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Avoiding Broken Float Posts

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    Avoiding Broken Float Posts

    Due to an interference fit between the float pivot pin and the support post, the post can snap off when driving out the pin. The interference fit is only on one side of the pin, next to the nail head detail. You need to support the float post before driving out the pin. Hopefully the photos are self explanatory.





    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    #2
    Great!

    Very nice pictorial!!
    1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

    Comment


      #3
      Nice Ed!

      I hope you don't mind. I've added your pictures and text to the Carb Notes page on my little website.


      Thank you for your indulgence,

      BassCliff

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for the info Ed. Sure wish I had that last month
        Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

        1981 GS550T - My First
        1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
        2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

        Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
        Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
        and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

        Comment


          #5
          A pair of side cutters works good too,

          Comment


            #6
            nice Ed, now I know how to do it

            Comment


              #7
              After taking apart the carbs on my recently acquired gs1000g, I found one of the float post already broken and glued back together with who knows what.
              So who knows what?! Is there anyway to fix? JB Weld or something? Looking for a good bond that is of course fuel resistant.

              Comment


                #8
                Did a search found a bunch.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by apogeecustom View Post
                  Did a search found a bunch.
                  You're a good man. The archives is so full of info...if everyone would check first, we wouldn't have any new threads.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by apogeecustom View Post
                    Did a search found a bunch.
                    What carb body do you need? I have a couple.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                      You're a good man. The archives is so full of info...if everyone would check first, we wouldn't have any new threads.
                      The only new threads would be about lynching dead beats.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                        What carb body do you need? I have a couple.
                        The broken post is on 3, but I just buggered up 1 trying to get an air screw out My first round of stuck air screws on my 650 went easy. I guess I got a little over confident this time. I'll keep working it out. So I guess body 3 is my big concern.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                          What carb body do you need? I have a couple.
                          You're a GOOD man Bill. Wish we had you on this side of the Pacific, but then if that was the case I guess I would never have learned how to degree cams. ha ha

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View Post
                            You're a GOOD man Bill. Wish we had you on this side of the Pacific, but then if that was the case I guess I would never have learned how to degree cams. ha ha
                            Thanks
                            I'd of made you degree in the cams while i drank coffee.
                            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                              Thanks
                              I'd of made you degree in the cams while i drank coffee.
                              Yeh, I'd believe that too. or raid the contents of my shed fridge.

                              Comment

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