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Ok the needle jets and seats are brand new but ive checked them again today .. only thing im wondering is where the float tab touches the pin on the jet is that the actual needle jet looks too far down the seat . The tabs on the floats look too far bent down when inverted and probably not closing far enough . The rebuild kit i got with the bike may not be suitableOriginally posted by dgates1 View Post
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Hello yes the o rings have been replaced , Everything i took apart today to bare bones was very clean . Ive not replaced the inlet rubbers but they are on order . Starting or trying to run on choke makes no difference . maybe i need to inspect the height of the needle jets and seats then go from there . Compare them to the used worn jets .Originally posted by Rijko View Posti'd focus on the flooding first.
Only 1 cause for that : the float needles do not shut off for whatever reason.
Floats not moving, float needles stuck, floats at wrong height, something like that.
You have replaced the o-rings between inlet rubbers and head ?
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sounds like a plan, maybe even stick the old float seats and needles back in to see if that changes things.
it's a bit messy but if you place the carb rack (without the bowls mounted) on a stand above a tray and feed it gas, you can manually check each carb simply by lifting its float and see if the fuel stops flowing.
Just remembered .. i have seen new o-rings on the float needle seat that were too small and would not seal, and leak.
Something else to check.
So here i go swallowing my "Only 1 cause for that"
Last edited by Rijko; 12-16-2024, 03:43 PM.Rijk
Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread
CV Carb rebuild tutorial
VM Carb rebuild tutorial
Bikecliff's website
The Stator Papers
"The thing about freedom - it's never free"
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I did blow through the fuel inlet with the float bowls off to see if the air stopped when lifting up each float , and it did stop the flow but im sure the float was too high . I will try the fuel method today to double check . The seals on the seats were new but the seats came out too easily so will replace those together with the intake o rings and go from there and report back soonOriginally posted by Rijko View Postsounds like a plan, maybe even stick the old float seats and needles back in to see if that changes things.
it's a bit messy but if you place the carb rack (without the bowls mounted) on a stand above a tray and feed it gas, you can manually check each carb simply by lifting its float and see if the fuel stops flowing.
Just remembered .. i have seen new o-rings on the float seat that were too small and would not seal, and leak.
Something else to check.
So here i go swallowing my "Only 1 cause for that"

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check this thread, should be helpful : https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...gm-replacementRijk
Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread
CV Carb rebuild tutorial
VM Carb rebuild tutorial
Bikecliff's website
The Stator Papers
"The thing about freedom - it's never free"
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Just waiting for new slide diaphragms . In the meantime ive 3 different size needle seats and needles . Number 2 is the ones that came in the carbs and the other numbers 1 and 3 are from different kits . All look different
IMG_20241216_121742.jpg Different height on the needles and seats ?
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ITS ALIVE !!!!!!!
Good news at last . I nearly gave up but i was watching ytube video of something i had not tried . Lowering the needle height to the lowest groove on the slides . Started straight up !!
I may have to go one more higher as the throttle response is a bit iffy although i was just starting it without the air box on .
Maybe of some use to people to try what i have done and hope it helps .
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