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1982 GS550L Project

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    1982 GS550L Project

    Alright, decided to make one thread for my bike, to get it running correctly. 1982 GS550L bought it with 32,000 miles.

    ISSUES
    ___________
    -PO drilled baffles (both big and small holes in exhaust tip)
    -leaky valve gasket, half moons
    -retapped valve bolt
    -uneven idle, dies
    -surges, pops, backfires


    Work I've done so far (engine only)
    __________________
    -Dipped carbs
    -replaced 'O' Rings, including intake boot ones
    -adjusted valve shims to spec
    -replaced valve and breather gasket
    -installed dynojet stage III jetkit
    -installed K&N Air pods

    Charged the battery, primed the bowls, At this point it only starts if you are goosing the throttle, and will run for 3-5 seconds, then bog down and die. It will not idle on its own.

    My guess is that the pilot jet is too lean, but the main jet is too rich? thoughts?

    #2
    Attached is a picture of the pods. There are two of them, with each one covering two carbs. A unique solution to the GS550L frame being in the way of traditional pod size.

    Comment


      #3
      Nice solution there. I would check your plugs and clean your filter. It could cure some of yor backfiring issues. After that start fixing all the other known problems. Once you weed all those out see how she runs. It could be a clogged fuel line. Sounds like its not getting enough fuel in there. Could be float heights. Could be the chokes arent working correctly or arent sealing.

      Comment


        #4
        Air filters are brand new. fuel line is unclogged. Petcock has been cleaned, not worried about that, since it worked fine before. 3 of the 4 plugs were wet, and one was dry but carbon fouled. I obviously cant do a proper plug chop though....

        Comment


          #5
          Hmmm. My first guess was rich. You shouldn't have to open the throttle. When you're getting it to start, what exactly are you doing? Choke on? You didn't mention it, so if you're having to open the throttle and you don't have your choke on it sounds really rich.

          Where did you set your idle screws?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View Post
            Hmmm. My first guess was rich. You shouldn't have to open the throttle. When you're getting it to start, what exactly are you doing? Choke on? You didn't mention it, so if you're having to open the throttle and you don't have your choke on it sounds really rich.

            Where did you set your idle screws?

            It seems to start easier with the choke on. I have adjusted mixture screws from one turn to 4 turns out, it doesnt seem to make much of a difference.

            Comment


              #7
              Did you take out the pilot jets and check them for debris?
              Spray carb cleaner into the pilot air jet and it should blow out the pilot jet port in the float bowl area. Spray it into the main air jet and it should blow out the main jet area.
              These two jets are on the filter side of the carbs. The pilot air jet is removable and the other is not.
              Did you take out the idle mixture screws and blow carb cleaner through them and it should blow out into the carb throat, replace the o-ring on it and make sure the little washer was next to the spring and the o-ring on the end.
              You seem to have covered your bases and I hope it's just crap in your carbs.
              Is your tank free of rust?
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment


                #8
                yea, i did a proper soak of jets and all. The tank has no rust.

                The stock pilot jet is #40, so I order some of the 42.5 just to see what happens.

                Do you guys think the main jet is too big? from 92.5 stock to 150 (dynojet)? The jet hole itself looks like a really dramatic difference

                Comment


                  #9
                  Adjust the main jet so you can achieve red line at full throttle with good color at the plugs
                  Then adjust the needle to lose all hesitation. Start with the clip near the bottom to start rich.
                  Then adjust the idle mixture screws to achieve the best idle.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                    Adjust the main jet so you can achieve red line at full throttle with good color at the plugs
                    Then adjust the needle to lose all hesitation. Start with the clip near the bottom to start rich.
                    Then adjust the idle mixture screws to achieve the best idle.
                    This sounds like really good advice. I will pursue this.

                    My stock pilot jets are #40, and I just got #42.5 in the mail today. I will install those tonight or tommorrow hopefully and let you know what this does to the idle.

                    Interesting note: All 4 of my boot intake O rings had cracks in them, when I replaced them.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Here's a dose of humor. I am willing to tell it, ego aside, for posterity sake.

                      Took apart the carbs last night:

                      -Installed #42.5 pilots, in place of stock #40
                      -Found that I had forgot to replace choke O-rings, as OEM were dried and shriveled
                      -Set float heights, some were off by 1-1.5mm
                      -Found that when I was trying to start it last time..sigh.. I had the gas going into one of the vents, rather than the fuel inlet.


                      So, the carbs are sitting assembled on my workbench, I will install them tonight and give it a go. I'm glad I found something stupid. Stupid is way cheaper to fix in this case.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        ok...

                        I put the carbs back on the bike, and now I cant get it to start. Not even a "putt putt" like its trying to start. When I have everything hooked back up, I tried choke in all positions, holding the throttle closed, 1/4 open, wide open, as well as turning the air screws 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5 turns out.

                        When I first put it back together, I put the petcock to prime for about 5 seconds, then back to "on." This used to cause the bowls to leak, but it doesnt now. The engine "putt putted" twice (carb cleaner) then refused to turn over after that.

                        I turned the petcock to prime for like 90 seconds, and its not leaking. This isnt normal is it? I suspect my carbs are not getting gas, but when I disconnect the fuel hose, gas comes out of the line. This, in my mind eliminates the petcock as suspect.

                        I'm wondering if a pilot jet going from #40 to #42.5 is too much.

                        The spark plugs worked before I took the carbs off, so I cant imagine they are causing this, especially since they ignited the carb cleaner at first.

                        Also, I am not sure where to start the needle shim. My dynojet kit came from Z1 without instructions, so I went off another kits, which said "3rd from the top". I tried this before installing the pilot jet. As it sits right now, if you were to look at the needle as it sits in the assembled carb, I have the clip in the VERY TOP position. I know this isnt right, but I am not sure where else to start.

                        I've never had the bike to a point where it wont even turn over a little bit. This scares me.

                        Please help me guys, I am getting pretty fed up.
                        Last edited by Guest; 05-21-2010, 10:43 PM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Sounds like the floatbowls aren't filling. I'd try dropping a couple of the screws to see if they are full of gas. Assuming they are, the bike should start unless you fouled the plugs with too much fuel. A fuel level gauge check would be a good idea at this point - to measure is to know. Another thing to check is voltage at the coils - you need 11 volts or so otherwise the coil relay mod is recommended.

                          Hope you get it...
                          Ed

                          To measure is to know.

                          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                          Comment


                            #14
                            What's the voltage on your battery? if it's not turning over your battery is probably dead. Secondly put the stock pilots back in. You do not need the larger pilot jets. Have you adjusted the valves? Not to be an ass but this happens so many times. Before you start sticking pods and pipes and a that on your bike you need to get it running well in stock or as close to
                            stock form as you can. If you don't have an airbox then obviously you can't put it back to stock but you need to start with the basics. If you're sure you've cleaned the carbs well and I mean well then set the adjustment screws to three turns out and leave them. They are not your problem. Also if your jet kit didn't come with instructions find some on line. You should have had to drill your slides which you wouldn't know without the instructions. Your battery needs to be at fully charged voltage and you need to assure you're getting spark at the plugs. If you've fouled the plugs with gas get new ones. Your valves also need to be adjusted before you even bother with adjusting your carb setting. Go through everything on basscliffs site. Do them. Failure to do them will leave you where you are now. It's that simple. There are no shortcuts

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                              Sounds like the floatbowls aren't filling. I'd try dropping a couple of the screws to see if they are full of gas. Assuming they are, the bike should start unless you fouled the plugs with too much fuel. A fuel level gauge check would be a good idea at this point - to measure is to know. Another thing to check is voltage at the coils - you need 11 volts or so otherwise the coil relay mod is recommended.

                              Hope you get it...
                              Checked #1 and #4 (so I didnt have to take carbs off bike) and there is plenty of fuel in them.

                              The plugs are very wet with gas.

                              I dont know what afuel level gauge check is? I'll speak of what I do know- The gas tank is full.

                              The engine turns over, there is just no ignition. Should I go buy new plugs? Will they just get wet again?

                              Comment

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