Winterization-carbs

[Steve]

Also, won't any elevated temp (say, warm to the touch) tend to evaporate any moisture? Why is full operating temperature necessary?

Were you awake in your physics and/or chemistry classes?

When I went to school (many years before you did ), we were told that water evaporated at 212 degrees F. Not sure about the sensitivity of your touch, but I feel warmth considerably before that.

There is also the water vapor that is a by-product of combustion to consider. Surely you have noticed all the clouds of vapor trailing cars in the winter? Ever notice that you don't see that on cars that have been out long enough to get fully warmed up? Same thing with the bikes.

Simply warming the pipes ("to the touch") might reduce the relative humidity, but the actual moisture is still there. As the temperature cools, the relative humidity increases to the point of saturation, then condensation forms.

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[Nessism]

Condensation is real, and is the reason mufflers rot out.

BTW, Suzuki recommends draining both the fuel system and carbs for winter storage. I don't think it will cause issues to do so unless you're carbs are full of 30 year old O-rings.

[850 Combat]

A lot of Craigs List sellers prepare for storage by removing the carbs and plugs, and put them in storage. Then the bike is carefully placed leaning on the site of the shed or tree outdoors. Removal of the stator cover and disassembly of the carbs is optional. Airbox and filter should be placed on the ground, open

I'm with Suzuki on preferring to drain the carbs. I prefer to leave the fuel tank full. Corrosion in the tank comes from condensation of moisture in the air. Full tank minimizes the quantity of air.

As to condensation, a minimium operating oil temp of 180 degrees in the is recommended for drying condension out. 10 minutes of idling isn't going to heat up the oil. It will probably keep the carb jets from gumming up though.

[Dogma]

What were they teaching kids in school in those days?

Water boils at 212°F, but evaporation happens at lower temperatures, if humidity is low enough. For example, the humidity in Buffalo during the winter can drop very low as the moisture freezes out of the air. My roommate in college (I went to UB), would set a full mug of water on the heater to be evaporated in order to raise the humidity in the dorm room to protect his delicate sinuses. Wuss. Too many years in Florida for him. Anyhow, on really dry days, he would need to refill the mug 2 or 3 times versus none during a thaw. That heater was nowhere near 212°F. "Concentration of the substance evaporating in the air" and elevated temperature both affect evaporation.

I'm not sure it matters though. The morning after you take it for a ride, the engine will be cool, and the condensation will be right back in there (and rotting the mufflers). So what's the additional harm in not boiling it off in the first place? This is the part I don't get.

[JEEPRUSTY]

Condensation is real, and is the reason mufflers rot out.

BTW, Suzuki recommends draining both the fuel system and carbs for winter storage. I don't think it will cause issues to do so unless you're carbs are full of 30 year old O-rings.

automobiles that nake short trips rust out mufflers more than those used on long trips.

the pipes never get hot enough to evaporate the moisture and it is that moisture combined with th byproducts of combustion that rust things.

sulphur and water nake for sulfuric acid if I recall.

I read an mc mag article once that claimed that all of the stresses were not out of an engine till after it had been run for a long time about two hours or so--seems unimagineable.

[blowerbike]

fill tank to keep from rusting.
drain carbs.
remove battery from bike and trickle as needed.
change oil now or before starting in the spring.
these are all simple things.
stabill smabill...
no fuel in carbs = no gummy gum gum stuff to deal with.

[cowboyup3371]

fill tank to keep from rusting.
drain carbs.
remove battery from bike and trickle as needed.
change oil now or before starting in the spring.
these are all simple things.
stabill smabill...
no fuel in carbs = no gummy gum gum stuff to deal with.

With me living in CO I could see myself doing that. But one question, we still have good days out here during the winter where it's still possible to ride. Unfortunately, my closest gas station is 10 miles away from the house. What is my best option if I follow your advice but still try to ride during the winter?

[blowerbike]

With me living in CO I could see myself doing that. But one question, we still have good days out here during the winter where it's still possible to ride. Unfortunately, my closest gas station is 10 miles away from the house. What is my best option if I follow your advice but still try to ride during the winter?

my suggestion does not count if you chose to ride your bike any durring the storage period.
mine is for parking it till the season is 100% in.
i stored a persons bike like i stated for over 3 years.
i went to sell it for them and installed the battery/turned full on to fill carbs/flipped the choke and it started....
carbs leaked between each other a little but after the 1st ride it was dry as a bone.
gas was flat to say the least and some had evaporated..added half bottle of lucus octane booster and the rest is history.

[cowboyup3371]

Blower, I understand what you are saying but should I still put some Stabil in or should I do something else if I want to continue riding?

[blowerbike]

Blower, I understand what you are saying but should I still put some Stabil in or should I do something else if I want to continue riding?

there's others that can answer that for you..
i have never seen stabil has any kind of miracle additive for storage.
maybe i never gave it a chance....

[ddeboer]

A friend of mine does the following to winterize his bike:

-drain tank,blow dry, keep filler cap off to allow tank to remain dry=no rust
-drain carbs, blow out, put back on bike, keep empty
-remove plugs, put 1 tbsp of oil in, replace plugs
-fill engine oil to top of crankcase

During the winter: spin rear wheel (by hand) a few rotations every week or 2. He claims this keeps everything lubricated, carbs clean,tank rust free. The only thing he says is that when starting the bike in the spring, the carb seals can leak for a short amount of time. He claims the leaks go away shortly when they are rehydrated.

[tom203]

[QUOTE=ddeboer;1276771]A friend of mine does the following to winterize his bike:

-drain tank,blow dry, keep filler cap off to allow tank to remain dry=no rust
-drain carbs, blow out, put back on bike, keep empty
-remove plugs, put 1 tbsp of oil in, replace plugs
-fill engine oil to top of crankcase

Leave gas cap off all winter? I hope he has a clean room!
Remove carbs? Ok, for a twin- too much work for me!
Remove plugs and add oil makes sense!
Fill oil to top of crankcase? does stuff really need to be submerged?

[Steve]

Blower, I understand what you are saying but should I still put some Stabil in or should I do something else if I want to continue riding?

there's others that can answer that for you..
i have never seen stabil has any kind of miracle additive for storage.
maybe i never gave it a chance....

I have used Stabil for many years with good results. Not sure if my double-dosing it was helping it any, but that's what I have done for any long-term hibernation. My snowblower will sit for 9 or 10 months at a time, but fires up on the first pull every time. My lawn mower also will sit while the snowblower is being exercised. It also fires quickly.

The only bike I have winterized so far is my wife's bike. Mine tends to get fresh gas run through it at regular intervals, so winterizing would be pointless.

If you have Stabil (or any other stabilizer) in the gas, there is no problem riding with it in there, just be sure to refresh the mixture when you top off the tank after your mid-winter ride.

.

[raistian77]

I have used Stabil for many years with good results. Not sure if my double-dosing it was helping it any, but that's what I have done for any long-term hibernation. My snowblower will sit for 9 or 10 months at a time, but fires up on the first pull every time. My lawn mower also will sit while the snowblower is being exercised. It also fires quickly.

The only bike I have winterized so far is my wife's bike. Mine tends to get fresh gas run through it at regular intervals, so winterizing would be pointless.

If you have Stabil (or any other stabilizer) in the gas, there is no problem riding with it in there, just be sure to refresh the mixture when you top off the tank after your mid-winter ride.

.

Steve, I am switching to the marine stabil (seems to work better). I would advise draining the tank and carbs except I cant think of any good way to keep the tank from rusting. But, if I were to advise leaving gas in it, I would say to fill the tank all the way. a half full tank would be a rust haven.

[Gregory]

Old thread, but I am curious.

My generators and other small engines that have fuel shut offs always start and run fine after very long periods of storage, providing that I turn the shutoff valve to "off" and run them till they starve for fuel.

I wonder if an easier way to drain the carbs may be to just run them till dry, and add StarTron to the full tank?

On my 78gs1000 there is no off for the petcock, so I was wondering if I could just unplug the vacuum line and run it till it runs out of fuel?