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    #1

    pilot jet removal on bike

    like the title says .... has any one had success removing the pilot jet with the carbs installed ..... the carb in question is carb 3 ..... its not firing at idle .... but will come in later in the rpm..... carbs have been rebuilt and diped....

    i have also verrified that its not a spark issue..... (swaped plugs and wires to no change)

    TIA
    Tags: None
    #2
    It also may not be the pilot jet. It could be the ports from the pilot air jet to pilot jet to idle mixture screw. Lots of little ports.
    If you can get the bowl off with the carbs on the engine than I'd say you can get the pilot jet out.
    Did you bench sync the carbs?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      yea i benched them .... but i had to get a little rough with them during install so i think i may have moved the carbs on the gang plate.....

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by sk843143 View Post
        yea i benched them .... but i had to get a little rough with them during install so i think i may have moved the carbs on the gang plate.....
        No way can you move those carbs on the rails unless you didn't tighten them down.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          they were tight .... so eather i have done a ****ty job syncing or cleaning carb num 3

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            #6
            I always blow carb cleaner through the pilot air jet (the removeable jet on the filter side) and it should come out the pilot jet hole. Blow carb cleaner into the idle mixture area and it should come out the venturi. Plug the venturi and it should come out the pilot jet hole.
            This is how the pilot circuit works
            Air is forced into the pilot air jet and pulls fuel out of the bowl through the main jet. Since the main jet is blocked by the needle jet it is diverted into the pilot jet. (Think of sucking on a straw) After the pilot jet the fuel mixes with the air from the pilot air jet and goes through the idle mixture screw where it is metered by the amount of turns out on the screw. Then it goes into the venturi and is sucked into the engine.
            Could you see light when looking through the pilot jet?
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment

              #7
              every thing looked good ..... but i could have missed something ..... (had a family emergency in the middle of the cleaning prosess) .... guess ill have to check the pilot jet tomarow..... hope i dont have to take the carbs off agen

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                #8
                Scuse me please, but don't the carbs come off in about two minutes on a 1100L?
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

                Comment

                  #9
                  well maby for some but for me it takes a little longer ..... and putting them back on is more of a bitch lol

                  that and i dont wana take a chance on ripping a boot.....

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Sounds like you could use new boots, they are supposed to be soft and pliable.
                    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                    Life is too short to ride an L.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                      Scuse me please, but don't the carbs come off in about two minutes on a 1100L?
                      With K&N pods!
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Removing pilot jets with carbs installed

                        Originally posted by sk843143 View Post
                        like the title says .... has any one had success removing the pilot jet with the carbs installed ..... the carb in question is carb 3 ..... its not firing at idle .... but will come in later in the rpm..... carbs have been rebuilt and diped....

                        i have also verrified that its not a spark issue..... (swaped plugs and wires to no change)

                        TIA
                        Recently my 1982 GS1100G started idling poorly and was very ragged at 1/4 throttle. I ruled out everything else and knew that the problem was the carbs. These carbs are generally in good shape, so I didn't want to go through the hassle of removing all of the carbs.

                        While the bike was idling, I checked the temperature of the exhaust headers with an infrared heat sensor. One of the exhaust pipes was much colder than the others, so I now knew which carb. was the problem

                        The first thing I did was remove the needle for adjusting the idle mixture (this is the needle and jet that are located between the carb. and engine cylinder). I made sure that the jet was clear and blew a lot of carb cleaner and air through it. This didn't help at all.

                        There is a second, non-adjustable idle jet located above the float bowl. I removed the float bowl. There is a rubber plug that covers this jet, so I removed this plug. There isn't much clearance under the carbs, so I had to cut the handle off of a small screwdriver. I filed the screwdriver blade to ensure that it had square edges and fit the jet tightly. I was then able to unscrew the idle jet. I looked at it with a magnifying glass and saw that it was completely plugged (even though the rest of the carb and floatbowl were spotless).

                        I cleared the jet with a very fine wire and blew it out with carb cleaner. After I got everything back together, the carb issue was fixed! The only problem was that this carb now operated much better than the other carbs, so I ended up removing the idle jets for all four carbs. They were all at least partially plugged up. The bike now runs great!

                        This process took some patience, but it was much easier than removing the carbs.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          yes exactly with pods it would b cake ..... with stock airbox ...... its a bitch

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