synced carbs with empi tool

[62 bugzilla]

I synced my carbs today and just for kicks I tried my empi tool

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EMPI-5746-DUAL-CARBURETOR-SYNC-ADJUSTING-TOOL-VW-CARB-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem439b3a312aQQitemZ290367090986QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

even though I was told it wouldn't work. I have done a ton of car carbs with it including mikuni side drafts and su carbs which have a round slide type with good sucess. I used it in the same way and adjusted at idle then with the throttle opened just a bit to make sure they are all pulling the same and it seemed to work good just like a car. Was able to even them all out after using the #3 carb as a baseline. Is there something I'm not seeing or just other people don't have much experience with the empi type tool?

[SKD]

i heard the same thing about the 4 vacuum gauge set up and my freind just called from seattle and did his cb400f with it and it worked great, i was ****ed cause i just bought a fricken tool thats 115 bucks when i could have got one for 50, dohhhhh....oh well. glad it worked for ya

[Steve]

The biggest problem with using a tool that only reads two at a time (and the EMPI tool does not even do that) is that making just one adjustment will affect all four vacuum levels. It is a constant "chasing your tail" effort. Apparently, with the EMPI tool, you get a reading from one carb (presumably starting with #3) and make an adjustment to the gauge to get the indicator to reach a certain mark. Then you place it over #2 and adjust the carb to reach the same mark. Did you go back to #3 to see if it changed? If it did (and it most likely did), you then have to re-center your target and go back to #2. Once you have gone back and forth a few times, then you get to adjust #1. In the process of tweaking #1, the levels of #2&3 will change, meaning you have to re-center your gauge again, basically starting over. Would you believe you have to do that again with #4? Once you connect a gauge set that shows the vacuum levels of all four cylinders and see how they interact, I think you will be a convert.

Most of the efforts at home-made gauges have at least used a system that would look at two carbs at the same time, but then would have to change which two by using a manifold setup. That's great if it happens to work for you, but I have better things to do with all the time it takes to do that. That is not even counting the time it takes to engineer the system, then travel all over to get the parts, then the time to assemble it all.

Personally, I would rather spend a few bucks extra on a gauge that I KNOW works, rather than trust my guesses.

.

[salty_monk]

The Morgan Carbtune is cheap right now given the exchange rate....

Dan

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Interesting! Does using the EMPI tool require the airbox to be removed while you make adjustments? I don't think that would be beneficial.

I've seen analog vacuum gauges work too, as long as they are set up properly. But I really like my Morgan Carb Tune.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Suzuki_Don]

Just received mine from England, also special adjusting tool for CV carbs. The guys are right, no better time to buy than now. While britain is floundering financially. Their loss is our gain.





P.S The brass tubes were from Z1, not from England.

[Steve]

Interesting! Does using the EMPI tool require the airbox to be removed while you make adjustments? I don't think that would be beneficial.

To me, it appears that the EMPI tool has to fit over the mouth of the carb, so yes, the airbox has to be removed.

While that won't affect the vacuum readings at the low speeds involved, it does add another (unnecessary) step to the sync process.

On some bikes, it won't even be possible. I believe it's the 550s where you HAVE to remove the carbs before the airbox, and on the 450s you have to remove the engine to remove the airbox.

Just received mine from England, also special adjusting tool for CV carbs.

Don, good luckc with the "special tool". You shouldn't 'have any problems using on the outer adjusters, but I haven't seen a GS yet where I could use it on the center one.

.

[Suzuki_Don]

Don, good luckc with the "special tool". You shouldn't 'have any problems using on the outer adjusters, but I haven't seen a GS yet where I could use it on the center one. .

Yes Steve, I agree. When I had a closer look the choke setup on the CVs it appears it will get in the way of using this tool. I have the later choke version that was on the CVs and I think it is even more difficult than the earlier one.

I have just found a punctured float on one of my carbs, so replacing that and setting the float height has slowed me down a bit. The material the floats are made out of is very soft. Thought it would be hard plastic, but that was not the case.

[62 bugzilla]

right

Your right steve I did just what you said and yes you chase your tail a bit but you can get them even . On mikuni side draft carbs on a car engine you chase yoyr tail some aswell. It takes a bit longer to do for sure rather than all 4 at the same time but I'm also very use to using this tool so I guess it's no big deal to me. I adjusted at idle with it set allitttle high using my idle adjustment then I always like to check holding the throttle open just a bit to make sure there the same there aswell. SU car carbs are alot like bike carbs using a round slide but instead of mechanical cable opening the slide they use vacuum to open and thats why I thought I should be able to use the empi gauge. I had it and saved me 90.00 bucks I just thought there might be another reason why it's not a good idea to use it.

[Suzuki_Don]

SU car carbs are alot like bike carbs using a round slide but instead of mechanical cable opening the slide they use vacuum to open.

The Mikuni CVs also use vacuum to open the slides, it is the butterflies that are opened mechanically by the throttle cable the same as on the SU carbs.