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    seized pilot screws

    anyone ever have them? I tried to adjust mine and discovered that one had a stripped out head. I tried a few things but finally drilled it and used an extractor, but wound up breaking the carb body.

    So, I bought another set of carbs, but all four air screws are seized. I don't want to go through this process again. So I was wondering what anyone has tried. Penetrating oil? blowtorch?

    thanks
    1983 GS1100E

    #2
    I think chef1366 uses PB blaster and heat

    Comment


      #3
      Send both sets to me and I'll hook you up with a good set
      OR
      Before you bugger the notch on the head of the screws take a blow torch and heat up the body where the screw sits. If you have buggered up the notch dremmel off the port leading to the head of the screw and put a new notch in it with the dremmel. Heat it up!
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by posplayr View Post
        I think chef1366 uses PB blaster and heat
        Oh yeah and penetrating oil. Boil it into the threads.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment


          #5
          After trying PB blaster/heat and stripping the notch, I got mine out by taking an extractor and inserting it in the middle... A few swift taps from a hammer and I could get them out with my fingers, Good luck!

          Comment


            #6
            thanks for the ideas, guys. I'll give them a shot
            1983 GS1100E

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              #7
              Yeah, same goes for me. Thanks for the tips, going to have to try them later today, maybe. I buggered my pilot screw pretty badly, that'll teach me to try and rush things. Only internal part that was tough to get out though, everything else came out easy. Pulled the needle valve seat out with my fingers, and the needle jet came I was able to push out with my pinkie. Slides, well, they just slid out, easy as if they were buttered. I got a bit cocky, and figured the pilots were going to be as easy. That was dumb.

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                #8
                Maybe we all ought to put some rubber plugs in those pilot screw towers to keep rainwater and other grit out of there. Or maybe just some light grease in there.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Wow, i guess I really lucked out. I used a properly fitted screwdriver and the first one came out like nothing! I am working on one carb at a time so I am hoping that the second one is just as easy. My biggest problem so far was removing the needle seat retaining bracket. I used a 240W soldering gun and some WD-40 until I heard the metal expanding. After that it was easy.

                  BTW, does anyone have a source for new replacement float bowl drain screws?



                  Thanks, Mark

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by fgrable@sbcglobal.net View Post
                    Maybe we all ought to put some rubber plugs in those pilot screw towers to keep rainwater and other grit out of there. Or maybe just some light grease in there.
                    Mine had the factory rubber caps on them, and they were the only part that gave me trouble.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      A racer friend told me to put a little RTV in the hole.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment

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