Grime in Valve Cover

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I gave you one site above. Partshark.com. Or you can just get the part numbers from there and visit your local Suzuki dealer. BTY, 2 of the bolts for your valve cover are longer than the others.

Be sure to get 4 new dowty washer # 6. There are 2 under each the outside screws. As an alternative, I've used the rubber lined washers that come on metal roofing srews from the hardware store. You have to flatten them with a hammer first as they come convex.

[stossboss_gaming_and_news]

When I first started asking about the process here, was told by those who replied that it’s a “feel” thing. And I suppose if one has been wrenching on such things their whole life, It likely is a “feel” thing. But what if you (I) don’t have the experience?

This is what I'm mad at myself for, I have a lot of experience installing/removing/assembling IT/networking equipment and I definitely felt it over-tightening but against my own instincts I trusted some crappy tool (and even that the spec is 6-7ft/lbs so I thought I was on the safer side). In tech there is just so much money and people are so lazy, idiots will install 10-15k worth of equipment in a rack with a drill set to full torque then come time to remove it the 2 minutes they save ends up costing someone a full day or worse, theres no time to remove it and you have to abandon thousands of $$ worth of good equipment that will never be used.

[stossboss_gaming_and_news]

BTY, 2 of the bolts for your valve cover are longer than the others.

my 4 middle bolts are also longer but it doesn't mention that in the book.

[rphillips]

I had to look up flush cutter, I'd not heard that name before. Around here they're dikes... Glad got it sorted with way less trouble than I've had.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Not sure what book you're looking at. Look at the diagram from partshark at the link above. # 3 part # 01550-0640A is a 40mm bolt that goes where shown in the front left (as sitting on bike) and I'm pretty sure in the opposite right rear corner. I'll try to confirm that later. I have a cardboard template at home that I'm pretty sure has the bolts in it from a project I never completed. 14 of the # 4 01550-0635A. I believe that's all 16 of the cover bolts. Parts list does call for 6 of the 40mm # 3 but I can;t remember where they all go. I can look later if you still need help.

This is why, when we take things like this apart, we put them in a template to keep things straight.

[stossboss_gaming_and_news]

So everything back together and it's still failing to start.

Spark - Ignition coils and spark plugs were replaced (I replaced one bad coil last year). Spark is present in all cylinders. Battery was fully charged and measured 12.6
Air/Fuel - Cleaned and bench-synced carbs. One was rebuilt with a k&l kit. Air screws set to 2.5 turns from bottom. All valves adjusted to meet spec. As I had tank removed (cleaned that too), I gravity fed with a water bottle and plugged the vacuum line.
Compression - I did not test this, but it ran last year.

Tried choke open and closed to same result, cranking about average; it isn't sluggish nor quick but engine doesn't start.

My next steps will be recharging battery, testing it while trying to start (under load), reconnecting the tank and using the vacuum on the petcock. I'm unaware if I'm appropriately supplying the fuel or it is flooding in some way and possibly that's why it's not starting, so I will hook the tank up and stand it up nearby. Borrowing a carbtune from a friend and plan to do that as well once I get it running.

My question is, is there anything I'm missing and am I on the right path? I really want to elevate my skills above spamming "cant start" threads.

[pdqford]

After trying to start it, I’d pull the spark plugs and see if they are wet with fuel or dry.
If dry you prolly have a fueling issues.
If wet with fuel prolly a spark issues.

Additionally, place the spark plug on the cylinder head with spark plug wire attached and try and start it.
If it throws a blue spark you prolly have a fueling issues.
If no spark you you have an ignition problem.

[rphillips]

Just wondering? Did you give it a shot of starting fluid?

[stossboss_gaming_and_news]

Just wondering? Did you give it a shot of starting fluid?

I gave that a few tries today along with my other additions, able to start for a couple seconds but battery quickly drained. Cranking at 10.4V which I imagine is low on the acceptable range.

[stossboss_gaming_and_news]

After trying to start it, I’d pull the spark plugs and see if they are wet with fuel or dry.
if dry you prolly have a fueling issues.
if wet with fuel prolly a spark issues.

additionally, place the spark plug on the cylinder head with spark plug wire attached and try and start it.
if it throws a blue spark you prolly have a fueling issues.
if no spark you you have an ignition problem.

When i tested spark initially it wasn't very blue, more orange than anything - and it was dusky out. I'll do the plug checks when it gets a little warmer out, the cold returned and i'm working outside

[rphillips]

No, 10.4 V is way below the acceptable range. If eng. starts and tries to run a few sec. on starting fluid, that's a strong indication your carbs are the problem. If carbs supply correct fuel, eng. will run on that fuel same as on starting fluid... As always just my opinion, I don't guarantee anything... keep us updated.