Quick GS1150 BS36SS question...

[boingk]

And thats the internal diameter, right?

Ah, f*** it...I reckon I'll just take the damn things off and shove a caliper in there. I mean, I'm even selling the CBR this weekend so will have a bit more room in the garage to work with.

Cheers everyone, thanks for the help - boingk

[boingk]

OK, so I got all fired up thinking that if I'm going to do something then I'll do it right. I called up the local dealer and inquired about K&N filters for the bike, part number RU-2922 (long oval with two intake boots). They said $160, and I'd need two. Throw a DJ kit in there and I'm looking at almost $500 (Australian) to refilter and rejet my bike!

Holy cramolies!

Theres no way I'm going to shell out that much cash for a jetting kit and aftermarket filters, so I think I'll go the el-cheapo pods and self-tuning route. Its worked for me before. If I end up getting frustrated, I'll be sure to post back so you can say 'WE TOLD YOU SO!'

Cheers - boingk

[posplayr]

OK, so I got all fired up thinking that if I'm going to do something then I'll do it right. I called up the local dealer and inquired about K&N filters for the bike, part number RU-2922 (long oval with two intake boots). They said $160, and I'd need two. Throw a DJ kit in there and I'm looking at almost $500 (Australian) to refilter and rejet my bike!

Holy cramolies!

Theres no way I'm going to shell out that much cash for a jetting kit and aftermarket filters, so I think I'll go the el-cheapo pods and self-tuning route. Its worked for me before. If I end up getting frustrated, I'll be sure to post back so you can say 'WE TOLD YOU SO!'

Cheers - boingk

http://gszone.biz/carbs.html

APE AIR FILTERS FOR MIKUNI RS FLATSLIDES AND OEM SUZUKI CARBS
APE Super Pro high performance air filters provide the kind of air flow necessary for todays high performance engines.Don't strangle your engine with poor filtration, insist on the best...APE Super Pro.


005-121$59.95 (I'm sure for all 4)


http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3133.pdf
On sale for $98

http://www.jcmotors.com/p-11779-dyno...150-80-86.aspx


So your looking at $160 USD plus shipping to Aus.

[blowerbike]

yeah,
what he said

[TheCafeKid]

OK, so I got all fired up thinking that if I'm going to do something then I'll do it right. I called up the local dealer and inquired about K&N filters for the bike, part number RU-2922 (long oval with two intake boots). They said $160, and I'd need two. Throw a DJ kit in there and I'm looking at almost $500 (Australian) to refilter and rejet my bike!

Holy cramolies!

Theres no way I'm going to shell out that much cash for a jetting kit and aftermarket filters, so I think I'll go the el-cheapo pods and self-tuning route. Its worked for me before. If I end up getting frustrated, I'll be sure to post back so you can say 'WE TOLD YOU SO!'

Cheers - boingk

Yikes man... Good luck with that self tuning bit... Especially with those cheapie filters... I've been down that road... I'd rather spend the money and actually get to ride the bike without it spitting and bucking and burning up plugs and god knows what else.....

[boingk]

Posplayer - thanks for the link to the APE store, looks like they have some very nice stuff... the carburettors in particular caught my eye. Wouldn't mind a nice set of RS36's.

CafeKid - hopefully I won't be relying on good luck! Not getting the Taiwanese pods, thought it over and am now getting the Unifilters - pretty good deal at AU$125 posted. Jets coming from New Zealand, probably set me back another AU$50 before I get things right.

And for anyone following the thread and wondering if the BS36SS carbs really are 57mm (2.25") in external flange diameter... yes, they are. Measured them this afternoon; call me paranoid but I want to be 100% sure before shelling out hard earned cash.

Cheers - boingk

[Steve]

I just read through all this for the first time and am rather amused.

What are you hoping to gain by going to pod filters?
You say your engine is stock, so simply adding pods won't add that much performance.
Looks? You have to like the look an awful lot to go through all this hassle (and you haven't even started the jetting yet ) to get a 'look'.

.

[boingk]

Sorry, Steve, I know that was well intentioned but its actually really p!ssed me off. I seem to be constantly justifying myself to others, even though its a] not their money b] not their time and c] not their bike. And yes, I know everyone is well intentioned...but sh!t, all I wanted to know was the diameter of the carb induction flange.

What I'm hoping to gain are a few horsepower and better servicability, due to the foam elements being washable and reusable. I also don't particularly like the stock induction setup, its like a bloody afterthought - I've said it before, most airboxes from this period are absolutely sh!thouse. Todays machines are much different in that respect, and I wouldn't dream of putting pods on 95% of them.

I have little to zero interest in the look of a pod filter, and these pods will be hidden away behind the stock sidecovers anyway. It'll be hard to tell that there is any modification unless you're right up close, and even then you'd probably have to know what you're looking for.

Added to the induction modifications, I'm also planning on drilling the stock exhaust endcaps to provide a better flow. There are 8 flat areas on the endcaps, 4 have rivets in them. The other four will recieve 8 or 10mm holes. It should give a slightly louder, throatier exhaust note as a bonus. The current setup is, again, absolutely sh!thouse. It looks like they designed the system they wanted the bike to have, and wiped away a tear as they handed it over to the fellows who had to make it meet noise standards.

After that, I'm considering adding an aftermarket ignition unit and some high-output coils with inductive-core silicon leads. If anyone questions that, then the hell will them - they clearly haven't experienced the benefit of an 80,000 volt sparking system coupled to a properly tailored ignition unit.

If anyones still reading by this point, you might have guessed that I couldn't give a damn about how "hard" the bike will be to tune after I've modified it. You make changes and document the effects, and then go and try again at making it better until you're happy with it. It really isn't all that hard in my opinion, assuming you have some real-world knowledge and experience. I've done it before, and I'll do it this time, and I'll do it again after that.

Cheers - boingk

[blowerbike]

post #2

2-1/4" offset ovals is what you want.
if not K&N at least get a set of correct look a likes from APE or plessor or someone for around 60 bucks US.
sorry no MM measurements.
a lot of CV carbs 750/1000/1100/1150 ect.. plus mik racing carbs take these.

PS
add a st.3 jet kit to your order or the carbs will never be close to right..NEVER.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

i answered your question right away(2 1/4") and yes i did add my 2 cents about using a jet kit instead of self jetting and about the trash emgo air filters with there odd restrictive small shape.
an 850 has a smaller air box and is easier to re-jet when it is removed.
an 1150 will never be 100% with out a st.3 jet kit being used.
this is the facts for US model 1150's anyways.

[posplayr]

post #2

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

i answered your question right away(2 1/4") and yes i did add my 2 cents about using a jet kit instead of self jetting and about the trash emgo air filters with there odd restrictive small shape.
an 850 has a smaller air box and is easier to re-jet when it is removed.
an 1150 will never be 100% with out a st.3 jet kit being used.
this is the facts for US model 1150's anyways.

Yea I noted that last night as well. "Johnny on the spot" and to the point

[boingk]

i answered your question right away [snip]
this is the facts for US model 1150's anyways.

I appreciated that, blowerbike, its just the imperial units made me a bit wary is all. Figured I'd rather just measure it myself and be as sure as I could be. It was in the dark after work, using a head torch, but I got the measurement and it turned out to be exactly as you said. Thanks again anyway mate.

As for the jet kit, I'll wing it without it and make my own from scratch. I really do appreciate the advice coming from technical experience, its the questioning of my motives (ala Steve) that I can't stand. I'm sure hes a great guy, but come on...cut me a break. I'm a big boy now.

last night

Hahaha, continually amazed at the time lag as the Earth rotates. As I'm writing this its 11:50am on a Saturday. Compare that to the forum-stated time/date stamp

Cheers guys - boingk

[TheCafeKid]

I wasnt thinking when I replied, but with adjustable needles (ala everywhere else but the US it seems) you'll stand a fair bit better chance. I will warn you, I HAVE adjustable spec MiC needles, and it was still not working the way i liked. There is just not enough taper, adjustable or not.

And, just a quick word on your "tuning theory and practice" Theory and practice are often vastly different from each other when applied in real world scenarios. I followed, to the letter, the Factory Pro tuning guide while trying to hand jet my 1100E. What I ended up finding, and what you may end up finding yourself, is that, because you're tuning from the top down (main first, as it meters EVERYTHING in a BS series CV carb, from the Pilot up..) You may run into a situation where you get VERY VERY close to having the bike run the way you want it, but to do so, you'll end up with a MASSIVE main jet. This will, in fact, contrary to what some of those tuning guides will tell you, effect EVERY circuit in the carb. So, you could have a bike that runs great through the mids to WOT, but reeks of gasoline at idle, idles like crap and gets abysmal fuel economy (in reality, MOST of your riding time is centered around the pilot, pilot needle transition, and just into the needle... maintenance throttle, or off idle cruising throttle could be massively effected..) . Or it could run great off idle, and from 1/2 throttle up to WOT but fall on its face on the pilot/needle transition, or many different combinations from there..

What you're paying for in the purchase of a DJ kit, a Factory Pro kit, or any variation on such, is the R&D in the design of the NEEDLE itself. The jets are simply MiC jets, with a different measurement scheme employed to make them that companies product. (For instance, one may use the actual diameter of the jet as the determining factor in the "size", another may use the actual flow rate, some other still may just call it whatever...)
The Needles employed in these kits were specifically designed to deliver the necessary amount of fuel through the mid-range, based on the given main jet size, to allow the bike to run as it should after an intake/exhaust change has been implemented. I dont think anyone here is attempting to put you down, change your mind, or anything of the like. And Yes, Steve is a good guy, and we've had our debates about reasoning behind adding pod filters and or exhaust systems..

Oh, and, for the record, The biggest gain on switching to a 4-1/4-2-1 on a GS is WEIGHT SAVINGS.. I could go into another rant about pipe diameters, flow rates, etc.. but we'll save that for another day

[Steve]

Sorry, Steve, I know that was well intentioned but its actually really p!ssed me off. I seem to be constantly justifying myself to others, even though its a] not their money b] not their time and c] not their bike. And yes, I know everyone is well intentioned...but sh!t, all I wanted to know was the diameter of the carb induction flange.

I am sorry it bothered you that much.

I know your original question was only about the size. Others came in and addressed that issue, but the issue of jetting was brought up, too. Again, it was with good intentions, as some of the new guys don't realize that jetting for pods is necessary, and we are just trying to keep them from destroying their engine with improper jetting.

The part that amuses me is how much effort usually has to go into the process of jetting for pods, so I was just questioning the reason for wanting to install them. If it's for performance, it's totally understandable, they will definitely help. If you want them on there only for the looks, you have to admit: that's an awful lot of work to go through to keep your "look" from destroying your engine.

True, the design of the stock airbox will limit ultimate horsepower production, but that was not the goal. It was designed to provide smooth, stable air to the carbs and quiet the noise from the intake, while allowing as much air as possible. Yes, it's a compromise.

Not all of us are into the quest of wresting everly last pony out of the engine. The stock output does everything I want/need it to do, so I have never had the urge to switch to pods.

It still amuses me, though, to hear some of the reasons to go to pods. One that I hear most often is that "it's easier to remove the carbs". True, but why do you have to remove the carbs so often? Usually it's the multiple times that it takes to re-jet them for the pods. I cleaned the carbs on my wife's bike five years ago. They have not been off the bike since then and the bike runs just fine, they have not needed any further cleaning or other repairs.

I'll climb down off my soapbox now, and go back to hide in my little corner.

.

[Texasgs]

re

GD INCH 2 MM Conversions

[boingk]

Yeah, I know about conversions Texasgs. Australia wasn't always metric - we switched over in 1966. Thanks anyway mate.

Steve, you got me! I'm definitely one of those fellows who's hell-bent on wringing the engine to give every watt of power it can muster in order to fling me down the road at excessive and unecessary speed! I'm also confused on peoples rationale of 'easier to remove' - you only need to do it once in a blue moon, as you said. Despite the new EFI stuff being touted as superior, I'd still probably prefer carbs on my bikes.

CafeKid - weight saving over stock pipes would be nice, but I'm not really looking to do anything like that at the moment. Besides, the stock pipes actually look quite good IMO.

Cheers guys - boingk