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I just went through this. If soaking and heat don't get it, you can machine a new slot using a Dremel. Some use the cut-off wheel to slot it, right through the tower. I used a tiny end mill to machine a new slot without cutting the tower. Either way, I'm afraid the mangled screw head is going to damage the threads in the body on the way out. Keep trying, but be prepared to look for new carb bodies.
BTW, are they all stuck, or just a few? Some of us have relatively intact BS34SS carb bodies in the garage. For example, I think I have a #2 that you could transfer jets, etc. into.Dogma
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'80 GS850 GLT
'80 GS1000 GT
'01 ZRX1200R
How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex
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If this is on a CV-type carb, are you talking about the idle mixture adjustment screw on the top of the outlet of the carb?
If so, I have used a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut a slot down the length of the tower that holds the screw, and cut a new slot in the top of the screw. I have read that others have cut sideways, shortening the height of the tower, then cut the slot, but I have not found that to be necessary. I have had no problems removing the screw with the fresh slot, nor have I had problems putting either that same screw or another one back in.
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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I am not talking about the idle mixture screw. I am talking about the small idle JET that is inside the float bowl area. The small brass idle jet that sits way down inside the post, next to the main jet. I doubt I'd want to slot THAT post all the way down. I'm thinking of trying the easy out idea. Otherwise, I guess I'm up poop creek. And they are stuck in two of the carb bodies. I went ahead and soaked the whole carb body of one of them last night over night and part of today, so I'm wondering, event though the screwdriver slot is messed up, if it would be ok leaving as is?? I guess it would depend on whether any shavings got down inside the port, and if the side holes of the little jet got cleared in the overnight soak. Why is it always something???...Current Bikes:
2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)
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OK, that changes things a little bit, but at least that is one of the best jets to leave in place. There are no o-rings behind that jet, and it should be open enough to allow "the dip" to flow through and clean the passages. You definitely don't want to slot the tower to cut a new slot in the top of that jet.
On the other hand, if you have tried drilling AT ALL, you have probably already changed the flow characteristics, so you are pretty much commited to getting it out. Before you use EZ-outs, try a set of left-handed drills. Start with one that is a couple of sizes smaller than the bore, just to ensure that you dont bugger up the threads. The hole in the jet should keep you centered. EZ-outs work by wedging in to a hole. That wedging action on a small brass jet will just push the edges harder into the threads. Using a drill bit will just bite in, without the wedge, and might just turn it out.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Ok, since I haven't tried drilling or anything else other than trying to get it out with a screwdriver and messing up the slot, I'm going to leave those suckers in there and hope that the "dip" opened things up enough. I also blasted some spray can carb cleaner through there, so hopefully that was enough. Thanks, all, for the help! Other than this, all is going good. I also went ahead and ordered a new set of socket head screws for the tops and float bowls. I hate the phillips head screws. Plus, I just got done reading about the Japanese phillips head screwdriver I should have been using, but didn't know I needed. Figures.Current Bikes:
2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)
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That's a pilot jet. I'd get it out and change it. The hole is very teeny and can clog easily.
What size is it. I probably have an extra.Last edited by chef1366; 03-22-2010, 10:47 PM.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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almarconi
Why is it always something???...
You want to use a hollow ground flat blade screwdriver, like a gunsmith screwdriver. If the slot is already buggered up, I would suggest drilling the jet out with a left hand drill bit. Use plenty of PB blaster and heat. I have removed jets by using a drill to make a pilot hole and then wedging a torx bit into the jet and turning it out. If all else fails you may just want to replace the entire carb body.
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Easy out and heat will work. It's one of the only things I will use the Never Outs for.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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almarconi
Every time I have ever used a small diameter easy out, it has broken off in the piece I was trying to remove
I'd rather try my luck with a left hand drill bit.
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With the pilot jets the hole is already centered. Drill it out as big as you can without hitting the threads.
Install the easy out. Before putting torque on it heat the area will with a torch. Don't be shy with the heat.
It'll come right out.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Originally posted by chef1366 View PostThat's a pilot jet. I'd get it out and change it. The hole is very teeny and can clog easily.
What size is it. I probably have an extra.
I've had bad luck with easy outs breaking off in the part as well, so I'm a little gun shy about it. But, I'll think it over in the next couple days and decide.
And, yes, it IS supposed to be easy......out. Right?
Oh, by the way, I seemed to have misplaced my hollow gunsmith screwdriver. Anybody have one? (kidding)Current Bikes:
2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)
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