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Exhaust gaskets at the head reusable?

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    Exhaust gaskets at the head reusable?

    I was finally able to get my new-to-me 1000G going for a short ride down the driveway. I noticed an exhaust leak. Turns out one of the bolts that holds the exhaust pipes into the head is missing (and stripped). I'm going to repair it with a heli-coil today. My question is, are the gaskets/packings between the pipe and the head reusable? Don't really want to wait a week or so to get them mail order (no bike shops around me).

    Thanks.

    #2
    Try it, they usually seal. At least for a while. If you use nuts and studs with anti seize compound on them, it is easy enough to replace the gasket later if it leaks.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      Order the gaskets. They're crush gaskets and may not seal well the second time around.

      I'd say if ya have another bike to ride wait till they come in. If not you'll just wanna re-do it again when ya get em. The less ya have to do and re-do with those bolts the better.
      If it were me I'd install some studs while you're there. Lots less wear on those threads.
      sigpic

      82 GS850
      78 GS1000
      04 HD Fatboy

      ...............................____
      .................________-|___\____
      ..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|

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        #4
        Thanks. I like to do things for the long run, so I'll pick up some studs while I'm at it. I take it as reduced head flange type nut would work best here?

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          #5
          Flange nuts are good, studs and copper exhaust stud nuts from BMW cars work very well and are cheap. 8mm x 1.25, they don't corrode, and they are locknuts. Good stuff

          There is also a similar stud from Subaru for their exhaust manifolds which has an Allen head in the end of the stud, it's handy to keep the stud from bottoming in the hole as you tighten the nut, which weakens the threads.
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

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            #6
            I was going to ask about the nuts. It occurred to me after I posted that when I did work on my other air-cooled engine many years ago, the trick was to use a brass nut on the manifold stud since the studs had a bad habit of breaking off.

            I'll do some shopping & post here what I find for the next guy.

            Thanks.
            Last edited by Guest; 09-25-2010, 01:15 PM.

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              #7
              For reference, the OEM bolt is 8mm x 1.25 pitch x about 50mm long (with the head). The hex is 12mm, and the lock washer under it is about 14mm.

              Results:

              Set of 16 BMW studs (unknown thread size & length) and copper nuts, $35. Studs have internal 3mm hex for installation.




              8mm x 1.25 x 50mm long stainless studs with hex for install, $3.75 ea /$30 for 8
              8mm copper plated lock nut, $1.95 ea / $15.60 for 8
              Total cost for 8 each of both (plus shipping) $45.60. This place also sells on ebay & their shipping is listed as $10.




              8mm x 1.25 2" long (51.4mm) studs and 8mm copper nuts $1 each, total cost $16 plus shipping.


              Searched ebay, found a listing from seller goner19 titled "bmw 2002 / 318i M10 engine exhaust manifold sutd / nuts". It is a set of 8 studs & nuts for $22 plus $4.90 shipping. Studs use allen key to install. Unknown thread size & stud length.

              Seller 53ragtop has a set of 8 VW copper nuts (unknown thread size) for $6.95 plus $11.23 shipping.

              McMaster-Carr sells 8mm x 1.25 x 50mm studs in black for 56 cents each, 8mm black lock washers are $2.89 for 100, and stainless 12mm (hex size) nuts are $3.97 for a pack of 10. They don't sell copper nuts. These studs do not have a hex to install them. Total cost would be $11.34 plus shipping (they're really reasonable).

              ARP 57mm 8mm x 1.25 studs, nuts, and washers set of 8 $65.60 plus $10.95 shipping. Stud has hex for install.
              Last edited by Guest; 09-25-2010, 01:17 PM.

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                #8
                The nuts are .40 ea here:



                They used to be .25ea a few years ago.
                Studs are probably cheaper at Subaru, cheaper yet at any local metric fastener supply place. They probably have a bag of nuts for a buck or two.

                The main thing is not to use bolts which wear out the threads in the head, use studs instead, use anti seize, and do not bottom out the studs in the hole.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

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                  #9
                  Looks like they play the GM Parts Direct game- super low parts price, then they double or triple the shipping. I put 8 nuts in my cart & it said $14 to send them via USPS Priority Mail ($5.35 flat rate last time I mailed a small item). Same cost for 1 as for 8. I know there are handling costs with running a business, but that's rather high. I see they have free UPS ground on orders over $50, so it's one of those small orders not being cost-effective things.

                  I shopped the same thing at Pelican Parts (been a while since I bought any BMW parts, but I recall shopping there), and the nuts are 50 cents with $5.50 USPS.

                  I've done a lot of looking at Subaru parts (OEM and aftermarket) and can't find an applicable stud- for OEM, you really need a year & make. I tried several models from 1990-2009 and didn't find any listings.

                  The BMW seller on ebay is going to check with his supplier as to if he can get what I need.

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                    #10
                    I've reused them many times over except for the cheap ones that unravel.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                      #11
                      I thought I had done well when we stopped by Advance Auto after church today. I found a set of 10 56mm 8mmx1.25 studs. they even had a hex portion on the end for installation. Turns out the studs need to be much longer than 50mm. When I had one of the 56mm ones seated, the hex end was even with the pipe flange- no room for a nut much less a washer. I estimate they need to be at least 60mm, probably 65mm for a good fit.

                      The worst news was after picking up a 21/64 bit, I found something was broken off in the hole. I got in maybe 3/8 of an inch and it was like drilling through hardened steel. I can see what looks like maybe a drill bit (much smaller than a bolt or extractor) in the hole. I hit it with several smaller bits but made zero headway. I have the hole deep enough to where I could grind down the end of the Helicoil tap and partially thread it. The insert went in about 85% of the way. I'm letting the thread locker set up and will see how it goes, but this more than likely will require replacing the head to do it right.

                      Being ever thankful (today's sermon BTW), I see this as a chance to make a stealth 1100. An 82 up motor should bolt right in, shouldn't it?

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                        #12
                        Sorry you are having such a hard time with this project but please keep going. After you find the proper length studs, and the cheapest price, please post the info here so I can bogart some studs for myself after all your hard work. You're a good man....
                        Ed

                        To measure is to know.

                        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                          #13
                          Will do. I found some generic 65mm ones here for $2.13 each.

                          McMaster has some 65mm ones here (equal 20mm threaded each end) for $2.49 each, and some 65mm black oxide ones here for $2.42 each.

                          ARP goes to 57mm, which will be too short.

                          I think some of the unequal length threaded ones may work, and shorter, since they don't thread all the way in. Since I have it apart, I'll try & get a depth measurement later tonight.

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                            #14
                            Shopper, any update? Inquiring minds want to know.

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                              #15
                              My head is off the bike to be repaired. I won't have an update for a couple of weeks.

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