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    Custom exhaust?

    I put my GS1000 on the track for the first time at the Barber Vintage Festival AHRMA races last weekend. It was lots of fun, but I've got a lot to do over the winter to make it more competitive.

    One of the issues is that the V&H 4:1 hits the tarmac in hard right hand turns. This is due to the stock suspension and 18" front wheel. I have Traxxion front springs and emulators on order which should help a lot, but it got me thinking that I'd like to fabricate my own exhaust and do a 4:2 with the headers tucked up neatly below the engine cases instead of "bundled" beneath the motor (or at least have the four pipes arrayed side by side under the motor).

    Does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this? I can cut and weld, but not bend the pipe (other than with a torch which isn't very accurate), so I'm limited to what I can do. If I can source the correct tubing, I can probably find someone to bend what I need and do the rest myself. But then there are the mufflers and baffles that would have to be made...

    Much obliged for any ideas!
    Rick

    #2
    Originally posted by wera racer View Post
    I put my GS1000 on the track for the first time at the Barber Vintage Festival AHRMA races last weekend. It was lots of fun, but I've got a lot to do over the winter to make it more competitive.

    One of the issues is that the V&H 4:1 hits the tarmac in hard right hand turns. This is due to the stock suspension and 18" front wheel. I have Traxxion front springs and emulators on order which should help a lot, but it got me thinking that I'd like to fabricate my own exhaust and do a 4:2 with the headers tucked up neatly below the engine cases instead of "bundled" beneath the motor (or at least have the four pipes arrayed side by side under the motor).

    Does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this? I can cut and weld, but not bend the pipe (other than with a torch which isn't very accurate), so I'm limited to what I can do. If I can source the correct tubing, I can probably find someone to bend what I need and do the rest myself. But then there are the mufflers and baffles that would have to be made...

    Much obliged for any ideas!
    Rick
    If you correct your F suspension you will likely not have a problem. Raising the rear about 1" helps as well.

    If I was going to change the exhaust for something with more ground clearance the 4:2:1 is best and also helps on mid range torque.

    For racing you probably want to keep 4:1 for the top end increase. I would still so straighten up the suspension and keep the V&H. However if you do run across an underbelly exhaust like a Yoshi race that will help as it doesn't stick out to the right hand side. I sold two of them they have better turning clearance than a V&H.





    ****SOLD****

    Yes folks this is the one, a complete big tubed (down pipes OD is 1 5/8", 2.3" ID collector; street pipes are 1 7/16" OD) race pipe with a free flowing period correct Yoshi can and the higly desireable Red and Black early 80's badge (I like them the best ).

    $250 delivered conus.

    This pipe requires you lose the center stand and remove the pipe to change the oil.

    It is not too bad though once the bolts are off the head, there is only one bolt holding the mid pipe to the passenger peg. This is the pipe that came on my bike which I have now replaced with a stainless 4:2:1 Yoshi (and it cost me a pretty penny)

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh7_tgrMBIM&NR=1

    I need to say now this pipe is by no means perfect, in fact I will even say it had to be restored to be usable for any amount of time. With reasonable maintenance this pipe should last 5 or more years (dont ride in the salt slush in Ohio though)


    OK here are some high res pictures. There are two pipes in the picture Set A (the nice ones on the left) and B(the ones for sale here on the right)
    The ones on the left are spoken for



    Here is a close up of the B pipe from above. There is nothing showing except a little pocking on tube #2



    This is the can; I restored the original label with engine enamel paint and baked it a t400 degF



    After sand blasting the pipe twice while trying to get the high heat Por 15 exhaust paint to stick, it did develop some pin holes in the lower portion. I thought it was a waste, but then tried my hand at welding up the pin holes. By slightly depressing (with a hammer) the area around the pin holes and then working toward them with a flux core wire feed Harbor Fright machine, I could pool enough to cover up and add extra material. After alot of grinding and flap disk sanding, I got the pipe to what it looks like now. Not perfect, but it looks much better than the whole time I had it on my bike and now there is no fear of it rusting out. There is no rust on this pipe (outside at least) as it was completely sandblasted twice.



    There are more photos in my photo bucket (I tried to capture the various imprefections but on a whole everything you see from above is nice, save for the very tip of of the back side of the can.

    http://s449.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/Yoshi_Pipes/

    Disclaimer these are nearly 30 year old mild steel pipes, on the other hand they have not been made for more than 25 years so they are very hard to find and then they are usually crushed in. This set is not perfect, but is a pretty good value if you take care of them (stay out of the salt slush and keep the paint in good shape)

    Picture of the bottom of the pipe which is really the worst. You can see a bit of the road rash just at the end of the can.

    Comment


      #3
      Hindle was one of the brands of choice for many superbikes racers back in the early '80s. I remember reading somewhere that they will still make a system for the older bikes. Maybe worth contacting them but be prepared to give them lots of money. Maybe some of the folks here can cough up an old Yosh or Bassani race exhaust. I know there are some of those around. Unfortunately any pipe I've ever seen that is street rated has had right hand clearance issues. If you're going to build your own, find a way to compress the suspension front and back with the bike on a work bench (a trailer also works good) to check the ground clearance and scrape points. I think you'll be surprised how little room there is in there. Maybe you can build something from the existing collector back, like a different mid pipe and can. Good luck with your project.


      EDIT: Jim, I guess I don't type fast enough.
      Last edited by Sandy; 10-12-2010, 05:37 PM.
      '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/

      Comment


        #4
        I would trade my Yosh for one of these.....



        Seen a few local racers using the Yosh with the baffle removed. About as much clearance as you can get on a 4:1 with one of these Yosh pipes.






        Dan
        1980 GS1000G - Sold
        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

        Comment


          #5
          Many thanks, guys, I'm on the hunt.

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