V&H header GS1100E bottom header tubes smashed

[Big T]

I found a solid knob (like for a gear shift) with a hole in it and used a length of threaded rod to force it up the pipe from the collector

This will go around the curve, but not expand the pipe as well

[81gs1100]

Sounds like way more work then filling with water and sticking in the freezer. which is how we straightened 2-stroke chambers after we resized for different TQ curves. Works great in south dakota, bend and mash the pipe, fill with water, toss in snow drift, have some beers, check on in a few hours. just dont do shots and forget about them, sometimes they split. Don't cap the ends too tight.

[SVSooke]

I was going to try the freezer method,pipe would not fit in my small freezerNo snow banks here either so I'm SOL that way.
I like Texasgs's tool so I'm giving it a shot.I will post pictures when I get it.

[Texasgs]

re

Water will expand when it freezes, but it will indiscriminately expand everywhere, in the dented area, and in the undamaged tube. Water will expand more in the areas where there is more water, and that is where you dont want it to expand, it just wont work for this. And shifter knobs, I got a good chuckle out of that. Not only are you going to have to find the right size and drive it in, but you have to get it back out. Even a threaded steel ball will tend to snap off when you are extracting it especially if you pushed it around a corner a bit. These hard steel welded balls on the mild steel rod make the repairs without any problems. I have used the same tool on 5 headers now and it is still going strong.

I was going to try the freezer method,pipe would not fit in my small freezerNo snow banks here either so I'm SOL that way.
I like Texasgs's tool so I'm giving it a shot.I will post pictures when I get it.

[SVSooke]

Well i got Texasgs's tool today.No way it will wok on the pipe with the crease way up the pipe.Here's what I got:

Welds may not be pretty but they are strong.

Got it in a good place for no movement,over a bit against the other framing pieceTried to hammer the ball in but the welds where to tight.Ground them down with my knock off Dremel,used the flex shaft that it came with.Once past those it was no problem to get it down the pipe.
This is how they looked after:

Getting it out past the welds was a bit of a tugging matchOverall I'm very happy with the way it worked.As advertised it opens the pipes so they can flow.Will not remove the scraps.Did a bit of filing to get rid of some of that:

Not going to look like new but way better than they where!

[Billy Ricks]

I need to do this to a stainless Yosh Duplex I had on my bike. Nice work.

[madjack57754]

I've welded an old 630 drive chain to a bearing and pulled the the bearing through. Same idea, just pulling instead of pushing. Heated the pipe and used a body hammer to help reshape the collapsed areas as the bearing passes through.

[Smurf]

Pipe Tool

Hey TexasGS,

Do you have any of your exhaust pipe dent repair tools available? If so, how much with shipping to 18036 (Eastern PA).

[Smurf]

Texasgs,

Payment sent via Paypal. Can't wait to use my new pipe dent repair tool!

[Normk]

If you know an auto body technician, an alternative can be to have them use a dent puller which welds "nails" to the area and uses various lever and slide hammer adapters to pull.

Depending on your facilities and expertise, this may be as viable as any of the other methods suggested. Once completed the "nails" are ground flush.

Unispotter is the common make but there are others: http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=2SW

Tack welding to the area can accomplish the same end but is more difficult to accomplish.