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    #16
    Originally posted by Rein View Post

    I'm beginning to think it's the 155 airjets when it should have 150's like everyone else. Not sure though.
    650 carbs I have seen have had 155 or 160 air jets, where did you get the 150 spec?
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    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #17
      Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
      650 carbs I have seen have had 155 or 160 air jets, where did you get the 150 spec?
      According to the manuals that I have, the stock air jet is 160.

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        #18
        Yes according to the manual, air jets are 160, but I pnd and did a big search on the forum, most of the 650g's have 150. However, if there are bikes out there running fine on 155, it's something else.

        Well, #4 is hot again, like #1 and 2, but now # is not as hot. However, it's still too hot to touch, but it doesn't vaporize water. I'll chalk it up to the mix screws not being properly adjusted yet. Will give it another lookover

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          #19
          Anyways, went out to check one more time.

          Idles fine and revs fine after start up. once she gets warm, all pipes are hot. #3 vaporizes water but not wd40 like the other pipes. still hot enough to burn though

          ... ask me how I know..

          Once hot, she hangs when returning to idle. I sprayed carbcleaner around the boots, hoping to seal any leaks, and the idle would drop and the bike would nearly bog out. If I rev it when the idle drops, she acts perfectly fine. once the carb cleaner dried up, it was back to hanging.

          I hooked up my voltmeter to verify that it wasn't the charging system dying intermittently. At charge, it seems the battery is only at 12.5-12.7 volts at idle. at 4000 rpm it's at 13.5V. When the bike bogs down after spraying the boots, voltage stays steady. With the bike off, voltage is at 13.2V. Although, this surprises me a bit, the bike passed stator papers before I left for training. I do have a new Honda R/R I've been meaning to get around to, maybe I'll change it out this weekend.

          Boots look good, but then again, they might be some small but significant cracks on 3 and 4, which are the boots that I tested.

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            #20
            I sprayed carbcleaner around the boots, hoping to seal any leaks, and the idle would drop and the bike would nearly bog out. If I rev it when the idle drops, she acts perfectly fine. once the carb cleaner dried up, it was back to hanging.
            Sounds like you most certainly have an induction leak at the carb boots, I know you said the O Rings where new, but have you checked the mating surfaces of the boots, where they pull up against the head for straightness, they may be slightly warped or distorted.
            Best way to ckeck this is with a known straight edge drawn across the surface and looking for any light coming through between the straight edge and the boot surface. What I like to do is lay a piece of fine 600 grit sand paper on a piece of glass pane, and rub the boot over the sand paper a few times, any high or low spots will show up straight away.
            If they do, it is a simple matter od continuing to sand away on the glass pane until the surface is true again, it does not get straighter than that.

            The same holds true for the mating surfaces on the head side, problem here, is if they are out, getting them fixed is much more difficult.

            I know the O ring should compensate for it, to a point, but I have seen stranger things in my time, these are 30 year old machines and that area is subject to repeated heating and cooling cycles, I would be very surprised if they are 100% straight.
            Hope this helps

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