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1985 GS700e- Fuel and running questions

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    1985 GS700e- Fuel and running questions

    Hi Guys, I've got about a thousand miles on the GS so far and I've got a few questions (stock bike with a header and a Kerker white tip). First, gas mileage, so far I'm logging 27-34, any chance this will get better now that I've repacked the Kerker this morning? Runs quieter and seems to have a touch more bottom end.

    Second, what's the deal with the gas tank, it has a lower ring you can fill to but you can also put another half gallon after that, but it takes forever. I was getting 100 miles and then had to hit reserve, now (after filling it more to the top) I'm getting another 30 miles or so. What gives with this, at first I thought someone put a California tank on it but that's not likely I don't think (anythings possible though)

    When I first started riding, it had a stumble on the low end, it's gotten better after five tanks dosed with seafoam but is still there, and when I'm riding with a friend of mine (he goes too fast) and I have to hustle up it seems to get worse; it feels like the coils are getting hot and starting to flake out. On a lot of these bikes I see people who have put better coils and wires on, is there a specific kind and model number for these. I'm planning on tripping with this bike so I'd like to get it as glitch free as possible. Can I expect this bike to run great or should I invest in a jet kit, I've heard that sometimes gas mileage can get better after jetting- Ideas/Opinions?

    I have put together about four different road tests/articles on the 1983 750 and 1985 700e/es and I remember reading a low end stumble on the 700.

    I'd like to get these info sheets up here if there's any interest, I don't have a scanner though... It's a good collection.

    I'm having a great time on the new bike, the GS turns, brakes and goes like a champ. I love my Nighthawk but this bike really does work well and now the Nighthawk can come apart for some needed clutch work...

    Thanks, Rick

    #2
    Hi,

    Have you properly cleaned the carbs? This involves complete disassembly, a dip in Berryman's (or similar) chem dip for up to 24 hours, and reassembly with a set of O-rings from http://cycleorings.com. You will find a couple of maintenance lists HERE. How many of those items on the lists have you completed since you've owned the bike? Knowing the maintenance history of your bike is important in helping to troubleshoot.

    Do you know how your carbs are currently jetted? Stock jetting information can be found HERE. Read up on how to use the "highest idle method", "plug chops", the Colortune, and the Carbtune, to help tune your carbs. It's pretty well documented here in the forum and on my little website. Keep us informed.


    Thank you for your indulgence,

    BassCliff

    Comment


      #3
      Sounds like dirty carbs more than anything. I don't think a jet kit is very beneficial without pods and or a new exhaust, I could be wrong though.

      From my own experience I think it's not worth the hassle though. I think others will agree. Keep the stock jetting, just clean the carbs. Cheaper that way anyways.

      I've also never heard anything about a low end stumble. Mine carbs are horribly out of sync, yet clean. They don't stumble at all unless I go WOT at 3000 rpm. And if you think it brakes well, you need to test drive some other bikes.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Curly View Post
        Sounds like dirty carbs more than anything. I don't think a jet kit is very beneficial without pods and or a new exhaust, I could be wrong though.

        From my own experience I think it's not worth the hassle though. I think others will agree. Keep the stock jetting, just clean the carbs. Cheaper that way anyways.

        I've also never heard anything about a low end stumble. Mine carbs are horribly out of sync, yet clean. They don't stumble at all unless I go WOT at 3000 rpm. And if you think it brakes well, you need to test drive some other bikes.
        Well, I've got the exhaust already and the motor is starting to even out and loss that stumble the more I run it and the more seafoam that goes through the carbs. In 25 years the bike has not seen alot of miles (25k when I bought it two years ago) so the carbs probably are a little gummed up and those Orings on the manifolds are always a concern (I'll order a set). The plugs don't look lean but I'll know better after I pull them this winter. It will be interesting to see if the new exhaust packing gives any better mileage.

        What are you guys getting, those who have the 700cc motor?

        This is the first bike (my GPz is a work in progress) I've had with a disc in the rear and it is a joy after a lifetime of drum rear brakes (58 years of riding) though. I'm sure there are many new bikes with better but I love this one fine enough.

        Thanks, Rick

        Comment


          #5
          Honestly, Seafoam won't do much to clean out those carbs. I'd pull them and give a thorough dip for each one with new orings if you haven't already.
          Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

          1981 GS550T - My First
          1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
          2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

          Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
          Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
          and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
            Hi,

            Have you properly cleaned the carbs? This involves complete disassembly, a dip in Berryman's (or similar) chem dip for up to 24 hours, and reassembly with a set of O-rings from http://cycleorings.com. You will find a couple of maintenance lists HERE. How many of those items on the lists have you completed since you've owned the bike? Knowing the maintenance history of your bike is important in helping to troubleshoot.

            Do you know how your carbs are currently jetted? Stock jetting information can be found HERE. Read up on how to use the "highest idle method", "plug chops", the Colortune, and the Carbtune, to help tune your carbs. It's pretty well documented here in the forum and on my little website. Keep us informed.


            Thank you for your indulgence,

            BassCliff
            I have no history on this machine but I'm guessing it's had very little care. I, on the other hand, love my machinery so it will get the best here, and it will be ridden nicely (I'm not a cowboy all the time). Thank you BassCliff for all the sites you have sent my way, what a big help and I enjoy being put of this group...

            I'm sure the jets are original and I'd love to yank those carbs off and give em a dunkin but that's going to have to wait and I'll keep using the seafoam and running the bike in hopes it will clear out; it runs 95% so it's no biggy for now.

            Best Regards, Rick

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by cowboyup3371 View Post
              Honestly, Seafoam won't do much to clean out those carbs. I'd pull them and give a thorough dip for each one with new orings if you haven't already.
              I know, it's a long shot but just running the bike has helped and the seafoam can't hurt. After working for two years on this bike it's now time for house repairs and a little sailing

              Thanks cowboy

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by rkj2002 View Post
                I know, it's a long shot but just running the bike has helped and the seafoam can't hurt. After working for two years on this bike it's now time for house repairs and a little sailing

                Thanks cowboy
                I like seafoam, but it's probably done all it can for your carbs- let's face it , once those little pilot holes get plugged, nothing except the deluxe carb dip (and blowing things out) will help. Sailing? wear a jacket!
                1981 gs650L

                "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                Comment


                  #9
                  Keep in mind that reading plug is only good if you look at them directly after your trouble happens. So if you're only stumbling at mid range when you give it some gas, any higher rpms or idling will "ruin" your plug reading. Everyone else is right, seafoam won't do much, but it's understandable if you can't take the carbs off.

                  With the gallon bucket though, the dipping basket that comes with it, and a sub $10 plastic organizer box, carb cleaning can be done in 2-3 days. I dipped one carb, went to work, put the next one in, slept, put the next one in, worked, put the next one in, and done, reassembling after each one. There's two days and 4 gorgeous carbs.

                  We're almost all using the K&N jet kit, with different settings for each setup. We all have different exhaust, pods, engines, carbs, etc, etc, so our setups all change. I believe the kit comes with suggestions on what to do if you have pods, or exhaust, or both.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by rkj2002 View Post
                    Hi Guys, I've got about a thousand miles on the GS so far and I've got a few questions (stock bike with a header and a Kerker white tip). First, gas mileage, so far I'm logging 27-34, any chance this will get better now that I've repacked the Kerker this morning? Runs quieter and seems to have a touch more bottom end.


                    Better fuel mileage will depend a lot on the twist of the wrist. Running a header with stock air box MPG will drop a little. Even less MPG if you are running a header and K&N pod filters.

                    Originally posted by rkj2002 View Post
                    Second, what's the deal with the gas tank, it has a lower ring you can fill to but you can also put another half gallon after that, but it takes forever. I was getting 100 miles and then had to hit reserve, now (after filling it more to the top) I'm getting another 30 miles or so. What gives with this, at first I thought someone put a California tank on it but that's not likely I don't think (anythings possible though)
                    A California tank is easy enough to tell. A Cali tank will have a cap that sticks off the tank, the standard version has the cap that sits flush with a fold down cover for the key slot and it folds up to turn the cap to remove it. If you check the link in my signature it has the Cali tank, and also has details on many things I've done to my GS700E.

                    Originally posted by rkj2002 View Post
                    When I first started riding, it had a stumble on the low end, it's gotten better after five tanks dosed with seafoam but is still there, and when I'm riding with a friend of mine (he goes too fast) and I have to hustle up it seems to get worse; it feels like the coils are getting hot and starting to flake out. On a lot of these bikes I see people who have put better coils and wires on, is there a specific kind and model number for these. I'm planning on tripping with this bike so I'd like to get it as glitch free as possible. Can I expect this bike to run great or should I invest in a jet kit, I've heard that sometimes gas mileage can get better after jetting- Ideas/Opinions?
                    Check Z1Enterprises, they carry the Green 3 Ohm coils and aftermarket wires. The coils can be a little tricky to mount to the 700E though.

                    http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=210 Coils

                    http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=208 Wires (Black). They do cary Red wires as well.

                    On your stumbles. From what I have read, with the Kerker header and stock air box, up 1-2 sizes on the main jets if they are still the stock #122.5s depending on the filter you are using. A Stock filter, possibly going to #125s would work, a K&N replacement in the air box might want to go to #127.5s.

                    What really needs to be done regardless of filter is shimming the needles.


                    Could be the cause of your stumbles.

                    Z1 Enterprises Carries them as well, or you can source them from Radio Shack.

                    http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1933 (Shims for Needles)

                    If you have K&N filter pods with the Kerker header, best is to get a Dynojet kit for the carbs. It will come with the needles that are needed. It also comes with DJ main jets, (numbers are different than Mikuni) just follow the instructions for the set up you have.

                    Really the jet kit can be used no matter what filter set-up you have, just follow the directions. For a stock air box though, it just costs less to change the main jets out with Mikuni mains, and shim the needles.

                    http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=4055 (Jet Kit)

                    Again MPG is has a lot to do with the wrist. Headers, filters, larger jets, and shimming needles means more fuel. More wrist more fuel consumption. The best MPG will be observed during a steady throttle position while just Hwy cruising.

                    Originally posted by rkj2002 View Post
                    I have put together about four different road tests/articles on the 1983 750 and 1985 700e/es and I remember reading a low end stumble on the 700.


                    I'd like to get these info sheets up here if there's any interest, I don't have a scanner though... It's a good collection.
                    Find a scanner and post them up. We like articles.



                    Originally posted by rkj2002 View Post
                    I'm having a great time on the new bike, the GS turns, brakes and goes like a champ. I love my Nighthawk but this bike really does work well and now the Nighthawk can come apart for some needed clutch work...

                    Thanks, Rick
                    Other;
                    For your bike to be solid for road trips, best is for the valves to be in adjustment, knowing the state of the petcock fuel valve, and state of the carburetors is vital, cleaning the carbs is a sure fire way of knowing. Synchronizing the carbs would be good as well.

                    Understanding the charging system is also a good idea. If the bike is charging the battery good it wouldn't hurt to locate the R/R under the left side cover, remove, clean, a dielectric grease the connectors. Under the tank there will be the 3 connectors that come from the stator, which might need cleaning as well. Then, off the positive battery cable under the seat there is a smaller wire that has a connection that can be cleaned. I don't remember if the negitive battery cable has this or not.

                    Sounds as if your bike is running decent, minus the stumbles. No mention of idle problems. Cleaning the carbs will tell you what has been done to the carbs by the PO. The jet kit would also correct any lean issues from running the Kerker header. I would pull and disassemble the carbs to see how it is jetted or if it has adjustable needles, this would tell you if it already has a jet kit installed before purchasing one. Z1 is your neighborhood; a jet kit would be there next day I would bet.

                    Stumbles are most likely from it running a little lean with the header if the bike is still running the stock jets and carb settings.


                    E
                    Last edited by Guest; 11-24-2010, 02:21 AM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Gas MPG LOL don't think i've ever checked.....when I hit reserve and it starts to stumble I fill her up. Cleaning the carbs (Removing them) is the best way to find out where they stand (varnshed up-clogged-etc..) While you do them brake down and buy the o-ring kit for the carbs and the intakes. As for jetting, when I first got mine it had pods !! And ran like crap.. The PO did not jet them correctly. I put the stock airbox back on (OH MY What a vasiline nightmare) went one size up on the main jets and I am only running a 4-1 supertrap for the exhaust. It runs pretty darn good right now, I do and have run seafoam just for a piece of mind.

                      Your wrist and riding style is directly related to the Mpg, thats why I never even have checked.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Okay, I've had a chance to see what repacking the Kerker does to the bikes running, but first this; on start-up the bike always catches on a few cylinders and then gradually starts to fire on the others (it's probably starting on three and the fourth catches after it's running), that has stopped and it fires right away on all of them. It does take a little while to warm up (it's starting to get chilly here in new york) and I see that time being longer as the temps go down, and I'm still running the Mobile one 20-50. The motor takes the gas much better, the more I ride it. If it's the seafoam or just the mileage I don't know but it is really starting to run well. The other day I had the spousal unit on the back (she really liked the seat more than the Nighthawk and enjoyed our day out). The bike really acted great two-up even with the tall gearing so I'm thrilled at this point

                        Today was the first day I have really had it out after repacking the pipe; it starts better and idles better (settles right down to a little over a grand and is rock steady, No stumbles anywhere, even after a day of hard riding. It's much more quiet (there wasn't much left of the old packing), and I'm showing 70 miles after todays ride and the gas gauge is still a long way from half so I'm thinking the pipe is going to make a difference there too. One of the nicest things is the new low end grunt with a little more backpressure, I love this, the motor doesn't feel like it's going to fall on its face taking off in first anymore, you hardly have to touch the gas at all.

                        The bars I was making didn't really make it so I'm going with these Heli's



                        They should give me the little height and width I'm looking for, too bad they cost so much but soon, I will have the money... So, all and all the GS is shaping up and I'm getting close to it and really starting to like it.

                        I'll be putting all these articles and road tests I have on the 1983 GS750 and the 1985 GS700 up here soon. I have a friend with a scanner that said he would help.

                        Regards, and thanks for all the input, really helpful Rick

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Just averaged about 44mpg on my last 3 tanks 70% hwy, 5th gear @ 6000-7000 rpm (my speedo is broke so no idea how fast that is).

                          30% are steep hills and back roads in 3rd gear around 8000rpm

                          Hope that helps give you an idea, and I'm running pods with raised needles but stock mains... and I have a cracked header

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Yank the carbs and completely disassemble and submerge everything in carb dip. Purchase a rebuild kit for each carb including the proper jets for your Kerker. Sync them up and see what happens..

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Anyone know the correct jetting for the 1985 GS700 when using the V&H 4:1 exhaust?

                              Comment

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