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    Yet another carb problem...

    Decided to check my float heights while waiting on pilot jets since I didn't do that before. I didn't even notice this, but three of my float valve needles are jammed up...meaning the little part sticking out of the needle that contacts the float tab, which is supposed to be spring loaded, is stuck. They do not push in and spring back. Just stuck out. So, I have the float needles soaking in carb solution again in hopes that they'll get freed up. Only one of them is working properly. Sure glad I discovered that since it prevents the bowls from filling up completely and most likey has some kind of effect on the way the bike runs.
    Current Bikes:
    2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

    #2
    Originally posted by ddaniels View Post
    Decided to check my float heights while waiting on pilot jets since I didn't do that before. I didn't even notice this, but three of my float valve needles are jammed up...meaning the little part sticking out of the needle that contacts the float tab, which is supposed to be spring loaded, is stuck. They do not push in and spring back. Just stuck out. So, I have the float needles soaking in carb solution again in hopes that they'll get freed up. Only one of them is working properly. Sure glad I discovered that since it prevents the bowls from filling up completely and most likey has some kind of effect on the way the bike runs.
    For sure. I'd have to look at it again (its tough transposing this stuff in your head. When you're working on the float bowl area you're working upside down, and Im not good with flipping the action in my head ) But it would either keep the carbs from filling up, or allow them to fill up MORE. Either way, its going to screw up your mixture. Too little fuel, the combustion is starved, and will be hot and lean. Too much, its wet, rich, and limp and sloggy. Not to mention, if it doesnt allow them to shut off, you might end up with fuel in your oil. That, obviously, is no good atall. The carb dip might go a ways in freeing up those little springs if they're filled with varnished snott gas. But, one other thing to inspect on those float valve needles is the tip. If there is a groove worn into it, they wont seal properly, and you may be better off buying new from Z1 anyway... Just a suggestion. Take it for what its worth

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      #3
      Definitley a good suggestion. I did check that out and no groove. As I see it, By those nipples not being able to retract into the needle, the floats are kept from going "down" as far as they could. Which, when the carbs are right side up, it keeps them from going "up" as far as they could. Which also means the needles will close off too early meaning less fuel in the bowls.

      On a side note, As I was checking the float heights, it seems like the one on the right side of the bowls has the potential to run into the channel that carries fuel from the pilot jet around to where it comes out in the throat. This was happening on a couple of my carbs. Not sure what to think of that.
      Current Bikes:
      2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by ddaniels View Post
        Definitley a good suggestion. I did check that out and no groove. As I see it, By those nipples not being able to retract into the needle, the floats are kept from going "down" as far as they could. Which, when the carbs are right side up, it keeps them from going "up" as far as they could. Which also means the needles will close off too early meaning less fuel in the bowls.

        On a side note, As I was checking the float heights, it seems like the one on the right side of the bowls has the potential to run into the channel that carries fuel from the pilot jet around to where it comes out in the throat. This was happening on a couple of my carbs. Not sure what to think of that.
        Ok.. I think that makes sense.. I had to stand on my head for a minute to envision it I supposed it would make a difference too whether the nipple was stuck UP, or stuck DOWN too.. no matter, shouldnt be either.

        As far as the other bit, Id have to see what you're talking about to get what you're saying. I dont think ive ever run into any problems with floats blocking anything off..

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
          Ok.. I think that makes sense.. I had to stand on my head for a minute to envision it I supposed it would make a difference too whether the nipple was stuck UP, or stuck DOWN too.. no matter, shouldnt be either.

          As far as the other bit, Id have to see what you're talking about to get what you're saying. I dont think ive ever run into any problems with floats blocking anything off..
          No, they're not blocking anything off. I don't really think I can explain it, so maybe I'll go take a picture.
          Current Bikes:
          2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

          Comment


            #6
            The float is hitting the humped up area circled in red with an arrow pointing at it. I said it wrong before. Its not coming from the pilot at all.
            Current Bikes:
            2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

            Comment


              #7
              Wow those look mighty tidy in that pic. But I see what you're saying. Actually some people sometimes have some problems with the floats sticking around those. But IIRC correctly there is a tang that should keep the float from going to high no? I've had my head in VM carbs for the last couple weeks so I can't recall. Had to retrain myself on those it's been so long since I messed with a set in earnest. Ha! But now that the 750 is up and running aside from brakes I need to pull Roses 550 carbs again and try to figure out why it's running rich on the pilots even with the adjustment screws darn near closed. Jets are numbered as stock, but some jerkoff may have drilled them out. Who knows? It never ends around here it seems. Can't complain though. I'd prolly go crazy if I didn't have something to tinker on. Never had a problem with stock carbs running rich before though. Always the other way around.

              Comment


                #8
                Their is a tab to keep them from going to high and Too low... SO check how the float is bent

                Comment


                  #9
                  Hit the valves with a little heat. I've seen the old gas come out like rat turds.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Are you sure that the needle valves have spring insets?

                    Some float needles aren't spring loaded. It's possible that a PO has mixed up the needles from another carb. Not common, but possible. Many early model float needles are not spring loaded.
                    :) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

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                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by 49er View Post
                      Are you sure that the needle valves have spring insets?

                      Some float needles aren't spring loaded. It's possible that a PO has mixed up the needles from another carb. Not common, but possible. Many early model float needles are not spring loaded.
                      Pretty sure. I was able to push one in, but it wouldn't pop back out. So, I think they're just stuck. I'll have to try the heat trick. tonight if the soak doesn't fix it. If not, no biggie, I'll get some new ones. Only $20 for six of them from Z1.

                      When you say there's a tab that prevents them from going too high or too low, what tab is it. Where is it on the float? Check how it's bent where? Thanks!
                      Current Bikes:
                      2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                        Wow those look mighty tidy in that pic. But I see what you're saying. Actually some people sometimes have some problems with the floats sticking around those. But IIRC correctly there is a tang that should keep the float from going to high no? I've had my head in VM carbs for the last couple weeks so I can't recall. Had to retrain myself on those it's been so long since I messed with a set in earnest. Ha! But now that the 750 is up and running aside from brakes I need to pull Roses 550 carbs again and try to figure out why it's running rich on the pilots even with the adjustment screws darn near closed. Jets are numbered as stock, but some jerkoff may have drilled them out. Who knows? It never ends around here it seems. Can't complain though. I'd prolly go crazy if I didn't have something to tinker on. Never had a problem with stock carbs running rich before though. Always the other way around.
                        Are you sure screwing the mixture screws in on the 550 is for leaner? I don't know how it's ported, but that's not making sense in my head.
                        Current Bikes:
                        2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by ddaniels View Post
                          Pretty sure. I was able to push one in, but it wouldn't pop back out. So, I think they're just stuck. I'll have to try the heat trick. tonight if the soak doesn't fix it. If not, no biggie, I'll get some new ones. Only $20 for six of them from Z1.

                          When you say there's a tab that prevents them from going too high or too low, what tab is it. Where is it on the float? Check how it's bent where? Thanks!
                          Your carbs don't have the tabs; they are part of the tab that hold the float needle into the carb body.

                          You did take those carbs all the way apart and dip the carb bodies right? Spray carb cleaner spray though all the passages after rinsing to make sure all the passages are open?

                          Sometimes you have to force those spring tip to move when they get glued up like that. Push the needle in and work it in and out after some more soaking in carb dip. Takes a while but you will get it. Unfortunately sometimes the needle spring sags and doesn't support the weight of the float anymore - that it a sign that they should be replaced.
                          Ed

                          To measure is to know.

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                            #14
                            Yes, I took them all apart and dipped them and let them soal for 24 hours each, then rinsed, sprayed and hit with air. Everything is clear in the carb bodies.

                            Hopefully, these springs will be ok. If not, I'll get new needles. Thanks!
                            Current Bikes:
                            2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by ddaniels View Post
                              Are you sure screwing the mixture screws in on the 550 is for leaner? I don't know how it's ported, but that's not making sense in my head.
                              Yup In on the CV carbs is always leaner. On the VM carbs you have a separate control screw over the fuel and air. The combo of these two adjust the premix that the pilot circuit takes up. On the CV carbs, its pre-mixed. You only have control over how much of THAT mix comes from the pilot. Out on the screw opens the port in the carb throat more and more. In shuts it.

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