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Trouble removing Float Assembly

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    #16
    You can use sidecutters (wire cutters) (if they're nice and sharp) underneath the head of the pin. You're not trying to cut the pin, just to use the tapered edges of the cutters as wedges that will pull the pin perhaps a millimeter outward. The backside of the cutters will be pressing only on the pin tower, exactly where you want the force -- not transmitted down to the carb body which can break the tower.

    Once it's out by a millimeter or so, you can continue the progress with the blade of a nice sharp screwdriver & twisting a bit to force outward on the edge of the pin head, just like with the cutters.
    and God said, "Let there be air compressors!"
    __________________________________________________ ______________________
    2009 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom, 2004 HondaPotamus sigpic Git'cha O-ring Kits Here!

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      #17


      So as you can see...the head is almost flush with the tower. I have a pair of sharp wire cutters...but they can get no purchase on the sides of the pin.

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        #18
        Free, at last

        HalcyonGT....This has turned into a 6 month project for you but going about it slowly and carefully is definitely a good idea!

        (I just got 4 float pins free on another extra set of carbs and it's always a relief.)
        1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

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          #19
          Originally posted by chuckycheese View Post
          HalcyonGT....This has turned into a 6 month project for you but going about it slowly and carefully is definitely a good idea!

          (I just got 4 float pins free on another extra set of carbs and it's always a relief.)
          Well, I originally was gonna sell her off...but I decided to begin a cafe project. Its been fun tinkering and discovering this awesome machine. But some of the more critical components having sat untouched for almost 30yrs is beginning to test my patience!

          Anyhow...as I write this I'm still pounding one end; while hoping to get a grip on the pinhead on the other side. I've got glorious plans for this bike. One jammed/stuck pin isn't going to stop those plans.

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            #20
            Great!!

            Originally posted by HalcyonGT View Post
            Well, I originally was gonna sell her off...but I decided to begin a cafe project. Its been fun tinkering and discovering this awesome machine. But some of the more critical components having sat untouched for almost 30yrs is beginning to test my patience!

            Anyhow...as I write this I'm still pounding one end; while hoping to get a grip on the pinhead on the other side. I've got glorious plans for this bike. One jammed/stuck pin isn't going to stop those plans.
            I say, most definitely, good for you!! Just be careful with those pins...they will come out. One of the worst mistakes you can make is using a punch that threatens the side of the post; in that respect, you're much better off with a nail. Don't punch it over and over...get it centered on the pin and give it a firm (but not really hard) pop.

            Last edited by chuckycheese; 03-28-2011, 11:19 AM.
            1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

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              #21
              Am now thoroughly convinced this is the pin from the 9th level of Hell itself! It hasn't budged a single millimeter despite me banging on it for two weeks straight. Heating it...nothing. Gripping with wire cutters...nada. I could be riding...instead I'm locked in battle with a pin.

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                #22
                On my bike is looks as if the pins ends are marred and would need to be grinded off to remove the pin...

                Anybodyelse has this issue?

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                  #23
                  Why not just start a new thread?
                  Anyway, perhaps this will help you...

                  A procedure that a lot of people seem to mess up and break one or both of the float pivot stems.Using a spring-loaded punch is the technic that I use both to...


                  Eric

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by 7981GS View Post
                    Why not just start a new thread?
                    Anyway, perhaps this will help you...

                    A procedure that a lot of people seem to mess up and break one or both of the float pivot stems.Using a spring-loaded punch is the technic that I use both to...


                    Eric

                    Thank for the link.

                    I didnt start a new thread because my issue is relevant to this thread - removing the floats.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by jfman View Post
                      Thank for the link.

                      I didnt start a new thread because my issue is relevant to this thread - removing the floats.
                      Read though the carb rebuild tutorial linked in my signature, that should help you.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                        #26
                        I've had to file the marred end until it's smooth enough to slide through.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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