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    gas gauge always on empty...

    While my bike is down for a couple days waiting for parts I'd figure I'd attack this as well. Can anyone confirm that this



    is what I need to do, or is this repair for a different problem.

    thanks

    #2
    My gauge doesn't work either. Just use your trip odometer

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      #3
      I do, but if I can make it work I want to.

      Comment


        #4
        Hi,

        I replaced the bullet connectors on my fuel gauge connections with spade connectors. Here you see the old bullet connectors.



        Have you removed the float assembly and tested for variable resistance as you move the float up and down? It's not hard to remove.
















        Thank you for your indulgence,

        BassCliff

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          #5
          It could also be the servo/potentometer in the gauge cluster..I believe the way to test that is to run a resistor across the two fuel gauge wires, and it should read something... I think mine is bunk.. My gauge has never worked..and it kind of bums me out cause everything ELSE on the cluster does (well, my electronic tach is a big fat liar sometimes, but other than that)

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            #6
            I won't be able to check what I did till I get the parts I'm waiting on, but here is something I found.

            there is a screw that screws into the float arm and holds the pick up. instead of bending the pick up I loosened the screw, pushed it down so the pick up made clear contact and screwed it back down. it makes firm noticeable contact now.

            Cliff, I have started replacing the connectors, well actually duane has. But I will continue the process...

            its not a deal breaker to get this working. However, since I'm down for a week anyway why not try to get some things done, and I'd just like it to have it working. Know what I mean?

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              #7
              Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
              It could also be the servo/potentometer in the gauge cluster..I believe the way to test that is to run a resistor across the two fuel gauge wires, and it should read something... I think mine is bunk.. My gauge has never worked..and it kind of bums me out cause everything ELSE on the cluster does (well, my electronic tach is a big fat liar sometimes, but other than that)
              I have two clusters, would suck if neither one worked... if what I did doesn't work I will try the other cluster.

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                #8
                If it is the sending unit, yes.

                I would also check the guage/wiring per the manual for you bike.

                This is from the 83' 750E, for example. I would bet most if not all are the same on these older bikes.




                More resistance equals less fuel like bad connections where it plugs in under the tank, or where it is wired to the guage it self.

                Connecting the wires on the harness side with a jumper will tell you if all is good from the connector to the guage. This basically should put it into the 1-5Ω range (less resistance), and will read 'FULL' if all is well.

                Then, if you have access, use a multi-meter on the sending unit. You should see the Ωs change as the float is moved up (1-5Ω/decrease), or down (100-120Ω/increase).

                Basically reverse in thought, but if the sending unit is the issue, and the Ωs are not changing per the manual proceed with the link.

                E

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by tejasmud View Post
                  If it is the sending unit, yes.

                  I would also check the guage/wiring per the manual for you bike.

                  This is from the 83' 750E, for example. I would bet most if not all are the same on these older bikes.




                  More resistance equals less fuel like bad connections where it plugs in under the tank, or where it is wired to the guage it self.

                  Connecting the wires on the harness side with a jumper will tell you if all is good from the connector to the guage. This basically should put it into the 1-5Ω range (less resistance), and will read 'FULL' if all is well.

                  Then, if you have access, use a multi-meter on the sending unit. You should see the Ωs change as the float is moved up (1-5Ω/decrease), or down (100-120Ω/increase).

                  Basically reverse in thought, but if the sending unit is the issue, and the Ωs are not changing per the manual proceed with the link.

                  E
                  Sweet, Thanks for that info! Im gonna have to give that a shot myself.. But what I really wanna know is how did you get the lil OHM symbol to appear?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                    Sweet, Thanks for that info! Im gonna have to give that a shot myself.. But what I really wanna know is how did you get the lil OHM symbol to appear?

                    Press the 'Alt' key and hold it down, then 234

                    Then release the 'Alt" key.

                    Gives you an Ω.

                    Alt 248 gives a degree mark, °

                    But,

                    Here is a good list of ASCII, and Extended ASCII.

                    The Extended is what I use most often, most symbols.

                    Ascii character table - What is ascii - Complete tables including hex, octal, html, decimal conversions




                    E
                    Last edited by Guest; 04-21-2010, 08:10 PM.

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