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Originally posted by Suzuki_Don
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VM's are bit more forgiving from what I understand.
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Thats what I meant, sorry for the goof.
VM's are bit more forgiving from what I understand.sigpic
82 GS850
78 GS1000
04 HD Fatboy
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Are you sure you are reading the petcock properly?Originally posted by shibby_cbs View Post
Rotating the lever fully clockwise, so the lever is pointing forward is the REServe position. It will require a bit of vacuum to open it and to keep it open.
Rotating the lever so it is pointing down is the RUN position. It will also require vacuum to open it and keep it open.
Rotating the lever counter-clockwise so the lever is pointing backward is the PRIme position. On all but the '80 petcocks, it will flow gas freely without any vacuum applied. (The '80 petcocks requre a bit of vacuum to start the flow, but then will keep flowing without vacuum.)
Good luck with a petcock rebuild kit. I think the success rate with them is around 10%. You might get by with just taking it apart and giving it a thorough cleaning, then careful re-assembly. If you have a torn diaphragm in there, just get a new petcock. Yeah, it costs a bit more than a rebuild kit, but you won't have to worry about it for another 25-30 years.
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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yea i was deffinately reading it correctly but i went ahead and just got a brand new petcock...also got my oring kit in today and the berrymans solvent for the carb dip...time to get to workOriginally posted by Steve View PostAre you sure you are reading the petcock properly?
Rotating the lever fully clockwise, so the lever is pointing forward is the REServe position. It will require a bit of vacuum to open it and to keep it open.
Rotating the lever so it is pointing down is the RUN position. It will also require vacuum to open it and keep it open.
Rotating the lever counter-clockwise so the lever is pointing backward is the PRIme position. On all but the '80 petcocks, it will flow gas freely without any vacuum applied. (The '80 petcocks requre a bit of vacuum to start the flow, but then will keep flowing without vacuum.)
Good luck with a petcock rebuild kit. I think the success rate with them is around 10%. You might get by with just taking it apart and giving it a thorough cleaning, then careful re-assembly. If you have a torn diaphragm in there, just get a new petcock. Yeah, it costs a bit more than a rebuild kit, but you won't have to worry about it for another 25-30 years.
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Originally posted by shibby_cbs View Post
Keep us posted.
Sounds like you're on the right track.
Make sure to use a good fitting screwdriver for everything, especially the jets and mixture screws. They tend to be very easy to booger up do to the soft copper they're made out of. A little thread breaker like PB Blaster helps to loosen em up.
Also be careful of the float bowl pin as those little arms are also easy to break when you punch the pin out.sigpic
82 GS850
78 GS1000
04 HD Fatboy
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..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|Comment
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alright so heres where im at...
#1: so as i said before the number 1 carb had a cracked post...whoever broke it tried to patch it up and it seemed to be alright...well as soon as i pulled the pin out it fell apart...could i just buy a blank carb body....so what are my options?
#2: all the air screws in all 4 carbs are all seized up...i got 2 of them about a half turn out then the screw heads popped so that was that...could i just drill them out and buy new ones...what are my options here?Last edited by Guest; 05-21-2010, 01:35 PM.Comment
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Originally posted by shibby_cbs View Post
You can try to post a ad in the wanted section of this board for the carb body. Bet someone has one or you can do a search on here and try to repair it. Its been done..
As for the screws, if you're talknig about the mix screws you may have to try to drill em and tap em but I have no experience in that area. Never had to do it.
Someone will chim in just be patient.sigpic
82 GS850
78 GS1000
04 HD Fatboy
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..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|Comment
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well it looks like drillin em out is out of the question...those things are solid...i realy would hate to have to replace all the carbs just because of air screws...any suggestionsLast edited by Guest; 05-21-2010, 06:20 PM.Comment
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They're brass dude. I little drill bit and easy out should do the trick.
Did you hit em with some thread breaker?
Chef, where are you??sigpic
82 GS850
78 GS1000
04 HD Fatboy
...............................____
.................________-|___\____
..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|Comment
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yea i coated em with pb blaster...im no metal expert but im not so sure they are brass...they are silver in color
as far as the float post goes i am taking it to these guys tomorrow to be welded back http://elitefab.com/
i also got 4 rebuild kits on order for these carbs so if i can get the air screws out ill have brand new ones to put inLast edited by Guest; 05-21-2010, 07:34 PM.Comment
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You can use a Dremel and a fine cutting wheel, slice down through the raised portion of the carb body that shields the screws and cut a fine notch in what is left of the screw. Then using a straight blade screw driver, give them another shot.
Has been done several times, though, not by me.
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i guess thats an option...not sure how i feel about hackin up my carb tho...have you ever used those backout bits they use to backout rounded out screwes...wonder how that would workOriginally posted by Dave8338 View PostYou can use a Dremel and a fine cutting wheel, slice down through the raised portion of the carb body that shields the screws and cut a fine notch in what is left of the screw. Then using a straight blade screw driver, give them another shot. Has been done several times, though, not by me.Comment
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Yes, I have. They work great IF you can get the bit to go far enough down. A little rap with a small hammer and 'usually' things pop loose.Comment
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alright after breakin off a stripped screw remover inside the head of one of the air screws i was trying to get out i decided to just take a dremel to it and gring a deep slot in the head as suggested earlier...couldn't have been easier...wish i would have done that sooner...now all i gotta do is get that post welded...my rebuild kits are coming in on monday along with some other chrome goodies so hopefully ill have her up and running againComment
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I agree... But his bike doesnt have VM carbs.. it has BS (CV type) carbs just like your 850.. either way, they need to be completely torn down and dipped and cleaned and ALL of the orings replaced. Get a set from the above vendor. Shortcuts will lead to continued frustration. Its not hard, especially if you just do it right the first time.Originally posted by Octain View PostComment
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+1 for following the basscliff/GSResources carb guide. and make sure you have a good seal for your airboxes too (I'm in the process of resolving that one my idle is horribly inconsistent - but my bike does run and gets 45mpg!)
The first carb teardown is the hardest. After that, it's a walk through the park. Good luck!
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