Carb boots...

[Seanie]

Hi all,
How often should carb boots be replaced? After being on the bike so long....or do they ever need replacing (unless they tear)?

And where is the best place to buy them new?

Thanks

[hampshirehog]

They don't need replacing unless they leak air (or are about to...). Having said that, if you're pulling the carbs on and off regularly new, softer rubber boots, make the job a lot easier (if yours have gone hard).

Robinsons is probably the best place for you to buy them though worth checking the prices against the US sellers.

[Bladerunner]

There are millions of variables that will affect the condition of the carb/intake boots. Heat, vibration, humidity, miles, exposure to UV light, heat cycles, chemicals, freeze/thaw, fuel/additives, etc., etc., etcetera make the guessing of when to replace the carb boots virtually impossible.

Are they pliable to the touch? Can you squeeze them with your fingers? Do they have any visable cracks inside or out? Are they bleeding unfiltered air into the intake stream?

The rubber intake boots are not all that expensive, but removing and replacing the carbs to do a swap with new parts is a PITA if you are still using the original airbox. For piece of mind, order and replace them during the winter. It will be one less thing to worry about next year when the riding season renews.

My bike is now 32 years old. The original rubber carb boots look great, and are pliable, but I will be replacing them this winter simply because at 32 years old, they are a liability that I don't need.

I got mine at: www.bikebandit.com

[raistian77]

My number 3 boot popped off after getting on the bike to get around an idiot cager. They looked great but the inside where they are bonded was brittle and broken. If you have the money change em, wish I had now as I have to borrow the wifes van to get to and from work, as I wait for mine to come in.
1979 gs850g Got mine at G&S Suzuki 25 a boot, .97 for the O ring and 2.32 for the clamp. bike bandit is 35 a boot, 1.31 per O ring and 3.15 for the clamp

[850 Combat]

The rubber intake boots are not all that expensive, but removing and replacing the carbs to do a swap with new parts is a PITA if you are still using the original airbox.
I got mine at: www.bikebandit.com

They are pushing a hundred dollars a set. Thats expensive in my book. Plus O rings, plus new stainless Allens and washers and freight probably something like $120 bucks.

[Seanie]

Thanks for the help lads,

Im lucky enough so, as mine are soft to squeeze, and seem in good shape over-all.
The reason I was asking is that I notice one of them had moved slightly from the carb side and had a bulge in it at the bottom side, and was hissing ever so slightly.

I loosen both clamps, fixed it on right (no tears in it) and installed clamps again, started bike an no problems or hissing/leaks.

I gave a turn to the other clamps while I was at it too.

I dont think I will replace them unless I have to..If it aint broken- and I could think of better things to spend my cash on, (had checked bikebandit) + still need to do those brake lines done .

Braided hoses the end of this month is my next mini project!

All the best
Seanie

[raistian77]

They are pushing a hundred dollars a set. Thats expensive in my book. Plus O rings, plus new stainless Allens and washers and freight probably something like $120 bucks.

not expensive compared to burned valves from running to lean.
Worth every single penny a lean running engine smokes rings and valves and will cause you to have to preform a rebuild. Plus they last 30 YEARS, do it once and never have to do it again.

Take them off and look at the inside edge if you see cracks, throw them out!!! Mine looked great soft and pliable, but where they bond to the metal they were shot I was able to seperate them from the metal plate with almost no force.



Pliable as heck, but was still bad


Ahhhh the bonding is comming off allowing air to be sucked around the metal plate



These cracks are evidence the rubber is bad from 30 years worth of heat/cool cycles


number 3 (you can see where the rubber has been unbonded for a LONG time.

Your valves and mixture MUST be right, letting the engine run hot just to save money is gonna bite you in the rear in the long run.