Little oil package came with Points

[GabrielGoes]

so the good folks at Z1 enterprises sent me another set of points because the first one was broken literally. anyways now the two points are different form the first and they came with these orange packets which look like a type of oil... should i spread this all over the points? im guessing thats what there for|

edit: sorry i just realized this is in the carb/fuel instead of electrics

[DanTheMan]

I'll answer your question anyway. Those little packets are to lubricate the cam and cam follower on the points and the shaft. Don't put it on the points themselves, you don't want any oil on the points.

[earlfor]

so the good folks at Z1 enterprises sent me another set of points because the first one was broken literally. anyways now the two points are different form the first and they came with these orange packets which look like a type of oil... should i spread this all over the points? im guessing thats what there for|

edit: sorry i just realized this is in the carb/fuel instead of electrics

The little packet of grease/oil is supposed to be used to grease the points cam. Do not put any on the points sets. It will cause the points to burn. If you did, wipe it off the points thoroughly with alcohol or acetone.

Earl

[GabrielGoes]

thank you guys, i waited before i put them on the points lol... thanks!!

[earlfor]

thank you guys, i waited before i put them on the points lol... thanks!!

If the packet is grease, grease the points camshaft, if the packet is oil, there us usually a small felt pad/rubbing block on the points cam lobe ear that you should saturate with the oil.


Earl

[GabrielGoes]

If the packet is grease, grease the points camshaft, if the packet is oil, there us usually a small felt pad/rubbing block on the points cam lobe ear that you should saturate with the oil.


Earl

what exactly camshaft points? i put it on the points cam lobe you say with the little pad but the pad is worn down where it doesnt even touch... while were on the subject guys these points seriously ALWAYS go out of adjustment! could it be this camshaft point your talking about? ive had them tightened down like a gorilla but every time i go into them the points dont even open! and every time i feel huge loss in power..

[earlfor]

what exactly camshaft points? i put it on the points cam lobe you say with the little pad but the pad is worn down where it doesnt even touch... while were on the subject guys these points seriously ALWAYS go out of adjustment! could it be this camshaft point your talking about? ive had them tightened down like a gorilla but every time i go into them the points dont even open! and every time i feel huge loss in power..

There is a collar that slips on (is slipped on) the end of the crankshaft. That collar has a lobe on it which opens and closes the points as the crankshaft rotates. If the felt pad is worn down so it no longer can touch, a little smear of grease on the lobe will do.

What do you mean by "always" go out of adjustment. The points on my 79 750 needed adjustment about every 10-12 thousand miles. That is about average I suspect.

You shouldn't need to be resetting the points very often. In my mind, I am not sure you are doing it correctly and that may be causing the problems.

Some years ago, I answered a question about setting points and timing on my 79 750. My answer was too long for me to retype, so I will just paste a copy of my original post. Hopefully, this will help you with your problems.

Here is a copy of my answer to the question.



To adjust timing with the bike running, you need a dynamic timing light. to set the static timing (bike is NOT running) all you need is a 12 volt lightbulb and two wires so you can connect it.

Here's the procedure for setting the points. The points are located under
the round cover on the right end of the crankcase/crankshaft.

The round 6" plate that both sets of points are mounted on (breaker
plate) is held in place by three screws located at 12, 4 and 8 oclock.
Loosen the 3 screws on the breaker plate. Note that the screw at 12
oclock is in a slot. Rotate the breaker plate until the 12 oclock screw
is centered in the slot. Tighten the three screws.

We will replace the left side set of points first (located at 9 oclock
position) These are the points for cylinders 1 and 4.

Take a 19 mm wrench and rotate crankshaft until points are at widest
gap. Unscrew hold down screw on pointset and remove points. Note the
white wire that goes to the pointset and the placement of the insulator.
The insulator must be correct or the points will be grounded out and
will not work. Put the new points onto the breaker plate, set the gap to
14 thousandths, and lightly tighten the hold down screw. Install white wire.
Rotate crankshaft once again with 19mm wrench until points are at widest
gap. Check that widest gap remains at 14 thousandths. Adjust and
retighten holddown screw if needed.

Rotate crankshaft until rightside points are at widest gap (for
cylinders 2 and 3) Remove old points and install new points and set gap
at 14 thousandths. Note insulators on black wire installation. Rotate
crankshaft with 19 mm wrench again stopping at widest gap. Recheck gap
as you did with the left pointset. Adjust and retighten hold down screw
on points if needed.

THE ABOVE COVERS SETTING THE POINTS GAPS




Next is the timing:

Timing for cylinders 1 and 4 (the left set of points)....................
With 19 mm wrench, rotate crankshaft while looking through the timing
window and align the mark that looks like |F1 with the timing mark on
the engine case.
(the line (|) preceeding F1 is the mark |F1

note: some bikes will have a stationary timing mark on the engine case
and some will have a mark on a stationary timing plate that can be seen
through the timing window)

Connect a continuity lights wire lead/clip to the white wire clip on the
left pointset. Clamp continuity light probe tip to ground on the bike or
battery negative terminal.

Turn ignition switch to on (do not attempt to start bike, just switch
ignition to on)

The continuity light should be on.

Loosen the three screws on the breaker plate located at 12, 4 and 8
oclock. Rotate breaker plate until continuity light just flickers out.
Retighten the 12, 4, and 8 oclock screws on the breaker plate.

Unclip continuity lead from left pointset.



For the Right pointset
Rotate crankshaft with wrench until you see the timing mark F2| become
aligned with the stationary timing mark on the engine case.
Connect continuity light lead to black wire on right pointset.
The ignition should be switched on and the continuity light should be on.

The right pointset is mounted to a breaker half plate.
You will see that you can loosen the mounting screws on this breaker
half plate and this will allow you to move the right pointset. This will
adjust the timing without changing the points gap. When you rotated the
complete breaker plate for the left pointset to get the continuity light
to flicker out, thats what you did. You adjusted the timing on cylinders
1 and 4 without changing the gap on their pointset.
Unfortunately, the whole breaker plate being rotated moves BOTH sets of
points, so that is why you must set the left side first and that is why
the right side is mounted on its own independent half breaker plate.
SOoooooo.... Smile Loosen the breaker half plate on the right side and
rotate as needed to cause the continuity light to just flicker out.
Tighten the half plate back down when satisfied with the adjustment. Smile

Remove continuity light and HOPEFULLY, start bike.

Earl

Yes, I know this should be in the ignition electrical forum, but since it is already here, I figured why not go ahead and try to answer the question.

[motoraton]

hello guys i just got me a 1979 gs 750.it is being a long time since i had one,when i was 14,in 1996 i had that one until 2000,i have forgotten loads of thing,thanks god internet is here,i remember going around all the motorcycles shop asking questions,he he.
i will go to the point,it is quite interesting explanation about the points setting,i use to do it a bit different,setting the point so the light was going off in the F i think,that's when the sparks happen when the continuity is interrupted isn't it?
anyways i would like to try this method i understood everything.except what do you mean in sett set the gap to14 thousandth,could you explain me that

[Suzuki_Don]

When the points gap is at it's widest on the highest part of the cam on the end of the crankshaft the gap between the two contacts should be set at 14 thou. or .014" by using a feeler gauge. The .014" is used because it is the mid point between the min. and max. figures quoted in the manual which is .012" and .016".

Hope this helps.

[Big T]

Your current problem may stem from the fact that you have the wrong points.

Suzuki used two completely different manufacturers for ignition

Do you see the long side, or the end when you look at the condensors?


But, this is the best time to remind you that a Dyna S will resolve all these issues

[GabrielGoes]

haha it shows someone did a little searching atleast!