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    shimming carb question

    Is this something you do only with CV carbs or does it relate also to VM Carbs? I am having a hesitation between 4 and 5000 rpm on the bike and am wondering if this may relate to my problem. I am also changing out all of the vacuum tubing with new to see if this makes a difference. (As far as I can tell the vacuum tubing to my petcock and the breather hose is original with the bike so I am changing that out for new just on general principles) My problem does seem to be getting a bit better as I ride it more but the bike is still very cold blooded and I havent been able to get the idle down to 1100 to 1250 yet on my 79 GS 750L in addition to the above problems. It has new O rings, valve shims done and new petcock from Z1---Old one was shot.

    I have not done recent plug chops but the plugs when I pull them are tannish to slightly white.

    Thanks for any thoughts

    #2
    VMs should have notches in the needle for adjustmenst so no need to shim.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
      VMs should have notches in the needle for adjustmenst so no need to shim.
      True that VM's have notches for the needle but with mine I went one notch down to richen it and wasnt quite enough and a whole notch seemed a bit much...so I used feeler gauge material and made 4 "shims" and used those under the needle clip to get between the 2 notches..


      DDM

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        #4
        I use washers for 1/2 notches.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          Do you guys think this will help the cold bloodedness as well? I have to run the bike with the choke on at 3/4 to 1/2 for about five minutes before the throttle will work. Prior to that it bogs down and wants to die if I try to throttle at all. But once the throttle works then I am able to get going and within 10 minutes it acts more normal, although I dont seem to be getting the acceleration that I think I should be getting.

          Thanks

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            #6
            Adjusting your needles will help with operation on the road.

            To help with your "cold-bloodedness", turn the pilot fuel screw (the one on the bottom of the carb) out about 1/8 turn. You will have to also re-adjust the air screw on the side of the carb for proper mixture, but adding a bit of fuel to the pilot will help considerably.

            .
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              #7
              Thanks Steve

              I will try that and see what I get

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