Go more on the screws or needles?

[Nessism]

I'd put the screws at 3 - 3.25 turns and try that. Anything more than that is abnormal unless the bike has been modded. If that setting doesn't work, you could have weak spark.

[don]

Fired her up, let her warm, and adjusted for best idle, (after needle shims). Screws are more in the neighborhood you're talking about Ness. All are at 3.375 and it seems good. When I rev it up, the idle comes back nicely and steady. Vrooommmmaaah prrrrrrrrrrrrrr. 1000 RPM

Looks like it's going to be raining here till Thurs evening or Fri. Will hve to wait till then to ride

For now, thank all of you for your patience with my ramblings and your willingness to share your knowledge. I'll post an update when I get to test ride it.

[tkent02]

Looks like it's going to be raining here till Thurs evening or Fri. Will hve to wait till then to ride

Dude, that's like five days. Put on a raincoat or something.

[don]

I know.....I'm a Wussy.

I just really hate the time it takes to clean off all those burnt on water spots on the headders and engine, (WAAA), besides all the ones that get behind the, (WAAA), side covers and, (WAAA), all those places that are impossible to get at, (WWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!)


LOL

If the roads are dry for 10 min somewhere along the way here, I'll give it a whirl.

[posplayr]

OK. Just got done doing the needles. The factory shim measured at exactly .100". The washers I put in are .020" each so I put 4 in = .080" = a change of .020". ( Just to be sure, I measured a stack of 4 and they do indeed measure .080"). I also turned all of the screws in,(lean), 1/4 turn.

I started it up and it did so like it did before. Choke to get it started, then just use the throttle without the choke and keep it around 1500 - 2000 rpm for about 20 sec, then let it idle untill the idle comes up to 1000 rpm. Just came inside for a quick snack. I'm going to fire it up in the shed, (raining), let it warm up a bit and adjust the screws for best idle. Won't be able to ride till the rain stops.

TKENT02,

Ican't be 100% sure, but I'm pretty sure all is well with everything/else. I believe knocking out the centers of the stock pipes has had the biggest effect on why it seems to want more fuel. By doing so I have taken out the diversion/restriction toward the silencing material/perferated exhaust holes and replaced that diversion/obstruction with a clear .875" or so avenue for the exhaust to flow through freely in each side.

Basicly I've added whatever cfm at exhaust pressure will flow through a .875" orafice to each side of the exhaust system.

Even though the intake has not been modified, due to the stock pipes being so restrictive, the reduction in " back preassure" has increased the scavenging effect of the exhaust which in turn will also increase the vacuum at the intake through the ovelap in the cam when both valves are open at the same time.

Just my thought.

Man I get ramblly and technical and overthinking and overcomplicated and....... "this one time at band camp".............

If you noticed a change due to the exhaust you might be in for a change to the mains which means the needle might need being redone. Best to wait for the rain to stop before doing any redline pulls though

[don]

Can't remember the last time I did a redline run except when I stopped at neutral on my way to 2nd. LOL

Yes, I agree posplayr, I fully intend on giving her a mild "shakedown" ride and check the plugs before buzzing down the highway at 7000+RPM.

Finding out I'm too lean there would truely SUUUUUUUUUCK! I've had the pleasure of cleaning melted piston off the inside of an engine block with one of my stock cars, huge fun, oh yea, loved it..........

[don]

If you noticed a change due to the exhaust you might be in for a change to the mains which means the needle might need being redone. Best to wait for the rain to stop before doing any redline pulls though

I have to immagine this has happened over time. It seems louder than when I first punched the exhaust out. I'm guessing the "stuffing" is slowly exiting the pipes now that it can get out. At some point it will stop I immagine. And like I said, I've added a .875" hole to each side. I first drilled them with a 1/2" drill then knocked the rest out with a 3/4" dowel. When I used the dowel there was at least .063" a side of room for it, and I made sure I got all around the edges good too....

[tkent02]

Can't remember the last time I did a redline run except when I stopped at neutral on my way to 2nd. LOL

Just out of curiosity, you don't red line it so you are obviously not after more power...
So why go through all of this? Pipe punching and jet changing and all of it?

[don]

Pipe punching is because my seventy something year old mother gave me the bussiness about my little bike being too quiet. " Son, you have to get louder pipes on that thing, it doesn't even sound like a motorcycle". Go figure, I'm still listening to Mom.

As far as getting it to run at "peak", I have built and drove race cars for over 20 years, (retired for 10+ years). Successively at that. I hold several records locally and the guy I built race cars with still does it in WI for Coleman Chassis. He uses the designs we both came up with years ago and the car he currently is working on has allready clinched the local championchip. And I am an engineer that designs and personally builds automated printing equipment.

To answer your question without the long disertation......... because Mom said so and I have that stupid, overthinking, get all you can from what you have, rediculous engineering brain...................LOL LOL LOL

[Steve]

Pipe punching is because my seventy something year old mother gave me the bussiness about my little bike being too quiet. " Son, you have to get louder pipes on that thing, it doesn't even sound like a motorcycle". Go figure, I'm still listening to Mom.

OK so she made a suggestion.

Whose bike is it?

Is her name on the title?

Does she ride it?

Tell her she can punch out her OWN mufflers. If YOU want a quiet bike, you should have kept it that way.

.

[don]

Agree Steve..... But it's MOM......and I do like a little temper in the throttle too.....I'll work through it I guess. LOL

[don]

OK, the results are in....(minus the highway run)............ With the needles raised .020" and the screws at 3-3/8 turns out..........SUUUUCK-O! So I put the factory spacers back in the needles and set the screws back to 4-1/4 and......WAY BETTER!

Short answer, it is better the way I had things before.

Thank all of you for your help along the way.

Side note,
When I was doing the coil relay mod I accidentaly sparked my meter probe from one of the coil's + terminals to ground, (the way I had the coil laying there when I did this I should have known better). Anyway, my first thought was, OH SLIT!!! I just butnt out my igniter box. It fired up perfectly fine so I went on my way feeling lucky.

I can't remember who, but someone in this post made hints to check the spark. Now not 10 minuits before, I was running the bike in my shed with no issues. When I was checking the spark, # 2-3 had none. I thought, well maybe the plug isn't grounded properly. So I put it all together and sure enough, the coil that I had shorted a week or so ago had no spark when I started it. I put my spare igniter in and poof all was well.

I guess better to happen in the shed than 100 mile away from home.