1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
            1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
            1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
            2007 DRz 400S
            1999 ATK 490ES
            1994 DR 350SES

            Comment


              #21

              I don't think that in 1980 the bikes were modified to comply with any pollution restrictions, but maybe I'm wrong and in any case it shouldn't have gaps during smooth acceleration.
              I've reached the point that when accelerating it drowns at low revs and then shoots up like a damn.
              Another thing I noticed is that candles 1 and 2 are white, while 3 and 4 are darker in color.
              At this point I replaced the pin screws of the OEM steel petrol with 2.5 turns and I notice that the sound changes, it drowns out immediately and crackles, I will have to carry out some more tests, screwing or unscrewing to find an optimal condition​
              Alex
              Mazda MX5 NB FLI
              Yamaha RD 350 YPVS
              Suzuki GS 550E
              Suzuki GS 1000G​

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by Alexander View Post
                I don't think that in 1980 the bikes were modified to comply with any pollution restrictions
                Is that just a feeling or did you research that ?
                The bikes are known for running lean due to emission laws ... since the 70's, actually

                Rijk

                Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread

                CV Carb rebuild tutorial
                VM Carb rebuild tutorial
                Bikecliff's website
                The Stator Papers

                "The thing about freedom - it's never free"

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                  #23

                  I didn't know this, thanks. I've had a few bikes and this behavior isn't normal. If it drowns and you're cornering at 2000/3000 rpm and you open the throttle but it doesn't respond well, it's painful. I think it's a setup of the fuel screws, but problems not related to carburetion can also come into play. But first I want to adjust these screws and see if anything changes to rule out them being the problem​
                  Alex
                  Mazda MX5 NB FLI
                  Yamaha RD 350 YPVS
                  Suzuki GS 550E
                  Suzuki GS 1000G​

                  Comment


                    #24
                    The snorkel is a "rubber" tube on the back of the airbox
                    Someone can chime in if the G has one

                    The idle mixture screws are for idle and off idle only
                    They should be about 2 1/2 turns from closed
                    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                    2007 DRz 400S
                    1999 ATK 490ES
                    1994 DR 350SES

                    Comment


                      #25
                      July '82 Cycle World review of 11E:

                      "Throttle response is good but there is a small amount of lean surge at steady-state cruising speeds and low throttle openings. It's feels as though the carb pistons are undecided as to where, exactly, they want to position themselves. At higher road speeds, during hard riding, or in the fast-slow transitions of daily riding no carb problem is evident and the throttle is quick and responsive."
                      1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                      2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Ciao Big T
                        The snorkel is a "rubber" tube on the back of the airbox
                        Someone can chime in if the G has one


                        At the back of the air box there is a rubber that conveys the air directly from the front to the hole in the back, it was glued and it wasn't in good shape! at the top a tube for recovering engine vapors.
                        While the rubber fittings on the carburettors, I am unable to insert them correctly, either they are not exactly those for the BS34SS or I cannot find the direction​

                        The idle mixture screws are for idle and off idle only
                        They should be about 2 1/2 turns from closed​


                        The least you say! I put some new screws with the blunt tip to have springs, O-ring and washer, it worked but at half throttle there was a vacuum, if I open everything suddenly it is less noticeable, playing with the screw moves the gap at low rpm, if I unscrew it 3/ 4 laps at the end it remains accelerated and I operate the idle knob but essentially it doesn't change much.
                        I put the OEM pins back in at 2.5 turns from fully closed and it doesn't idle, drowns on acceleration, sputters when releasing the gas.
                        I noticed that the exhaust of the first cylinder was delayed in reaching temperature compared to the others.​ I don't want there to be more than one problem, including the electrical one
                        Alex
                        Mazda MX5 NB FLI
                        Yamaha RD 350 YPVS
                        Suzuki GS 550E
                        Suzuki GS 1000G​

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Hi Rob,
                          "Throttle response is good but there is a small amount of lean surge at steady-state cruising speeds and low throttle openings. It's feels as though the carb pistons are undecided as to where, exactly, they want to position themselves. At higher road speeds, during hard riding, or in the fast-slow transitions of daily riding no carb problem is evident and the throttle is quick and responsive."

                          the carburettor pistons seemed to be in good condition and I left them, if anything I could have replaced the tip but this too seemed ok.
                          If it's not the carburetors and it's an electrical problem, could it be the stator?​
                          Alex
                          Mazda MX5 NB FLI
                          Yamaha RD 350 YPVS
                          Suzuki GS 550E
                          Suzuki GS 1000G​

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Even with a dead stator, my Kaw Z1 performed fully for several hours if the battery was fully charged.
                            1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                            2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              It seems that only the first owner saw these collectors, then no one else and for the G with mikuni BS34SS they are impossible to find, even the codes cannot be found and all those that are around, even if indicated for the G are from the GL , they look identical but are evidently not as decentralized as they should be, the GL is mechanically identical but has different carburettors, which is why the wheelbases do not match, especially the two lateral ones. However, with the silicone on the side where it gets air it solved the holes during acceleration,
                              initially described as thread title.
                              Now it seems to be going great, sometimes the clutch slips when engaging the torque,
                              but perhaps this depends on the synthetic oil, perhaps I'll put back the "rougher" mineral oil.​
                              Alex
                              Mazda MX5 NB FLI
                              Yamaha RD 350 YPVS
                              Suzuki GS 550E
                              Suzuki GS 1000G​

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by Alexander View Post
                                Now it seems to be going great, sometimes the clutch slips when engaging the torque,
                                but perhaps this depends on the synthetic oil, perhaps I'll put back the "rougher" mineral oil.​
                                Synthetics don't make clutches slip.
                                De-glaze the plates and fit new OEM springs.
                                ---- Dave

                                Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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