Dyno Jet Jet-Kit Is Crap! AFR Dyno Results;

[JungleJustice]

Thanks guys; glad to see that there are others here who have had good results from the Dyno Jet kits. It just sucks for me right now; I have SO much into the bike and there are two RZ500s sitting here and various Alfa Romeo projects - all BEGGING the attention, time and money!

I'll put the 160 air-jets in, verify the float-levels, redo a carb-sync and see what it does. PITA - in and out, in and out with those carbs...

[sparki]

and if all that fails then complete the check sheet that i posted a link to and call dynojet direct. there are very specific questions and answers they require but they will know where you need to go next

[woodman]

Well Posplayer thats what seems to work best at this altitude, where do you think it should be ? That was all I had except stuff in the 150 range. Ive got the R&R down to a science now with taking the battery box bolts out, one more time wont be a big deal. This is my first GS, Ive always had KZs. All I have here is the butt dyno, Im always open to ideas. Carbs on it had those jets in it PO had ruined all pilot screws and air adjustment screws so I had to build a set of carbs out of 3 sets, then had a problem with a plugged air bleed that makes a blind turn to the pilot jeton #1 carb. Took me a while to figure that out

[posplayr]

Well Posplayer thats what seems to work best at this altitude, where do you think it should be ? That was all I had except stuff in the 150 range. Ive got the R&R down to a science now with taking the battery box bolts out, one more time wont be a big deal. This is my first GS, Ive always had KZs. All I have here is the butt dyno, Im always open to ideas. Carbs on it had those jets in it PO had ruined all pilot screws and air adjustment screws so I had to build a set of carbs out of 3 sets, then had a problem with a plugged air bleed that makes a blind turn to the pilot jeton #1 carb. Took me a while to figure that out

Sorry , I guess I blocked all the times I had to pull mine off . Mine was a little more complicated (1166, ported head, 4:2:1 and 1150 carbs) but I was pulling carbs off each cold April morning during a GSR camping rally near Julian.

With stock engine you probably needed 3-4 trials on mains then 2-3 on needles which got you to 6 times.

My experience has been for most of the standard configurations ask Chef1366 what size to do the main and you are withing 1/2-1 step sizes first time. A little futzing with the needles and you should be done. (famous last words )

[Billy Ricks]

As a couple of others have pointed out, make sure the floats are set right. If they aren't right it throws the jetting off.

[JungleJustice]

OK, so the pilot-jets that are in there are 170s... The ones in the DynoJet kit are DH160s.. Weird - smaller air-jets are going to help lean it out!? In my mind the smaller air-jets mean less air to fuel and that means richer running!? No - I'm already running in the 8s and 9s...

OR -

Do they somehow feed the vacuum-draw on fuel and by reducing their size, you are effectively reducing the amount of fuel pulled through - thereby leaning it out!?

[chef1366]

OK, so the pilot-jets that are in there are 170s... The ones in the DynoJet kit are DH160s.. Weird - smaller air-jets are going to help lean it out!? In my m,ind the sdmaller air-jets mean less air to fuel and that means richer running!? No - I'm already running in the 8s and 9s...

OR -

Do they somehow feed the vacuum-draw on fuel and by reducing their size, you are effectively reducing the amount of fuel pulled through - thereby leaning it out!?

Those are pilot air jets. The pilot jets are under the rubber cap in the float bowl.
Don't mess with that jet.
I gave you good advice.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Mikuni and DJ use different different numbering schemes when sizing their jets. Mikuni's sizes are based on the volume of fuel passed per minute, i.e. 125 cc of fuel per minute. DynoJet uses the actual diameter of the opening in the jet, i.e. 130 mm. There are conversion charts available online or you can download Mr. salty-monk's conversion spreadsheet from my website.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[crazypaint]

dk how the 160 leans it out but it dose. i had to lean out the bottom end on my bike i put the 160 in it and it made a big difference on the bottom. mine use to load up and run like complete s*** then i put thos in and ran better on the bottom end then had to play with the air screws a little

[JungleJustice]

Guys, thanks SO much for all of your help!

Chef, I don't doubt for ONE MINUTE that you are giving me good advice; it is just somewhat important to me that I understand what I am doing and that I try to make it work with what I have here and that I get the bike on the road and see where we are again! Wait a second - there are the mains, the idle-jets, the pilot jets (air-jets) and then the needle. Something I missed!?
I don't have access to the Mikuni 117.5 mains - I have the DJ 110s, the 114s (that are in there now), the 132s and then the 138s that they also sent to me in the kit! I do have the needles 4th from the bottoms - 3rd from the tops. The pilot-jets now in there are 170s - DJ sent me 160s. You recommend 45s!? Are we talking the same thing here!? Verified float-levels at 21.4mm to 23.4mm - all exact at 22.2-22.7mm. Carbs are rebuilt – new o-rings etc!

For the record; I probably have something like 500 hours on various car dynos tuning several different fully-programmable, stand-alone engine management systems (me personally – on the laptop – moving timing and fuel and measuring peak-hold horsepower, mapping for drive-ability, part-throttle, cursing, idle, cold-start, back-off modes, WOT etc, so I think that I understand things from the air-in/air-out perspective and from the AFR-perspective. I re-read the DJ instructions and yes – there, clear as daylight - it gives the OPTION of installing the DH160 pilot-jets "in order to lean-out the bottom-end" IF the bike starts up WITHOUT the choke (reason we did not do them - it DOESN'T start without the choke...!)

Also, on the troubleshooting questionnaire that sparki posted, there is a diagram that clearly shows the rpm / load-range of the air-jet / pilot jets to impact the ranges that I am having problems with!

Perhaps I'll do those 160s and see? Still puzzled by the thought that SMALLER air-jets will lean it out!? Are we talking the same thing here - air-jets / pilot-jets...?

[posplayr]

do step #1 first. You should be using a main no smaller than stock

Mikuni 117.5 mains - I have the DJ 110s, the 114s (that are in there now),

A DJ 110/114 is like a 90/95 Mikuni

Bill is telling you to run a 117.5 mikuni You are way off on the main. Best to buy some or go pods and 4:1 and step up to the 132 dj


If you are way rich on a 110 dj I suspect there is something wrong with the carb. Get this straight first.

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

• <B>

  • 1. Top end (full throttle / 7.5k to redline -

  • 
    
    
    Best Main Jet must be selected before starting step 2 (needle height)!
    • • Select Best Main Jet
    • To get the best, most even top end power (full throttle/after 7500 rpm), select the main jet that produces the hardest pull at high rpm.
      • If the bike pulls harder at high rpm when cold and less hard when fully warmed up, the main jet is too large. Install a smaller main jet and retest until you find the main jet that pulls the hardest at high rpm when fully warmed up. This must be done first - before moving on to the other tuning ranges.

  • • • If the bike doesn't pull well at high rpm when cold and gets only slightly better when fully warmed up, the main jet is too small.
        • In order to properly tune the midrange and low rpm carburetion, THE MAIN JET MUST FIRST BE PROPERLY SELECTED after 10 to 15 minutes of hard use!
          • Do not pay too much attention to the low-end richness when you are changing main jets - you still need to be using the main jets that produce the best power at high rpm. You will deal with the low-end / cruise later - after step 2.

          
          

  </B>

[sparki]

without wishing to labour the point.... but why not just contact DYNOJET and explain the issues you are having

[posplayr]

without wishing to labour the point.... but why not just contact DYNOJET and explain the issues you are having

well he could do that but there is probably 100 times the collective experience tuning GS1100E's on this website v.s. DJ.

Bill has rebuild/setp many of these carbs and can just tell you what the setup should be (in fact he did) and get very close especially if it is a stock motor.

This is a stock engine and the if the smallest dj mains are running rich there is a gas leak in the carb (I'm guessing) ; calling DJ will not fix that.

[JungleJustice]

My point exactly...

So, we put the DH160s in and removed the 170s that were in there, re-verified the float-levels and reinstalled.

She runs much better! Smooth and pulls strong! We also synched the carbs - they were pretty far out of whack!

I'll get to the dyno and see where things are at now!

Thanks for the help guys!

[posplayr]

My point exactly...

So, we put the DH160s in and removed the 170s that were in there, re-verified the float-levels and reinstalled.

She runs much better! Smooth and pulls strong! We also synched the carbs - they were pretty far out of whack!

I'll get to the dyno and see where things are at now!

Thanks for the help guys!

Did you ever get any updates to the AFR's?