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80 550L Carb Question
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by kinnet View Post
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TheCafeKid
So the rod matches more or less what mike had. But his is an later model. Dunno if that makes a lick of difference. Is the rod straight?
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mike_of_bbg
Originally posted by TheCafeKid View PostOk well let me ask you this if you don't mind Mike: I don't have another set of 550 carbs to compare to but allthe other cv types I have the choke plungers retract so the the keeper is almost touching the rubber hat on the plunger. On the 550 the plungers only go back far enough so that about >1/4 inch is still sticking out. Doesn't look right but I dunno if they are just a bit different. Can you confirm that they retract as much as others or is this the same on yours?
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mike_of_bbg
Originally posted by TheCafeKid View PostSo the rod matches more or less what mike had. But his is an later model. Dunno if that makes a lick of difference. Is the rod straight?
Going to go away for a while, but I'll check back in later. Let me know if there's any other info I can give ya.
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mike_of_bbg
Are pictures really worth 1,000 words? Sorry about the angle and quality: best I can do with what I've got.
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TheCafeKid
Ok so now I am home from work. And Rose has pretty much done all the work herself and I must say I'm rather impressed. She asked me to look and see if I agreed with what she surmised. The choke rod in fact seems to be correct. But the plungers aren't closing all the way for sure. Once we freed the plungers from the rod the bike seems to be running much better warm so that's definately part of the problem if not all of it. But what seems to sticking is the choke actuator. When the cable is pushed back in, the spring on the return arm seems to be hanging up, as the number two carb choke will stick open still while the rest since they're disconnected from the rod are shut all the way. I think we are going to try to clean and lube the mechanism and see if that helps.
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kinnet
Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View PostMy tape measure says ~11-3/16" (sorry, you can convert to metric if you need). Mine's an 82, but I don't think the rail is different. The choke connection is, and I have the 80-81 parts if you need.
P.S. The rod extension on the right past the rod guide on carb #4 is about 11/16" when the choke is fully closed.
I think I might need the mechanism that the choke cable attaches to on the #2 carb, whatever it's called... does that make sense? ha.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35602
- Torrance, CA
Please post some photos of the carbs with the rod and everything hooked up. I should have an extra pushrod too but need to see what you are up against first.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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mike_of_bbg
Here's what I have - PM me if interested. Please bear in mind that I never actually USED these with a choke cable, but yeah the choke would close all the way. My 82 GS550L had LHC and those choke bits from an 80 or 81, but no cable. I went ahead and bought a LHC and the choke parts I needed to restore the stock 82 choke mechanism. It got tiring having to pull and hold the rail at every cold start
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Here's a pic of my old 750LX carbs showing the choke rail. I remember getting frustrated with them once & realized I had the rod on backwards...
Check that the little brackets are positioned correctly too.
Good luck.'85 GS550L - SOLD
'85 GS550E - SOLD
'82 GS650GL - SOLD
'81 GS750L - SOLD
'82 GS850GL - trusty steed
'80 GS1100L - son's project bike
'82 GS1100G - SOLD
'81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)
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Loosen all the choke rod screws until you find which bore the rod goes through is binding. I've had to drill these out a bit to get the rod to slide smoothly.
The rod is probably slightly bent. I have an extra one if you need it.Last edited by chef1366; 06-05-2010, 01:03 AM.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35602
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostLoosen all the choke rod screws until you find which bore the rod goes through is binding. I've had to drill these out bid to keep the rod to slide smoothly.
The rod is probably slightly bent. I have an extra one if you need it.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Originally posted by kinnet View Post
Where might a girl like me procure the correct one?
He'll never know, and when he does we will laugh at him.
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kinnet
The rod was not bent, however it was a bit mucked up and rough so i cleaned it up as good as I could.
It seems thus far that the culprit was actually the lever not retracting properly. I cleaned that up as good as I could and it seemed to make a huge difference.
I'll make tck take it out for a spin tomorrow and see what happens.Last edited by Guest; 06-05-2010, 03:21 AM.
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