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What is the trick?

  • Thread starter Thread starter jwhelan65
  • Start date Start date
J

jwhelan65

Guest
I have tried everyway I can think of to line up the exhaust boots, carbs and airbox....am I retarded?

IMG_3167.jpg


There is no way of getting the boots squeezed in there..
 
I generally:
Push the intake boots on the head, but don't tighten the clamps.

Push the airbox (with boots on) back as far as you can.
​
Squeeze the carb rack between them, angling the airbox side up & into the boots.

Align the intake boots to fit squarely into the carb intake by rotating the intake boots until they are "square" to the carbs.

Push the rack into the intake boots. (sometimes I use a 2x3 to lever them forward.

Pop a cold one & envision smacking that a-hole jap engineer who designed that carb fit-up.
​
 
There are 2 intake boots angled to the left that go on the left side sitting on the bike and 2 angled to the right that go on the right side. I have no idea what youre talking about in 'exhaust ". I put the manifold boots on the engine and slide the carbs in after taking the bolts out of the airbox & battery box. If your boots are hard you need new ones. Put the cables on when the carbs are half way in or youll regret it. Leave all the clamps way loose and pushed in out of the way until the carbs are on. It can be a PIA !
 
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Looks like the dread two part GS 1100E air intake system?
It doesn't fit, it's near impossible to install.
Bend the heck out of the boots, smash the carbs in there, cuss a lot, try a much bigger hammer, hurt yourself repeatedly, and give up and go with pods.
It really is hard, there's no easy way on that model.
I just sold the bike and went back to the two valve stuff.
Actually I'm kidding, it can be done if you are stubborn enough:

Boots on the head first, put the airbox loosely in place, (no bolts so it can move around in there), lube the boots on both ends with some silicone spray or something, then pull the airbox back and force the carburetors in between. To make it worse, you really have to hook up the throttle cable and the fuel hose first.

With anything other than new flexible boots on both the airbox and the head, it's really close to impossible.

Good luck!
 
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I sometimes spray some silicone around the boots to help them along.

I position the carb rack with the intake side lower than the front intake boots, then push the airbox end up into the airbox boots - that should then get the rack level & ready to get pushed into the front boots.

Make sure you remove the airbox mounting screws so it can move back some...

good luck.
 
The 1000's where the same way. Back in the day when I was a newbie GS'er, I was trying to take the carbs off the bike. I was at it for a good hour and a half. I could move them, I could twist them but couldn't get them out..
A friend comes over and the conversation goes like this:
"What are you doing?"
"Trying to get these !@#$%^&,, carbs out!", "you want a beer?"
"Yeah" he says
I turn and walk 3 steps to the fridge, grab his beer, turn around, hand him his beer and he hands me my carbs.
"How the ^&*() did you do that!!!!?"
And he says, "You have to pretend it's somebody else's motorcycle"
That advice has served me well on many occasions.
Rick
 
I just had to chuckle when I read this thread (no offense intended).
My GS began training me on this process last fall, and finally concluded this summer. It was such a joyous experience.
Best of luck.
BTW, my final solution was to install new airbox boots (now very supple) and new carb boots (the ones on the head) liberally grease all boots (I used silicone grease a.k.a. plumber's grease, and then follow the instructions previously posted. The last install (with all new boots) went pretty smoothly. But things were still very tight in there.
 
I ran into this with the Katana project. It took me a few days, lots of cussing and finally,pleas for help to the assembled multitude. As mentioned they are marked 2 for the left and 2 for the right. Once they are on they will align themselves so the carb throats will fit in ( with a little persuasion).

To help them in, if the boots are getting old and hard, I use an electric paint stripper gun to heat them up and soften them. As Hikermike suggests a shot of silicone spray (or WD40) helps too. A chunk of 2'x4' as a lever is also a great idea to ensure they pop right in.

As also suggested a cold brown pop to celebrate is also highly recommend:D.

Give it another go once you are thoroughly rested and I'm sure you'll find the Eureka moment and you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.

Good luck.

Spyug
 
Told ya! Well done! I had a brown pop or 2 for you last night in anticipation of your good news:D
Easy enough when you get it figured wasn't it.

Now get out there and get some riding in!

Cheers,
spyug
 
spyug said:
Told ya! Well done! I had a brown pop or 2 for you last night in anticipation of your good news:D
Easy enough when you get it figured wasn't it.

Now get out there and get some riding in!

Cheers,
spyug
Click to expand...

I soaked the rubber air intake boots in hot soapy water overnight, made all the difference, thanks again for your help..!

Joe
 
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