electrolysis and a power supply question

[indyjoel]

hi have gone thru two battery charges:
1. a cheap
2. a reasonable

both start supplying power and then switch off as they think the battery is full.

My new plan is to actually charge a battery with the battery charger whilst connecting a set of leads from the battery to the tank and electrode.

This way the battery should keep drawing a charge as it is being used by the electrolysis.

Any thoughts or dramas with this plan?

[Steve]

I have not done this, but from what I have read, it is the constant application of LOW-CURRENT power that does the job. Most chargers will put out 2, 6 or 10 amps, and I have heard that the lower settings do better. A battery will put out whatever the conductive path will allow, so, if you use a battery, you might have a flash of a couple hundred amps for a few seconds.

While it's true that you won't have any more rust, it's also possible that you won't have any more tank.

Were either (or both) of the chargers you used "automatic" chargers? I'm guessing that they were, because they shut off. Look for a "manual" charger. It will adjust the output a bit, based on load, but will always put out, unless it's asked to put out so much current that it trips the internal circuit breaker.

.

[Nessism]

How about useing some electrical load in the circuit to make sure current flows? I have a home zinc plating setup and use turn signals to control the current flow - Use three signals and you will get about 3-4 amps.

[tkent02]

You have to use a cheapo non automatic charger, the old fashioned kind that is just on whenever it is plugged in.
The current requirement depends on what you are working on, usually slower is better. It will vary with the size and how much rust is on the annode, surface area, content of soda in the water, other variables.
You just want to see some slow bubbling.
Stick your finger in the water and get a tingle, not a zap.