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    turning air screw

    I noticed that adjusting my pilot air screw on my 4th cylinder carb doesn't effect engine idle. I did more than 1 full turn either way and nothing happened. why not? I turn #2 and #3 and it has an effect. Sometimes #1 has an effect, but not as quick.
    Why would this be?

    #2
    One turn may no be enough if it's way out to start with. have a look at the carb sticky to see the standard settings and tune from there.

    Either that or your synch is way our or you have a blocked pilot jet.
    79 GS1000S
    79 GS1000S (another one)
    80 GSX750
    80 GS550
    80 CB650 cafe racer
    75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
    75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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      #3
      You may have broken the tip of the screw off in the carb body.
      Larry D
      1980 GS450S
      1981 GS450S
      2003 Heritage Softtail

      Comment


        #4
        What year?
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
          What year?
          1978C. I just dipped, cleaned and re-assembled the carbs.
          The needles were clean, and not broken. The air screw isn't sharp
          at the end anyways right?
          I did a bench sync from Bikecliff's VM rebuild guide.
          Its poping a bit, backfired once, bogs when I open the throttle, then catches. Also, doesn't reach over 80mph...??? The powerband is not
          consistent all the way up

          Comment


            #6
            Valves adjusted?
            Carbs sync'ed?
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #7
              Airbox or pods?
              Stock jetting?
              sigpic

              82 GS850
              78 GS1000
              04 HD Fatboy

              ...............................____
              .................________-|___\____
              ..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|

              Comment


                #8
                Air box, weatherstripped and sealed. sprayed for leaks, none with the boots or carb/air box mating surface. new carb boots n' orings too. valve clearances are in spec, however the only thing I haven't done is a good sync. I've tried to bench sync them, and tune the fuel and air screws. I notice a slight difference when I mess with the screws.
                Power is just not all the way there. I'm going to re-check timing as well.
                Plugs are grey on the outside cylinders, and a little darker on the inside.
                When I open the throttle (quickly but not super fast) it bogs bogs bogs, until i let up. If I don't let up it'll bog all the way down and shut off.


                if its running lean, do I screw OUT the pilot fuel screw or screw IN the pilot air screw? (vice versa for rich)

                this is been like that battle from 300 or lord of the rings.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by goggleboy View Post
                  if its running lean, do I screw OUT the pilot fuel screw or screw IN the pilot air screw? (vice versa for rich)
                  Since you have a stock set up, you should be out 7/8 turn on the fuel and 2 on the air to start

                  And, to answer your question - out is more - out on the fuel = more fuel, out on the air=more air

                  So,if you're lean, out on the fuel and in on the air

                  Wait, you have points? When were the points and condensors last changed?
                  1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                  1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                  1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                  1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                  1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                  1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                  2007 DRz 400S
                  1999 ATK 490ES
                  1994 DR 350SES

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Big T View Post

                    Wait, you have points? When were the points and condensors last changed?
                    No, dyna S electronic ignition with 3ohm dyna green coils, but that's a good question. I haven't had a chance to check the timing yet.
                    I just turned out the fuel screw about an 1/8 and turned the air screw in
                    a bit. A tad Better, but its still boggy all around. It feels okay from 2000-4500rpm then starts loose power a little bit. It as if Im holding the throttle open and it should be going faster but its not. I wish I could make noises on here and send them via forum. " bawww bawww wwahhhhhh" then it catches and rmp's climb.. but only after I have fully opened the throttle.
                    I'll be in 5th gear full throttle and it won't break 85mph , about 6000rpm

                    I rode my neighbors 74' Honda CB550 today and it made me cry how my GS
                    was slower ...I don't want to cheat on her

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Okay, but what are your screws set at???

                      Hmm, is your vacuum line hooked up - from #3 carb to the petcock?

                      Try giving it about 1/4 choke and see if the symptoms ease

                      Did you use carb kits when you rebuilt your carbs?
                      1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                      1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                      1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                      1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                      1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                      1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                      2007 DRz 400S
                      1999 ATK 490ES
                      1994 DR 350SES

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Big T View Post
                        Okay, but what are your screws set at???

                        Hmm, is your vacuum line hooked up - from #3 carb to the petcock?

                        Try giving it about 1/4 choke and see if the symptoms ease

                        Did you use carb kits when you rebuilt your carbs?
                        Yeah hose is coming from petcock to #3 carb, and no I didn't use rebuild kits. I did order orings from cycleorings, but reused stock jets and needles.

                        I tried giving it a little choke, idle went up (obviously). It made from-the-get-go bogging worse, but it seemed like on the higher side of the tach, it pulled well. I'm at a loss. the only thing I could think of is checking the timing, and actually using a sync tool.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Coud still have a clpgged pilot jet orifice. Something else is causing the top and problem though
                          Yamaha fz1 2007

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by spchips View Post
                            Coud still have a clpgged pilot jet orifice. Something else is causing the top and problem though
                            dang, I literally licked the carbs clean with dipping them and spraying them, and made sure my jets were clean.
                            Would it be a float problem? Because after all that I started it up and within a few minutes #2 carb spit out fuel from the overflow nipple for a few seconds then shut off. FFFFFF!!!!! I'm going to drop that bowl and turn it on pri and see what happens. Last time I checked, I only got 23MPG... way to low. My plugs were black. After the cleaing and adjusting, the plugs are more grey. good, but I haven't had a chance to check MPG yet. something tells me its the same

                            Comment


                              #15
                              You can't adjust carburetors that are badly out of synch. You can try, but it ain't a gonna happen. I would be willing to bet the vacuum levels on your carbs are all over the scale. Do a vacuum synch. That is step #1 in carb adjustment and tuning.
                              Until the carbs are all drawing the same volume of air, you can't adjust crap.

                              Earl
                              Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                              I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

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