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    #16
    Originally posted by shibby_cbs View Post
    and i thought it was weird that it didnt....ill get on that

    and thanks bass..i didnt realize it was under colortune/carbtune....i guess the next step is to find a reliable tuner for a decent price
    I'm sure someone on this forum in your local area would have the tools you need, no point in buying one until you know what you want.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #17
      I was talking to a guy yesterday that has a 73 Kawi 900. I was telling him how my bike clunks and rattles at idle....like a bad clutch. And thats what I thought it was.
      This guy says no...that the carbs need sync-ing.

      Funny he should say that coz my bike didn't do it before I rebuilt my carbs. Also..this guy has a manometer and when he does his 900, he says he'll do mine at the same time

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        #18
        A clutch rattle can be made to rattle a lot more with out of synch carbs, in fact even a bad rattle can be made to not rattle much if the carbs are synched well enough.

        Will that guy just let you borrow his manometers?
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

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          #19
          ok i just thought of something...do i have to have the vaccume tube hooked up to the petcock when i do the adjustment

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            #20
            You're doing this with a huge vacuum leak?
            Use prime and block off the vacuum line on #2.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #21
              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
              You're doing this with a huge vacuum leak?
              Use prime and block off the vacuum line on #2.
              Or use a remote fuel tank, lawnmower tank, whipper snipper tank, etc. and block off the vacuum line like Bill said and then you can get a better look at what is going on in the carbs. The large fuel tank obscures a lot of vision.

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                #22
                Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                A clutch rattle can be made to rattle a lot more with out of synch carbs, in fact even a bad rattle can be made to not rattle much if the carbs are synched well enough.

                Will that guy just let you borrow his manometers?
                Hes a member of the vintage club chapter I'm in. Hes an ok guy.

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                  #23
                  I put the tank on a barrel with a long fuel line.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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